George Boyle
Wedding dresses are often formal wear, which means they may have extra fabric folded into the side seams to give you some wiggle room. If your wedding dress doesn't fit, the first step is to take a deep breath and remember that this is a common issue. You can then try pulling the dress up so the waist sits at your natural waist, or add a gusset, fabric panel, or side slit to make the dress bigger. If you're unsure, a bridal stylist, consultant, or seamstress can help you with alterations.
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What You'll Learn
Check if the dress can be let out
It is important to note that not all dresses can be let out. The amount a wedding dress can be let out depends on the original seam allowance and dress construction.
To check if a dress can be let out, you need to inspect the side seam and look for how much fabric is available in the skirt. If the seam allowance inside is greater than 1” in width, then the dress can likely be let out. If the dress has a chiffon layer, the chiffon layer will be sewn separately and independently of the rest of the dress, and it will have a different finish on the inside.
Most dresses are made with some extra fabric, and usually, there is about 3/4" of wiggle room. Simple silhouettes with minimal embellishment generally allow for letting out between 1-2 inches in both the bodice and skirt. Intricate beading, lace overlays, and boning often limit alterations. Skirts with pleats, gathers, or inserts may allow for several inches before compromising the original look.
If you are buying a second-hand dress, it is a good idea to ask the seller for their measurements so you can compare them to your own.
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Assess the fabric and construction
To widen a wedding dress, it is important to first assess the fabric and construction. This is because the process of widening a dress will depend on the fabric and construction of the dress.
Firstly, the fabric used for the wedding dress will determine the level of ease in widening the dress. Some fabrics are more delicate and prone to snagging, pulling, or fraying, such as crepe, chiffon, organza, and rayon. These fabrics may be more challenging to work with and may require extra care during the widening process. On the other hand, polyester satin and synthetic alternatives are more wrinkle-resistant and durable, making them easier to work with.
Additionally, the construction of the dress will play a significant role in the widening process. If the dress has a lined bodice or French seaming, it may be more difficult to alter. In contrast, a dress with a princess seam or a side zipper can be a good candidate for widening, as it allows for more flexibility in letting out the seams or adding extra fabric.
It is also important to consider the style and silhouette of the dress. The fabric used can greatly impact the style and silhouette, with some materials better suited for structured designs and others for flowing, light looks or larger-than-life ball gowns. When widening a dress, it is crucial to ensure that the alterations align with the desired style and silhouette.
Furthermore, the amount of fabric available will determine the extent to which the dress can be widened. If there is not enough fabric to work with, additional fabric may need to be sourced from the designer or a similar material may need to be purchased separately.
Lastly, the dye of the fabric should be considered. If the fabric was dyed with indigo or a similar dye that fades over time, letting out the seams might reveal darker dyed areas, making the alteration obvious.
By assessing the fabric and construction of the wedding dress, one can determine the best approach for widening the dress and ensure a successful alteration.
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Measure the dress and your body
To widen a wedding dress, you will first need to take your own measurements and compare them to the current measurements of the dress. This will help you determine how much wider the dress needs to be to fit you comfortably.
- Wear the undergarments that you plan to wear with your wedding dress. It is important to consider that even your bra or nylon tights can add volume, so make sure to take this into account when measuring.
- Stand straight with your arms down, freely along your body. Keep your usual posture.
- Use a flexible measuring tape and ensure it is parallel to the floor. The tape should be comfortable around your body and not too tight. You should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your body.
- Measure your bust by passing the tape around your back and up to the front, at the level of the fullest part of your bust. Keep the tape levelled in a straight line.
- Measure your waist by bending to one side - the crease created is your natural waist. Wrap the tape around the narrowest part of your torso, which is usually above the belly button and below the rib cage.
- Measure your hips by standing with your feet together and wrapping the tape around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.
- Note that if you are ordering a custom dress, you may also need to take a hollow-to-hem measurement. This is done by measuring from the centre of your collarbone (the hollow) to the bottom of the dress (the hem). It is recommended to wear your bridal shoes or shoes of similar height for this measurement.
Once you have your body measurements, you can then measure the dress. Lay the dress flat and double the side-to-side measurements to get the full circumference for each section: bust, waist, and hips. Compare these measurements to your own, and determine how much wider you need to make the dress.
Now that you have these measurements, you can decide on the best method to widen your wedding dress.
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Sewing alterations
Widening a wedding dress can be done in several ways, depending on the style and construction of the dress. Here are some sewing alterations you can make:
Letting Out the Dress
If your wedding dress is too tight, you can let it out by adjusting the seams. First, turn the dress inside out and check if there is extra fabric at the seams. Wedding dresses often have extra fabric at the seams to allow for alterations. If there is no extra fabric, you won't be able to let out the dress.
If there is extra fabric, determine how much larger you need the dress to be by measuring your waist and hips. Then, calculate how many inches you need to let out on each side of the dress. With the dress still inside out, try it on and mark the top and bottom of the new seam. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitches from the old seam, being careful not to rip the fabric.
If your dress has an enclosed seam, you may not need to sew anything back up. If it had extra folded fabric, you'll need to sew it back up using a sewing machine. Press the new seams with an iron to make them lay flat.
Adding Fabric or Panels
If you need more inches than letting out the seams can provide, you can add extra fabric or panels to the side seams. Choose a fabric that is similar in type and weight to the original fabric. Open up the seams under the arms and purchase a matching fabric, usually in a triangle shape. Sew the new fabric into the dress, hem, and you're done!
You can also add decorative panels or stripes to the sides of the dress for a unique design element. This method can be a creative way to widen your wedding dress while adding a stylish touch.
Adding a Gusset
If your wedding dress needs to be bigger in the bust area, you can add a diamond-shaped gusset to the side seams. This will allow for more room and ensure the bustline fits perfectly.
Widening the Dress Pattern
If you are working with a dress pattern and know it is too narrow, you can widen it before cutting and sewing. Adjust the pattern equally along the bust, waist, and hip areas on both the right and left sides. For example, if you need to widen the dress by a total of 1", divide that equally (1/4" each) on the chest, waist, and hips on both sides of the pattern.
Additionally, you can use darts at the back or waistline to help achieve the right fit. It is important to have accurate body measurements to correctly adjust the pattern for a perfect fit.
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Non-sewing alterations
While it is challenging to widen a wedding dress without sewing, it is possible to do so in some cases. Here are some methods for non-sewing alterations:
Stretching the Fabric
If your wedding dress is made of a stretchy fabric like a knit, you may be able to gently stretch it out by a size or two. This method won't work for non-stretchy fabrics, and you should be careful not to overstretch the fabric to avoid damaging it.
Removing Shaping Features
Another option is to remove shaping features such as darts or pleats from the bodice of the dress. This method can open up more space in the dress without requiring any sewing.
Using Temporary Adhesives
For temporary widening, you can use adhesives like fabric glue, hemming tape, or safety pins. Hemming tape is a fusible adhesive used to secure fabric hems and is available in different strengths for various fabric weights. Safety pins can also be used to create a temporary widening solution, but they may be more visible.
Velcro Strips
Adhesive Velcro strips can be used to create a temporary and adjustable hem. Cut and attach the Velcro strips to the inside of the dress, matching the hem's circumference. This method is beneficial if you need to adjust the length of the dress multiple times, such as changing shoe heights between the wedding ceremony and reception.
It is important to note that these non-sewing methods may not provide as much widening as sewing alterations, and they may be more suitable for temporary adjustments. Additionally, always follow the care instructions for your dress after making any alterations to ensure the changes hold up.
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Frequently asked questions
Turn your dress inside out and check the side seams. If there is extra fabric folded along the seam, then it is possible to let out the dress. Formal dresses such as wedding gowns often have extra fabric at the seams.
The best way to make the bust of a dress bigger is to add a diamond gusset to the side seams. This method does not require removing sleeves or altering the waistline and neckline.
A gusset is a piece of fabric that is added to a garment to increase its size. It is usually diamond or football-shaped and is added to the side seams of a dress.
If your dress does not have extra fabric at the seams, you can insert a fabric panel that matches the colour of your dress. Cut out a panel that stretches from your neck to your waist or hips, depending on where you need extra room.
Don't panic! These things happen more often than you think due to bloating and water retention. Pull the dress up so that the waist is in the right spot, and remember that you will need two people to help you get into the gown.
