Deborah Chan
Wedding dresses have evolved over the years, with ancient brides wearing a variety of colours and styles depending on the region and cultural norms of the time. In ancient China, for example, a princess wore a phoenix dress and crown, while Assyrian brides wore draped white or cream garments. Medieval brides often wore rich colours and expensive fabrics such as silk, velvet and fur, with red being a popular choice to symbolise fertility. In ancient Rome, brides wore braided hairstyles and deep yellow veils, while Athenian brides wore violet and red dresses with symbolic girdles. The tradition of wearing white wedding dresses gained popularity in the Victorian era and has become a standard choice for brides in the Western world.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ancient Egyptian wedding dresses | A tunic of white linen, a long veil of beaded netting, and any jewels the bride owned |
| Ancient Roman wedding dresses | A white woven tunic called a "tunica recta" belted with an elaborate "Knot of Hercules", an orange veil, and saffron-dyed orange shoes |
| Ancient Greek wedding dresses | A chiton, a type of tunic dress made from one large piece of fabric pinned at the shoulders and belted at the waist, often made of silk or linen; red chitons represented passion |
| Ancient Chinese wedding dresses | A phoenix dress and crown, which brought good luck and strength in marriage; red gowns with a phoenix tail as a symbol of good fortune |
| Ancient Assyrian wedding dresses | Draped garments in cream or white |
| Ancient Babylonian wedding dresses | Unspecified, but likely the best clothing available |
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What You'll Learn
Ancient Greek wedding dresses
The wedding dress was a significant piece of clothing in ancient Greek culture. Ancient Greek weddings were focused on the bride's experience, and the dresses were chosen to present the bride's family in the best possible light in terms of wealth and social status.
Ancient Greek bridal dresses were colourful, rich, and varied depending on the region, climate, and available sources for textiles. They were often adorned with jewels and complex embroidery covering the whole body. The colour purple was particularly significant, as it was the same shade used to dye the robe of Aphrodite, the goddess of sexual love. Gold was also a popular colour choice in urban areas, while villages preferred red.
In addition to the decorative purpose, the symbols and colours used on the dresses carried strong symbolism. For example, pomegranates, birds, and boats were symbols of abundance and fertility, while crosses, colourful stones, and two-headed eagles were believed to protect the young bride from evil spirits.
The ancient Greek wedding ceremony consisted of three parts: the proaulia, the pre-wedding ceremony; the gamos, the actual wedding; and the epaulia, the post-wedding ceremony. The proaulia was a feast held at the bride's father's house, during which the bride made offerings to gods such as Artemis, Athena, and Aphrodite. The gamos, or actual wedding, took place at night in ancient Athens.
The ancient Greeks considered marriage a matter of public interest, intending to promote monogamy and reproduction. Marriages were usually arranged by the parents, and the woman's father or guardian gave permission for the marriage to a suitable man who could afford to marry.
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Ancient Roman wedding dresses
In ancient Rome, a wedding was about creating a solid social and economic bond between two families, with a focus on the bride's chastity and her role in creating a domestic sanctuary. The bridal attire was also an important marker of the bride's transition into marriage and matronhood.
The traditional Roman wedding dress consisted of a plain white woollen tunica recta, a white stola, and a yellow-red veil called a flammeum. The tunica recta was woven by the bride herself, showcasing her skill at weaving, and was tied with a double knot around the hips, with a belt called a zona, a symbol of virginity. The groom would be the only one to untie it in a gesture called zonam solver at the beginning of the ceremony. The stola was a sleeveless dress made of heavy fabric with many folds, ornamental shoulder pads, and a belt around the hips. It was used to cover the long tunic women wore as underwear.
The flammeum was a staple component of the bridal hairstyle in ancient Rome, symbolizing faithfulness and fertility. The bride's hair was parted with an iron spear to ward off evil and adorned with a wreath or garland of flowers and herbs, which she picked herself. Her shoes were dyed saffron yellow to match the veil.
On the morning of her wedding, a bride would take a fragranced bath in her parents' home, attended by her mother and female friends. This was meant to wash away evil influences and leave her smelling wholesome.
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Babylonian wedding dresses
The Babylonians, who inhabited the southern part of Mesopotamia, were known for their sophisticated clothing and sense of fashion. They excelled in textile manufacturing and trading, and their items were precious gifts to neighbouring royal families.
It is worth noting that the British artist Edwin Long's 1875 painting, "The Babylonian Marriage Market," depicts a group of potential brides wearing draped garments in cream or white. However, this colour scheme likely reflects Victorian ideas of purity rather than historical accuracy.
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Medieval wedding dresses
The fashion for colourful wedding dresses in medieval Western Europe is in stark contrast to the modern Western tradition of a white wedding dress, which originated with Queen Victoria in 1840. Before this, it was common for brides to wear their best dress, regardless of colour, and to continue wearing this dress after the wedding.
The wedding dress of Princess Margaret of Denmark and Queen of Scotland, who married King James III of Scotland in 1469, is a notable example of a medieval wedding dress that has survived to the present day. Known as the 'Golden Gown', it is kept in Uppsala Cathedral in Sweden. The gown is made of sumptuous gold brocade cloth with a gold content of 75%. The gold thread is used to create an elaborate pattern on a base of red silk.
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Eastern cultures' wedding dresses
The wedding dress has evolved significantly over time, reflecting the values, beliefs, and aesthetics of each era. While the UK and Western cultures have influenced the white wedding dress, Eastern cultures have their own unique traditions and styles.
In Eastern cultures, red is traditionally considered an auspicious colour for weddings, symbolising good fortune and prosperity. Chinese brides, for instance, often wear elaborate red dresses, while Indian brides wear vibrant, embroidered silk saris in various colours. Hindu brides also favour red outfits, usually made of silk. In Vietnam, traditional wedding dresses were dark blue. Similarly, during the Tang Dynasty in China, brides wore green, while grooms wore red. In Japan, brides often wear pure white kimonos, symbolising purity and maidenhood, or silk robes in various colours, depending on the dynasty and season.
In Southeast Asian cultures, brides have traditionally worn red since the Indus Valley civilisation. The wedding sari is often red and green with golden brocade, although colours vary by region, caste, and religion. Kurdish first-time brides also wear red to symbolise postcoital bleeding, while previously married Kurdish brides wear pink.
The choice of fabric and style of Eastern wedding dresses also holds significance. Silk is a popular choice in Eastern cultures, symbolising luxury and status. The use of embroidery and intricate patterns further enhances the beauty and symbolism of the dress.
While white wedding dresses became popular in Western cultures during the 19th century, symbolising purity and grace, Eastern cultures continue to embrace a diverse array of colours and styles that are steeped in cultural and symbolic significance.
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Frequently asked questions
According to Chinese folklore, a princess wore a phoenix dress and crown, which brought her good luck and strength in marriage. Even today, Chinese brides wear a striking red gown with a phoenix tail as a symbol of good fortune.
In ancient Rome, brides wore a "tunica recta", a white woven tunic belted with an elaborate "Knot of Hercules", symbolising chastity and fertility. Brides also wore an orange veil and saffron-dyed orange shoes.
In ancient Assyria, women wore draped garments in cream or white. However, this colour scheme likely has more to do with Victorian ideas of purity than any historical precedent.
Medieval brides wore wedding dresses of rich colours and expensive fabrics. Their outfits often featured silk, velvet, and fur. Brides who couldn't afford such dresses would sew their gowns from cheaper materials, attempting to replicate the elegant styles of the wealthy.
