The Art Of Crafting Wedding Rings: A Comprehensive Guide

Wedding rings can be made from a variety of materials, including metals such as gold, silver, platinum, palladium, titanium, zirconium, tungsten, and steel, as well as wood. The process of making a wedding ring typically involves selecting the desired material, cutting it to the appropriate size, and shaping it into a circle. For metal rings, this may involve casting techniques, where hot wax or metal is injected into a mould, or handmade techniques, where the metal is shaped and drilled by hand. Gemstones or diamonds can also be added to the band using a bezel setting or a claw/prong setting. Polishing and finishing are the final steps to ensure a smooth, high-quality surface.

Selecting the right materials

Metals:

Metal is the most traditional material for wedding rings, with gold, silver, platinum, and palladium being the most popular choices. When selecting a metal, it's important to consider the purity, colour, density, and malleability.

Gold:

Gold is a timeless choice for wedding rings and is often alloyed with other metals to improve its durability and achieve different colours. Yellow gold, for example, maintains the characteristic hue of pure gold, while rose gold has a hint of copper due to a slightly higher copper content. White gold, on the other hand, is often alloyed with palladium or platinum and plated with rhodium, giving it a silvery shine. The purity of gold is measured in carats, with 24-carat gold being pure gold, which is too soft for jewellery. 18-carat gold is more common for jewellery, containing 75% gold, while 14-carat gold is cheaper due to its lower gold content.

Silver:

Silver is another popular choice for wedding rings, being more affordable than other metals. Sterling silver, which is an alloy of silver and copper, is commonly used, with a minimum silver content of 92.5%. While pure silver is malleable, the addition of copper increases its hardness and makes it less likely to bend out of shape.

Platinum and Palladium:

Platinum and palladium rings are more expensive and are usually alloyed with other metals such as ruthenium, iridium, or rhodium to improve their properties. These metals often have a purity of 95% and have a weightier feel due to their higher density.

Newer Metals:

In recent times, titanium, zirconium, tungsten, and steel have gained popularity as alternative choices for wedding rings. These metals are typically more durable and less expensive than traditional options. Titanium, for instance, is lightweight and often made from aircraft-grade titanium alloyed with vanadium and aluminium. Tungsten carbide, a compound of tungsten and carbon, is known for its extreme hardness, though it can be prone to shattering. Black zirconium, created by oxidising zirconium, offers a sleek black finish and is highly scratch-resistant. Stainless steel, an alloy of iron and carbon with a minimum chromium content of 10.5%, is another resilient and affordable option.

Wood:

Wooden wedding rings are a unique alternative to traditional metal rings. When selecting wood for a ring, it's important to choose a dense and strong variety to ensure durability. Examples of suitable woods include African Padauk, which has a deep orange or reddish colour that turns warm brown over time, and Ipe, a Brazilian Walnut with a darker hue. These woods are not only aesthetically pleasing but also affordable and easy to work with.

Diamonds and Gemstones:

Diamonds and gemstones are often used as accents in wedding rings, adding a touch of sparkle and elegance. When selecting a diamond or gemstone, consider the colour, clarity, and cut to ensure it complements the overall design of the ring. The shape of the stone will also dictate the design of the claw or prong that holds it in place.

In summary, the selection of materials for a wedding ring depends on a combination of factors, including durability, cost, aesthetics, and personal taste. Whether you choose a traditional metal ring, a unique wooden ring, or a design accented with precious stones, careful consideration of the materials will ensure a beautiful and long-lasting symbol of love and commitment.

Choosing the right tools

The tools and equipment you will need to make a wedding ring will depend on the type of ring you want to make and the materials you will be using. Here is a general overview of the tools you may need for different types of rings:

For metal rings:

• A saw such as a hacksaw, scroll saw, or band saw
• A drill and drill bits of various sizes
• A hand crank extruder
• A male/female pseudo machine
• An oxy-acetylene torch
• Sanding tools such as sandpaper, a Dremel tool, or a belt sander
• A mandrel
• A machine to stretch and compact the ring
• A hammer
• A rotary tool
• A pencil tip sander
• A setter

For wooden rings:

• Wood, preferably a dense and strong type such as African Padauk or Ipe
• A saw such as a hacksaw, scroll saw, or band saw
• A Speedbor wood bit or a large diameter drill bit and an electric drill
• Sandpaper (100-120 grit) and/or a belt sander
• A Dremel tool
• A heat gun or another heat source for heat tempering
• Oil such as Tung oil, linseed oil, or another drying oil

For beaded, wire-wrapped, or crystal rings:

• Wire, preferably 16-18 gauge gold wire
• Beads, crystals, or other decorative pieces
• A ring mandrel
• Glue such as E600 jewelry-making glue

For coin rings:

• A coin made of long-lasting ring material
• Filing and sanding tools
• A drill

Keep in mind that you may also need access to a professional jeweller's workshop or equipment for certain steps in the ring-making process, especially if you are working with metals.

Shaping the metal

Choosing the Right Metal:

Start by selecting the type of metal you want to use for your ring. Popular choices include platinum, gold, silver, stainless steel, or even alternative materials like wood or coin metal. Each metal has its unique properties and requires different techniques for shaping.

Creating a Metal Strip:

Extrude or roll the chosen metal through a hand-cranked extruder to create a strip with the desired length and thickness. This process may require multiple passes to achieve the right dimensions. Remember to anneal the metal after reshaping to relieve stress and improve its workability.

Forming the Ring Shape:

Use a bending or forming technique to shape the metal strip into a circle. One method involves using a male/female forming machine, where you manually press a full cylinder into a hollow half cylinder, bending the metal into an oval shape. Repeat this process until you achieve a complete circle. Alternatively, you can use a mandrel to hammer the metal strip into a circular shape.

Soldering and Brazing:

Join the ends of the metal circle together to form a solid ring. This process typically involves soldering or brazing, depending on the metal. Heat the metal until it glows red, then apply solder or braze to create a strong joint. This step requires precision and control to avoid overheating and damaging the metal.

Sizing the Ring:

Determine the desired ring size and use a mandrel or a ring-sizing machine to stretch or compact the circle to the correct size. It is important to work gradually and check the size frequently to avoid overshooting the desired dimensions. Flip the ring periodically to ensure even sizing and prevent warping.

Sanding and Finishing:

Sand the ring to smooth out any imperfections and create a uniform surface. Use a combination of hand sanding and power sanding tools, such as a Dremel or a belt sander, to achieve the desired finish. Pay attention to the ring's interior and exterior surfaces, ensuring they are free of burrs and sharp edges. Finish by beveling the inside and outside edges for a comfortable fit.

Optional Heat Treatment:

Consider heat-treating the ring to strengthen the metal and create a unique appearance. Use a heat gun or another heat source to bring the ring to a smoking temperature. Be cautious, as excessive heat can make the metal brittle. Once the desired colour or effect is achieved, dip the ring in oil to cool and prevent overheating.

Final Sanding and Polishing:

Perform a final sanding pass to smooth out any irregularities introduced during the heat treatment. Use fine-grit sandpaper to create a smooth, even surface. Follow this by polishing the ring to a desired finish, such as matte, brushed, or polished. You can use polishing compounds and soft cloths to achieve the desired luster.

Adding stones

Durability

It is important to consider the durability of the stone, as it will be worn every day and will be subject to wear and tear. Stones that are rated 8 or above on the Mohs hardness scale are generally recommended for wedding rings, as they are more resistant to scratches and chips. Some examples of durable stones include sapphires, rubies, and diamonds.

Colour and Meaning

The colour of the stone can be chosen based on personal preference, birthstones, or the meaning associated with the colour. For example, a red ruby engagement ring can symbolise love and passion, while a blue sapphire can signify loyalty. Couples may also choose a stone with a colour that holds a special meaning for them, such as the colour of the sky or the sea.

Cost

The cost of the stone is an important consideration, as some stones can be very expensive. Diamonds, for example, tend to be costly, but there are ways to find them at a lower price, such as shopping around or opting for a smaller carat size. On the other hand, some gemstones, such as amethyst or topaz, can be more affordable while still providing a unique and beautiful option for a wedding ring.

Setting

The setting of the stone is an important aspect of the ring's design. There are several types of settings to choose from, including bezel settings, gallery wire settings, and basket settings. The setting should complement the stone and the overall design of the ring. It is also important to ensure that the setting is secure and will hold the stone in place during everyday wear.

Personal Preference

Ultimately, the choice of stone comes down to personal preference. Some couples may want to incorporate their favourite colours or birthstones into the ring, while others may be drawn to the unique look of a particular stone. It is important to choose a stone that holds a special meaning for the couple and reflects their style and personality.

Polishing and finishing

Cleaning and Polishing

If you are polishing a ring made from a precious metal, such as gold, silver, or platinum, you can use a polishing cloth or a polishing solution. You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner, which is a machine that will clean your ring without the need for scrubbing or polishing by hand.

Burnishing

Burnishing is a technique that can be used to polish rings made from solid gold, silver, or platinum. This method involves using a smooth stainless steel implement, such as a screwdriver, to smooth out the metal and bring out its shine. This technique is appealing because it does not result in any loss of metal.

Sanding

Sanding is a more labour-intensive method of polishing and is particularly useful for wooden rings. Sanding by hand can be time-consuming and tedious, so it may be preferable to use a belt sander to speed up the process. It is important to keep the ring moving during this step to avoid creating flat spots.

Heat Treating

Heat treating is an optional step that can be used to strengthen wooden rings. This involves using a heat gun to heat the ring until it begins to smoke slightly. This causes the wood cells to constrict, which can make the ring more durable. However, overheating the wood can also make it brittle, so this step should be done with care.

Oiling

Once your ring is polished, you may wish to apply a coat of oil, such as Tung oil, to seal and protect the surface. This step is not necessary, but it can help to preserve the ring and enhance its natural colour and grain.

Frequently asked questions