George Boyle
Wedding rings in the 1800s varied in style, with different metals, gemstones, and designs available. During the Victorian era (1837-1901), rings were typically made of gold and could only be afforded by the wealthy. During the mid-Victorian period (1860-1885), silver became more popular, and different types of gold karats were introduced to the market, with rose gold being especially popular. Popular gemstones during this time included opals, crystals, emeralds, pearls, black glass, and rubies. In the late Victorian period (1890-1901), diamond rings became more common due to the diamond rush, and platinum was used for ring settings. In the Jewish tradition, wedding bands were typically made of an unbroken circle of solid gold or silver, representing an everlasting marriage. Moonstone rings also gained popularity in the 1800s due to their brilliance and simple gray-white coloration.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Gold, silver, rose gold, platinum, pearls, opals, crystals, emeralds, black glass, rubies, aquamarine, moonstones, sapphires, diamonds |
| Design | Repoussé work, chasing, hammered patterns, bezels with prongs and a closed back, interlocking bands, filigree, enamel, engravings, floral and feather motifs, geometric designs |
| Style | Similar to other Victorian jewelry, Art Deco, Edwardian |
| Gemstones | Coloured gemstones, sapphires, rubies, amethyst, garnet, chalcedony, topaz, pearls, emeralds, black opal, coral, jade, mother-of-pearl, rubies, sapphires, quartz crystals |
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What You'll Learn
Gold and gemstones
The use of gold and gemstones in wedding rings has a long history, with the tradition of exchanging wedding rings beginning in ancient Egypt. The type of gold and gemstones used in wedding rings from the 1800s was influenced by the cultural and stylistic trends of the time. During the Victorian era, which spanned from 1837 to 1901, wedding rings were often made of gold and adorned with gemstones. The discovery of diamond mines in South Africa and an influx of newly mined gold in the late 1800s made gold and diamond engagement rings more widely available.
Gold, a classic choice for jewellery, was crafted into intricate designs during the Victorian era. Repoussé work and chasing techniques were popular, creating beautiful patterns hammered into the gold. The use of gold was not limited to the band, as gemstones were often secured by gold settings. The type of gold varied, with rose gold being a popular choice during the Mid-Victorian Period (1860-1885) due to the introduction of different gold karats in the market.
Gemstones added a splash of colour and brilliance to the rings. Popular gemstones of the Mid-Victorian Period included opals, crystals, emeralds, pearls, black glass, and rubies. The choice of gemstones extended beyond the traditional, with aquamarine gaining favour during the aesthetic period of the Victorian era. Moonstone rings also rose in popularity due to their simple grey-white coloration and iridescent flashes.
The combination of gold and gemstones was not limited to the Victorian era. Art Deco rings, crafted during the Edwardian Period, featured unique combinations of floral and feather designs with abstract patterns inspired by Egyptian, Oriental, and African styles. While platinum was the primary metal used in Art Deco rings, white gold was also occasionally used. The gemstones in these rings were just as important as the artistic designs, with diamonds being the most popular choice, followed by black opal, coral, emeralds, jade, mother-of-pearl, rubies, sapphires, and quartz crystals.
The use of gold and gemstones in 1800s wedding rings was a testament to the craftsmanship and stylistic choices of the time, with each era leaving its mark on the evolution of ring designs.
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Silver and rose gold
Wedding rings in the 1800s were similar in style to other jewellery from the Victorian era, which spanned from 1837 to 1901. During this time, silver and rose gold became increasingly popular for wedding bands, alongside gold.
In the early Victorian period, from 1837 to 1860, wedding rings were bold and bright, often featuring Celtic designs or taking the form of a Victorian snake ring. Brightly coloured gemstones were also fashionable, with diamonds being quite small and cut using the rose-cut style. They were often set in clusters to form a larger ring. Before 1854, rings were usually crafted from 18-karat gold, but following this date, the manufacture of 15-karat, 12-karat, and 9/10 karat gold was legalised, making wedding rings more accessible. This marked a shift towards silver and rose gold rings, which became much more sought-after.
During the mid-Victorian period, from 1860 to 1885, silver and rose gold rings became more common. Popular gemstones included opals, crystals, emeralds, pearls, black glass, and rubies. New styles during this era featured motifs such as acorns, hearts, bees, birds, stars, and daisies.
In the late Victorian period, from 1890 to 1901, wedding rings underwent significant changes due to the diamond rush. This period saw the emergence of the solitaire diamond engagement ring. Platinum was also widely used for gemstone settings, replacing silver. Wedding rings during this time were often adorned with motifs such as stars, bows, feathers, moons, oak leaves, knots, flowers, roses, horseshoes, and birds.
While gold and silver diamond bands were precious, a ""keeper" ring was sometimes placed over the betrothal ring to prevent loss or accidental slipping. Official engagement rings became popular in the late 1800s due to the discovery of South African diamond mines and the influx of gold and diamonds.
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Aquamarine
Wedding rings in the 1800s were similar to other pieces of jewellery from the Victorian era, which spanned from 1837 to 1901. During this time, rings were made of gold and could only be afforded by the wealthy. Designs often featured repoussé work and chasing, where patterns are hammered into the metal. Some rings featured stones secured by collets, settings similar to bezels, with prongs and a closed back. From the mid-1800s, aquamarine was a favoured stone in jewellery, reaching the height of its popularity during the aesthetic period of the Victorian era.
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Moonstone
The wedding ring is a powerful symbol of everlasting love and unity, with roots in ancient Egypt. Over the centuries, the style and design of wedding rings have evolved, reflecting the cultural and artistic trends of their time. The 1800s were no exception, with rings of this period exuding simplicity and elegance. During this time, engagement rings became increasingly popular in Europe and the United States, often crafted from gold and adorned with colourful gemstones.
Despite its fragility, moonstone remains a captivating choice for engagement rings today, offering a unique and free-spirited alternative to the classic diamond. Moonstone's ethereal allure and its association with love and the moon make it a romantic option for those seeking something unconventional yet timeless. Its affordability also means a larger stone can be acquired at a lower cost compared to diamonds. However, due to its softness, a moonstone ring may require more careful storage and handling to prevent scratches and maintain its lustre over time.
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Edwardian and Art Deco styles
The Edwardian era of wedding rings lasted from 1901 to 1914. Edwardian rings often featured platinum filigree and the distinctive "cigar band" style. They were usually set with old European-cut diamonds, but sapphires and rubies were also popular. Other gems used in Edwardian rings include emeralds, topaz, tourmaline, aquamarine, and amethyst. Edwardian rings can be found in yellow gold, platinum, or sterling silver.
Art Deco wedding rings became popular in the 1920s and remained so throughout the 1930s. They are characterised by bold colours, geometric patterns, and brilliant jewels. The settings are usually platinum, white gold, or yellow gold, with a backdrop of white diamonds and brightly coloured focal gemstones. Popular gemstones included diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, black opal, coral, jade, mother-of-pearl, rubies, and quartz crystals. Triangular and hexagonal shapes were often used, and the use of very small diamonds as accent stones is characteristic of the Art Deco style.
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Frequently asked questions
Wedding rings in the 1800s were usually made of gold, silver, rose gold, or platinum.
Wedding rings in the 1800s were often designed with intricate details and engravings. They featured repoussé work and chasing, where patterns are hammered into the metal. Some rings had stones secured by collets, settings similar to bezels, with prongs and a closed back.
Popular gemstones in the 19th century included opals, crystals, emeralds, pearls, black glass, rubies, sapphires, and aquamarine.
Engagement rings became popular in the 1800s, especially in Europe and the United States. These rings often featured coloured gemstones like sapphires, rubies, amethysts, garnets, chalcedony, and topaz, as well as pearls. Moonstone rings also gained popularity due to their brilliance and illumination.
Yes, various styles of wedding rings existed in the 1800s. During the Victorian era, rings often featured intricate designs with hammered patterns. In the Mid-Victorian Period (1860-1885), silver was more commonly used, and rose gold rings became popular. In the Late Victorian Period (1890-1901), diamond mining and the use of platinum for ring settings led to significant changes in ring styles. Art Deco rings, crafted during the Edwardian Period, featured geometric designs and linear styles, often incorporating diamonds and other gemstones.
