Franklin Dean
Wedding dress alterations are a common procedure to ensure the dress fits the bride perfectly. The process involves taking in the waist, adjusting the bust, hips, and adding personal touches such as beading or lace details. A good bridal stylist and seamstress can work wonders on a wedding dress, but it's important to be clear about what needs to be altered. This may include letting out or taking in the seams, adjusting the length, or adding support with mesh or boning. The process of taking in the waist specifically involves putting the dress on inside out, pinning the waist where it needs to be taken in, marking the area with chalk, and then sewing along the chalk line. This technique can transform an ill-fitting dress into one that highlights the bride's curves and figure.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Preparation | Measure the widest part of your hips and the narrowest part of your waist. |
| Wear close-fitting clothing or lift your clothes and wrap a measuring tape around your waist and hips. | |
| Put the dress on a dress dummy so it fits snugly or lay it flat on a work surface. | |
| If the dress is on a dummy, wrap the measuring tape around the waist and hips. | |
| If the dress is flat on a work surface, pull the measuring tape across the waistline and double that amount to get your measurement. | |
| Write down all measurements. | |
| Put the dress on inside out. | |
| Pin the waist where you want to take it in. | |
| Take the dress off carefully. | |
| Mark the pinned area with chalk. | |
| Sewing | Sew along the chalk line. |
| Cut away the excess fabric or leave it in case you want to let out the dress at some point. | |
| Try it on and make adjustments if necessary. | |
| If you want the dress to look professionally tailored, add vertical darts on the front and back. | |
| If you want to shorten the dress, measure from your waist down to the part of your leg where you want the dress to fall. | |
| If you want to add a waist stay, add a loop of ribbon that hooks around the narrowest part of your waist and is sewn to the bottom of the boning. |
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What You'll Learn
Measure your waist, hips, and bust
When taking your measurements, it is best to wear only the underwear you plan to wear on your wedding day, as even a bra or nylon tights can add volume to your frame. If possible, enlist the help of a friend to take your measurements, so that you can relax your body with your arms down freely along your body.
Bust
To measure your bust, pass the measuring tape around your back and up to the front, at the level of the fullest part of your bust. Keep the tape level in a straight line and don't make it too tight—you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your body. Don't hold your breath, simply relax and breathe normally. If you are measuring your bust by yourself, you can ask a friend to handle the measuring tape for you so that you can keep your arms relaxed at your sides.
Waist
The waist is the smallest part of your torso, not around your belly button or across your hipbones. Just like you did with your bust, pass the measuring tape along your waist. Don't make it too tight, breathe normally and remember to fit a finger between the tape and your waist.
Hips
Stand straight and pull the tape across the widest part of your hips and the fullest part of your bottom. Again, don't make it too tight—you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your hips so that you can sit comfortably in your dress.
After taking your measurements, compare them to the designer's size chart. It's important to order the largest size that corresponds to your measurements. For example, if your bust, waist, and hip measurements correspond to sizes 10, 12, and 14, respectively, you should order a size 14 dress and get it altered to custom fit your body.
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Put the dress on inside out and pin where you want to take it in
To take in the waist of a wedding dress, one method is to put the dress on inside out and pin the waist where you want to take it in. This is a good way to visualise how much fabric needs to be taken in and how the dress will fit once it's sewn.
Firstly, put the dress on inside out. Stand in front of a mirror so you can see what you are doing. Feel for the side seam, or whichever seam you are taking in, and start pinning. If the bodice is too big, the side seam won't be pulling forward or backward, it will be slack. If you need more room in the back than the chest, for example, pin out more from the back. When you have finished altering the dress, the side seam should be straight, not tilting to the front or the back. Place the pins facing downwards as you pin out the excess fabric.
Take the dress off carefully and mark the pinned area with chalk. Remove the pins and sew along the chalk line. Now, turn the dress the right way out and try it on. If the fit is as desired, you're done! If not, you may need to adjust the seam. If the dress is too tight, you may need to remove the seam you've just made. If it's still too loose, sew a closer seam.
You may want to iron the dress so that the excess fabric lies flat. If you don't like the feeling of excess fabric inside the dress, you can cut it away, leaving at least 1/2 inch of space between the seam so you don't accidentally cut into it.
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Mark the pinned area with chalk, then sew along the chalk line
Once you have the wedding dress on inside out, carefully pin the waist where you want to take it in. This will allow you to see how much fabric you need to take in and how the dress will fit once altered. After you've pinned the waist, it's time to mark the pinned area with chalk. Remove the dress and lay it flat on a work surface. Then, using tailor's chalk, mark a line along the pinned area. If you don't have tailor's chalk, you can use an old sliver of soap. This chalk line will serve as your guide for sewing.
Before you start sewing, it's important to measure the difference between your waist measurements and the dress measurements. This will help you determine how much fabric you need to take in at the waist. For example, if your waist measurement is 34 inches and the dress waist is 38 inches, you'll need to take in 4 inches from the waist. Mark this measurement on the dress with chalk.
Now, you can start sewing along the chalk line. Sew just inside the chalk line to avoid any visible marks on the outside of the dress. Use small stitches to carefully sew along the line you marked. Once you've finished sewing, try on the dress to ensure it fits as desired. If any adjustments are needed, you can make them now. If you're happy with the fit, turn the dress right side out and enjoy your perfectly fitted wedding dress!
Remember, if you're unsure about making alterations to your wedding dress, it's always best to consult a professional tailor. They have the expertise and experience to ensure your dress fits you perfectly and flatters your figure.
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Try it on and make adjustments if necessary
Once you've made your initial adjustments, try on the dress to see if it fits. If it doesn't, you can make further adjustments.
Try the dress on inside out and carefully pin the waist where you want to take it in. Chalk can be used to mark the pinned area. Remove the pins and sew along the chalk line. You can then turn the dress the right way round and try it on again.
If you need to make further adjustments, you can try fusible tape, but this is only a temporary solution. You could also try vertical darts on the front and back of the dress. These are easy to add and can be removed if you don't like how they look.
If you need to let out the waist, you can cut along the seam and let out the required amount of fabric. You can then sew a new seam parallel to the original.
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Add vertical darts on the front and back for a professional look
To add vertical darts on the front and back of a wedding dress for a professional look, follow these steps:
First, put on the dress inside out and use small safety pins to mark and pin the darts in place. This way, when you turn the dress to be right side out, the darts will look natural. It is important to ensure that the darts are pinned in the correct places and that they hang properly. Once you are happy with the placement, take the dress off and sew along the pins with a straight stitch.
Darts are a great way to reduce the amount of fabric in one area, providing a sleek and smooth look. They are commonly used around the bust, waist, and hips to enhance the fit of a garment. Vertical darts, in particular, can be used to address a protruding abdomen. These darts are typically pressed towards the center of the dress.
When sewing darts, it is essential to taper them out to nothing at the top and bottom. Start by pinning the deepest part of the dart on each side of the dress, and gradually move upward, making it narrower until it tapers out. Then, repeat the process for the bottom of the dart. You can also use a dress form or enlist a friend to help you pin-baste the garment while you wear it. This will ensure that the darts are placed correctly and that the fabric is smooth.
After sewing the darts, it is important to press them flat to meld the stitches together. This can be done using a tailor's ham or a rolled-up towel. Finally, clip the seam allowance near the beginning of the stitching to allow the dart to relax.
By following these steps, you can add vertical darts to the front and back of your wedding dress, creating a professional and flattering look.
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Frequently asked questions
Taking in the waist of a wedding dress is a common alteration that can be done by a skilled tailor. One method involves sewing darts into the waistline to create a more tailored fit. Another method involves taking in the side seams of the dress by carefully removing and reattaching the fabric.
It's important to consider the overall design and structure of the dress. Intricate beading or lacework may make alterations challenging. Consult a professional to determine if altering the waist is feasible for your dress.
Ultimately, this decision depends on the fit and your personal preference. If the waist is too loose, you may want to take it in. If the waist is too tight, you may need to let it out by adding extra fabric to the waistline.
During your fitting appointment, a seamstress will take your measurements and pin the areas that need to be altered. They may use methods such as sewing darts or altering the side seams to achieve the desired fit.
Yes, other common alterations include adjusting the bust, hips, neckline, and length of the dress. You can also add personal touches such as sleeves, beading, or a personalized bodice.
