Deborah Chan
Wedding dress alterations are a common procedure to ensure the gown fits the bride's body perfectly. The process involves taking measurements and making adjustments to various parts of the dress, including the bust, waist, hips, and length. While some dresses may only require minor tweaks, others may need more extensive changes, such as adding sleeves, altering the neckline, or adjusting the train length. The number of fittings needed depends on the complexity of the alterations, with most brides requiring two to three fittings. During the first fitting, the bride tries on the dress, and the seamstress assesses the alterations needed. The subsequent fittings fine-tune these adjustments until the dress is perfect. This paragraph will discuss the specific process of taking in a wedding dress bust to achieve a flawless fit.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of fittings | 2-3 fittings |
| First fitting | 3 months before the wedding |
| Second fitting | 1 month before the wedding |
| Final fitting | 2 weeks before the wedding |
| Cost | $50-$1,000 |
| Taking in from the sides | Take equal measurements from both sides |
| Boning | Removing boning can alter the shape of the dress |
| Seam allowance | Check if the seam allowance is sufficient in size |
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Taking measurements
Wear the Appropriate Clothing:
Wear the undergarments that you plan to wear on your wedding day, as even a bra or nylon tights can add volume and affect the measurements. If you are not planning to wear a bra, take the measurements without one. You can also wear a tight-fitting outfit, such as leggings and a tank top, if that makes you more comfortable.
Bust Measurement:
Stand straight and wrap the measuring tape around your back, under your arms, and at the fullest part of your bust. Ensure the tape is levelled in a straight line and not too tight; you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your body. This measurement is the width around the fullest part of your chest to the widest part of your back.
Waist Measurement:
Stand straight and bend to one side to find your natural waist. Wrap the measuring tape around the narrowest part of your waist, keeping it levelled and without pulling it too tight. Again, you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your waist.
Hip Measurement:
Stand with your feet together and pass the measuring tape around the widest part of your hips and the fullest part of your bottom. Keep the tape levelled and ensure it is not too tight.
Hollow to Hem Measurement:
This measurement is especially important for custom dresses. Measure from the centre of your collarbone (hollow) to the bottom (hem) of the dress. Wear your bridal shoes or shoes with a similar heel height to get the most accurate measurement.
Additional Tips:
It is helpful to have a friend or family member assist with the measurements. One person can hold the measuring tape while the other records the numbers. Remember to breathe normally and relax during the process. Do not hold your breath or suck in your stomach, as this will impact the accuracy of the measurements.
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Adjusting the seams
Taking Measurements
Taking accurate measurements is crucial. Measure the bust, ensuring equal amounts of fabric are taken from both sides. Focus on taking more fabric from the upper part of the bust than the lower area. Write down the measurements separately for the left and right sides.
Marking the Fabric
Try on the dress, and enlist the help of a friend to pin the new stitching line with straight pins. Ensure the centre front and back of the dress remain on a straight line. Carefully remove the dress, keeping the pins undisturbed. If necessary, mark the pinning line with a pencil for any pins that must be removed, and use a water-soluble pen or tailor's chalk to mark the remaining pins.
If the seam allowance is sufficient for the desired alterations, start adjusting the measurements. Use a seam ripper to gently remove the seams, working on four sides: front right, front left, back right, and back left. Mark the fabric where adjustments are needed, and then put the dress parts back together.
Sewing the Seams
After making the necessary adjustments, sew the new measurements into the fabric, combining the two parts. Remove any pins and marker spots. Ensure that you are left with two matching seam lines. Check for any untrimmed, raw edges and close the seams. Turn the dress inside out to inspect the placement of ribbons and new dress seams.
Final Fitting
Try on the dress again, this time with the right side out, to confirm that the bust adjustments have been successful. Check for any puckers in the fabric, which can be pressed out or restitched to create a smooth line.
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Removing boning
However, some people choose to remove the boning from their wedding dresses, particularly if they feel it makes their bust look disproportionate or pointy. Removing the boning may require re-beading the dress, and it is important to consider the placement of the boning and the overlay of the dress. It is recommended to consult a seamstress or tailor before removing the boning, as they can advise on the best course of action and ensure the dress is altered correctly.
If the boning is removed, the wearer may need to wear a bra or basque underneath the dress for support, particularly if the dress is strapless. This can be a solution for those who feel the boning does not fit their body shape, as it allows for a more personalised fit without altering the structure of the dress.
In some cases, rather than removing the boning, a seamstress may suggest alternative alterations, such as sewing in padded cups to take up extra space or adding a sash to adjust the fit. It is important to consider the overall structure of the dress and the potential impact of removing the boning on its appearance and functionality.
Overall, while removing boning from a wedding dress is possible, it is a significant alteration that can change the look and fit of the dress. It is important to consult a professional and consider the potential impact on the dress's structure and appearance before making any changes.
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Adding inserts
Preparation:
Before making any adjustments, it is crucial to try on the dress and identify the areas that require alterations. Mark the new stitching lines with the help of a friend. Use straight pins to ensure that the center front and center back of the dress remain straight. Remove the dress carefully without disturbing the pins. If necessary, use a pencil to lightly mark the pinning lines. Use a water-soluble pen or tailor's chalk to mark the remaining pins.
Measuring:
Take measurements of the bust area, both from the side seams and across the front and back. Mark these measurements on a piece of paper, distinguishing between the left and right sides. Pay attention to taking more fabric from the upper part of the bust than the bottom, as this will ensure a smooth fit.
Sewing:
Begin sewing along the new seam lines, combining the two parts of the fabric. Remove any pins and marker spots. Check that the new seam lines are even and match up correctly. Close the seams and turn the dress inside out to inspect the placement of ribbons and new dress seams.
Insert Options:
There are various types of inserts that can be used to adjust the bust area:
- Side-seam inserts: These can be in the form of a tall triangle, with the base of the triangle added to the side seam. This option can be more cost-effective if perfection in the interior lining is not a priority.
- Underarm inserts: Fabric can be added under the arms to increase the bust size. This option may require going braless or adding modesty panels for coverage.
- Shoulder blade inserts: Also known as godets, these inserts are added at the shoulder blades to provide more room in the bust area.
- Illusion panels: A larger illusion panel can be added to increase the bust size, but this option may be more revealing.
It is important to consider the style of the dress and the wearer's body shape when choosing the type of insert. Additionally, the fabric and lace pattern of the dress should be taken into account to achieve a seamless look.
Final Adjustments:
After adding the inserts, try on the dress again to confirm that the bust fits correctly. Press out or restitch any puckers in the fabric to create a smooth line. If necessary, make further adjustments to ensure a perfect fit.
By following these steps and choosing the appropriate type of insert, you can successfully alter the bust area of a wedding dress to achieve a flattering and comfortable fit.
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Stitching
Marking the New Seam Lines
Try on the dress, and if possible, wear it inside out. This makes it easier to mark the new seam lines accurately. Enlist the help of a friend to pin the new stitching line with straight pins while you are wearing the dress. They should ensure that the centre front and centre back of the dress remain on a straight line. If you need to remove the dress before marking the lines, use a pencil to lightly mark the pinning line. Alternatively, use a water-soluble pen or tailor's chalk to mark the remaining pins.
Adjusting the Fabric
Once you have clear markings, carefully remove the pins and any visible marks. You should now have two matching seam lines that are placed in front of each other. At this stage, ensure that there are no untrimmed, raw edges. Close the seams, turn the dress inside out, and inspect the placement of ribbons and new dress seams.
Now, you can begin stitching the layers together. Utilise a sewing machine to stitch along the new seam lines that you have created. After completing the stitching, try on the dress with the right side out to confirm that the bust fits as desired. If there are any puckers or uneven areas in the fabric, press them out or restitch to achieve a smooth line.
Final Checks
After stitching, pay close attention to the upper and lower parts of the bust area. Ensure that you have taken in more fabric from the upper part of the bust than the bottom to maintain the desired shape. Double-check your measurements and make any necessary adjustments.
Tips for Stitching
- When taking in the bust, remember to work on all four sides: front right, front left, back right, and back left.
- If you are working with a patterned fabric, alterations can be more challenging. You will need to pay close attention to maintaining the pattern's alignment and symmetry.
- Taking in the side seams is generally an easier task, as you simply need to ensure equal measurements on both sides.
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Frequently asked questions
Don't worry, it's normal for a wedding dress to need alterations to fit your body. You can take your dress to a seamstress who will pin the areas that need to be taken in and then sew the new measurements into the fabric.
Your bridal boutique will usually have an in-house seamstress or be able to recommend a trusted tailor. You can also search for one yourself and check if they have experience with wedding dress alterations.
If the issue is due to boning in the dress, you could ask if they can remove the boning or find another seamstress who is comfortable doing this.
Most brides have two to three fittings, but you may need more if you're making extensive customizations.
The cost of alterations varies depending on the dress and the type of adjustments, but most brides spend a few hundred dollars, and sometimes closer to $1,000.
