Deborah Chan
Wedding dress bustles are a great way to ensure brides can move freely and safely during their wedding reception, especially if the dress has a long train. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, Ballroom, Bow, and Royal bustle, each with a unique look and purpose. One such bustle is the under-bustle, also known as the French bustle, which is the opposite of the American style. This technique involves folding the train under itself, creating an understated two-layer hem. The under-bustle is perfect for brides who want to showcase their dress's embellishments and create a beautiful layered effect.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To allow the bride to move around and dance without tripping over the train |
| Types | American, French, Ballroom, Bow, Royal/Victorian, English, Over, Under |
| Attachment Methods | Buttons, hooks, loops, ties, ribbons, eye hooks |
| Cost | $75-$250, or $400 in some cases |
| Timing | Between the ceremony and reception, or after the first dance |
| Who | The MOH or a trusted bridesmaid |
| Practice | Practise bustling before the wedding day |
| Emergency Kit | Sewing needle, clear fishing line, large safety pins |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between an under bustle and an over bustle
Wedding dress bustles are alterations made to the back of a wedding dress that lift the train off the ground and secure it to the dress. There are several types of bustles, including the over bustle and the under bustle.
The over bustle, also known as the American bustle, is a classic style that is one of the most popular among brides. The outside of the train is secured near the waistline, forming a cascading effect. The fabric folds over itself, and loops or hooks are added along the waistline. This style is well-suited to dresses with fairly long trains and works with many types of bridal gown silhouettes, including A-line, ball gown, and mermaid.
The under bustle, also known as the French bustle, is the opposite of the American style. The train tucks underneath the dress, creating an understated, two-layer hem that adds design to the back. Color-coordinated ribbons or numbers are added underneath the gown, and the train is tucked up and under as each hook is matched with its pair. This style is better suited to dresses with minimal trains and is popular with mermaid dresses and trumpet silhouettes.
Both the over bustle and the under bustle can be created using a one-point system or multiple pickup points, depending on the desired look and the type of dress. The one-point system is simpler and cheaper but is not recommended for heavier dresses.
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How to prepare your dress for bustling
Wedding dress bustles are a great way to prepare your dress for the reception, especially if you have a long train. It will allow you to move freely, dance, and mingle without worrying about guests stepping on your train or tripping over it. There are several types of bustles, each with a different look, but they all serve the same basic purpose. Here are some tips on how to prepare your dress for bustling:
- Choose the right bustle style for your dress: The type of bustle you choose will depend on the style of your dress. For example, if you have a statement bow or sash at the back, a bow bustle or royal bustle may be a good choice. If you want to completely hide the train, a ballroom bustle might be best. If your dress has a short train and minimal embellishments, consider a French bustle for a beautiful layered effect.
- Work with a seamstress: Consult a seamstress who is experienced in wedding dresses and can advise you on the best bustle style for your dress. They will be able to sew in the bustle and ensure it is the correct height for you.
- Practice bustling: Your bustle will likely use buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons to secure the train. Practice attaching and detaching the bustle before the wedding day so that you and your designated helper are familiar with the process.
- Take photos before bustling: The train is a beautiful part of your wedding dress, so be sure to take most of your family and wedding photos before you bustle your dress. You can also decide on a specific time to bustle your dress, such as between the ceremony and reception or after your first dance.
- Prepare for emergencies: Wedding dresses can be heavy, and there is a chance that the bustle may break. Prepare an emergency kit with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins to make any necessary repairs.
- Consider alternatives: If you are not comfortable with a traditional bustle, there are alternatives such as a wrist loop, which allows you to carry the train at your side. However, this may not be suitable for all dresses, so discuss this option with your seamstress.
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How to attach hooks, buttons, loops, ties, and ribbons
Hooks, buttons, loops, ties, and ribbons are all used to secure the train of a wedding dress, allowing the bride to move around freely and dance without tripping over her dress.
Hooks
Hooks can be used to secure the train of a wedding dress in a few different ways. One way is to sew hooks onto the waistline of the dress and then fasten the train to the hooks, creating a look of elegant pleats at the waist. Another way to use hooks is in conjunction with loops or ties. The hooks can be attached to the outside of the dress, high up on the train near the lower back, and then the loops or ties are fastened to the hooks to secure the train.
Buttons
Buttons can be used in a similar way to hooks, either sewn onto the waistline of the dress or attached higher up on the train. Loops are then created with thread and attached to the buttons to secure the train.
Loops
Loops can be made with thread and attached to buttons, or they can be made of ribbon or fabric and sewn directly to the back of the dress. When using loops with buttons, be sure to use strong thread to create the loops and place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train for added security.
Ties
Ties can be attached to the underside of the skirt, with the corresponding tie or hook attached to the end of the train. This allows the train to be pulled and secured, creating a puffy or voluminous effect.
Ribbons
Ribbons can be used in a similar way to ties, with one ribbon attached to the underside of the skirt and the other attached to the end of the train. The ribbons are then tied together to secure the train. Ribbons can also be used to create loops, which are then fastened to buttons or hooks.
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How to create a French bustle
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a technique where the train of the wedding dress folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem at the back. This bustle style is not exclusive to sweeping gowns and can be a stunning option that is not overly complicated.
To create a French bustle, you will need the following items:
- Wedding dress (works best on satin A-line dresses with 3 seams in the back and a chapel train or longer)
- Dressform/mannequin or a friend the same size as the bride, wearing heels
- Measuring tape
- Grosgrain ribbon (preferably in 3 different designs or colours)
- 1 sheet of felt
- Sharp straight pins
- Thin needle
- White polyester thread
- Old sheet or blanket
- Crinoline/petticoat (optional)
- Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place the dress form in the middle, adjusting the measurements to be about 2 inches smaller than the dress.
- Put the dress inside out on the dress form. If the dress has beadwork, cover the form with a sheet first to protect it. If you have a crinoline/petticoat, fluff it in the dryer and put it on the form before placing the dress.
- Find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. Flatten the train to see how long it puddles on the floor, then find the "floor length" without the train.
- Measure from the floor to the end of the train. Place straight pins at the desired distance (e.g., 7-8 inches). Adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.
- Sew on a pair of ribbons at the desired measurement. Sew the last pair of ribbons parallel to these and tie the pairs together. Colour-coded ribbons are helpful for the person tying the bustle.
- Flip the dress back to its original position. The French bustle will now look like an American bustle from the outside, with the train tucked underneath the dress.
- For a three-point bustle, repeat the process by putting a point on either side of the first one. Measure from the floor to the end of the train, this time about 7-8 inches to the side of the centre seam. Sew on additional ribbons and tie them together.
Creating a French bustle can be time-consuming and challenging, but the finished product is worth it. Always give yourself enough time and take breaks to ensure the oils from your hands do not soil the fabric. Additionally, take most of your photos before bustling your dress to show off the train, and decide when you'd like to bustle it during your wedding day.
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How to create a wrist loop
A wrist loop is a wedding dress bustle alternative that involves adding a loop to the underside of the train, allowing you to carry it from your wrist. This option provides convenience and ease of movement, especially if you have a heavy train or prefer not to bustle your dress. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to create a wrist loop:
Assess the Dress:
Not all dresses are suitable for a wrist loop. Consult a seamstress or bridal stylist to determine if this option is feasible for your specific dress. They will consider factors such as the length and weight of the train, as well as the overall design of the gown.
Prepare the Materials:
If a wrist loop is suitable for your dress, gather the necessary materials. You will need a strong, durable fabric for the loop that complements the colour and style of your dress. The fabric should be wide enough to comfortably fit around your wrist without being too tight or restrictive.
Attach the Loop:
With the guidance of your seamstress, decide on the ideal placement for the loop. It should be attached to the underside of the train, typically near the centre, to ensure the train hangs gracefully from your wrist. Use small, neat stitches to securely attach the loop. Consider reinforcing the stitching to ensure it can withstand the weight of the train.
Practice Carrying the Train:
Once the loop is attached, practice carrying your train by placing the loop around your wrist. Adjust the length of the loop as needed to ensure a comfortable fit. Remember to practice walking and moving with the train to get a feel for it.
Consider Additional Support:
If you're concerned about the weight of the train or want extra security, consider adding additional loops or buttons. For example, you could attach a small snap button to the inside of the train and a corresponding snap to the loop, providing an extra point of connection.
While a wrist loop can be a stylish and convenient option, it's important to note that it may not be suitable for the entire event. You may still want to consider a traditional bustle or train-carrying assistant for certain parts of your wedding, such as the first dance or photos.
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Frequently asked questions
An under bustle, also known as a French bustle, is when the train of the wedding dress folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated, two-layer hem with a beautiful layered effect.
An under bustle is perfect for bridal gowns with embellishments near the waist, heavier fabrics, and short trains with minimal embellishments. It is also ideal if you want to show off a statement bow or sash at the back of your dress.
Most brides opt to bustle their wedding dress between the ceremony and reception, or after their first dance. It is recommended to take most of your family and wedding photos before bustling your dress, so you can show off the train.
You can attach an under bustle by sewing ribbons, buttons, or hooks to the underside of your wedding dress train. Color-coded ribbons or numbers can be used to make it easier to fasten the bustle.
It is important to work with a seamstress who is familiar with wedding dresses and can sew in the appropriate bustle for your dress. Practice bustling your dress before your wedding day and designate a trusted bridesmaid or MOH to be in charge of bustling your dress. Prepare an emergency bag with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins in case your bustle breaks.
