
A bustle is an essential component of any wedding gown with a train, as it safeguards the dress from potential damage and stains. While a professional seamstress typically handles the bustle setup, it is beneficial to understand the process to choose the right style and ensure proper placement. This knowledge will help you glide gracefully across the dance floor without tripping or awkwardly gathering fabric. There are various bustle styles, such as the French bustle, American bustle, ballroom bustle, and Austrian bustle, each with its unique look and functionality. The process of sewing a bustle involves attaching loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons to the back of the gown or along the waistline, allowing the bride to move with ease and preventing the train from dragging on the floor.
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What You'll Learn

The benefits of adding a bustle to your wedding dress
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress can offer several benefits and address some common concerns brides may have about their gowns.
One of the primary advantages of a bustle is that it allows the bride to move around with ease after the ceremony. By securing the fabric of the train or any extra fabric, the bride can walk freely without worrying about tripping over her dress. This is especially useful for gowns with cathedral-length trains or those with intricate details that may hinder the bride's movement on the dance floor.
Another benefit of a bustle is its ability to protect the dress from getting soiled or dirty. By pulling the back of the dress off the ground, the bustle ensures that the fabric remains clean and untouched by any potential stains or damage. This is particularly useful for outdoor weddings or venues with delicate fabrics that may be more susceptible to staining.
Additionally, bustles can enhance the overall appearance of the dress. With options like the ballroom bustle, brides can achieve the illusion of a floor-length gown without the train, creating a sleek and elegant silhouette. The bustle can also be used to showcase decorative work on the train by lifting the back of the dress, adding visual interest and detail to the overall look.
Furthermore, adding a bustle can be a cost-effective way to customise your gown. While some types of bustles can be more expensive, there are simpler options available that can be easily sewn into the dress, reducing the need for extensive alterations and saving money.
Lastly, a bustle provides flexibility and convenience. Brides can choose from various bustle styles to find one that complements their dress and personal preference. Additionally, the bustle can be easily managed by a designated person, usually a bridesmaid or family member, ensuring that the bride can focus on enjoying her special day without worrying about her dress.
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How to attach buttons, hooks, loops, and ribbons
Buttons, hooks, loops, and ribbons are all ways to bustle a wedding dress. Here is a detailed guide on how to attach them:
Buttons
When adding buttons to a wedding dress, it is important to consider the size of the buttons. Typically, 1/4" or 3/8" buttons are size-appropriate, while 1/2" buttons may look too big. Use button thread, which is thicker than normal thread, to sew the buttons onto the dress. Sew the buttons securely, wherever you made pin marks along the waistline. If the buttons need extra support, attach a small piece of interfacing beneath each one.
Hooks
Hooks can be used to fasten the train of the wedding dress to the outside of the dress. Silver hooks are a good option, and they can be sewn on with upholstery thread. If you cannot find hooks in the desired colour, you can paint them with nail polish.
Loops
To make button loops, use strong thread to thread the needle, then knot the ends together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the top side of the dress's train, wherever you made a pin marking for a button loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, then pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch from the right side of the train, pulling the thread to create a loop that is 1" to 2" long. Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress, and then attach the button about one foot above the bride's knees. Stitch the button securely, making two knots to ensure it doesn't come undone.
Ribbons
When sewing a ribbon onto a wedding dress, it is important to consider the type of ribbon and the desired look. Hand sewing will show the least, but using silk thread will help the stitches blend in. If you want the stitches to be less visible, you can hand-sew the ribbon using a slip stitch. Alternatively, you can sew the ribbon into the side seams, leaving the rest of it free to tie. To prevent the ends of the ribbon from fraying, wave them over a lit match to slightly melt them.
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Different styles of bustles: French, American, Ballroom, Train-flip, Austrian
A bustle is a series of loops, buttons, or ties added to a wedding gown that lifts and secures the train, allowing the bride to move around with ease and alleviating the fear of tripping over a long train. There are several types of bustles, each with a distinct look, but they all benefit the wearer in the same fundamental way. Here are some of the most common bustle styles:
French Bustle
The French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a timeless and elegant option. It can be achieved with a one-point or three-point setup, depending on the length of the train. A French bustle is essentially an American bustle (or overbustle) from the inside out. It is often recommended for more elaborate dress designs.
American Bustle
The American bustle is one of the most common and straightforward options. The train is lifted and secured with buttons or hooks placed on the outside of the dress. It is well-suited for simpler dresses and is less sturdy than a French bustle.
Ballroom Bustle
The Ballroom bustle is perfect for long gowns with intricate details on the train. It completely tucks the train under the dress, giving the appearance of an even hem at the floor level. This style is easy to dance in and provides a balanced weight distribution.
Train-flip Bustle
The Train-flip bustle, also known as a pick-up or overpoint bustle, is a simple and practical option. It involves flipping the train up and securing it to the waistline, often with a single button or hook. This style is well-suited for outdoor or beach weddings.
Austrian Bustle
The Austrian bustle is created by softly gathering the train onto an internal cord, resulting in a ruched effect. It is similar to the appearance of Austrian theatre curtains and is ideal for bodiced dresses with a simple skirt. This style allows the entire dress to be displayed while keeping the original hem near the ground.
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Tips for sewing a bustle on different fabrics
Sewing a bustle onto a wedding dress is a complex task that requires a good understanding of fabrics and sewing techniques. While it is possible to do it yourself, it is recommended that you consult a professional seamstress with experience in wedding dress alterations. Here are some tips for sewing a bustle on different fabrics:
Satin
Satin is a delicate fabric that requires gentle handling. When working with satin, it is important to use clean or gloved hands to avoid soiling the fabric. Use sharp straight pins and thin needles to avoid any unwanted snags or damage to the fabric. It is also recommended to have multiple afternoons set aside for working on the bustle, taking frequent breaks to ensure precision and attention to detail.
Tulle
Tulle is a lightweight and delicate fabric often used in wedding dresses. When creating a bustle with tulle, consider using ribbons to create a French or Victorian bustle. Color-coding the ribbons can make it easier to work with the multiple layers of tulle and skirting. Number the ends of the ribbons if you are concerned about the colors showing through the fabric.
Lace
Lace is a delicate fabric that requires careful handling. When sewing a bustle onto a lace wedding dress, it is important to choose sturdy materials for the bustle, such as strong thread or clear fishing line. Use a needle that is fine enough to avoid creating large holes in the lace fabric. If you are concerned about the appearance of the bustle, consider using lace appliqués to conceal the buttons or hooks.
Heavy Fabrics
When working with heavier fabrics, it is important to consider the weight distribution of the train. The over bustle, or American bustle, may not be suitable for heavy fabrics as it fastens the fabric of the train over the skirt. Instead, consider an under bustle, or French bustle, which tucks the fabric underneath the skirt. Use multiple hooks or buttons to spread the weight of the train evenly and reduce the risk of the bustle breaking.
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How to care for your wedding dress after your big day
Wedding dresses are often made from delicate fabrics and adorned with intricate details, making them vulnerable to damage. To keep your wedding dress in good condition after your big day, follow these steps:
Before the Wedding
Even before your wedding day, there are steps you can take to care for your dress. Avoid storing your dress in a plastic garment bag, as plastic can trap moisture, causing mildew or yellowing. Instead, opt for a breathable cotton garment bag. Keep your dress in a cool, dry, dark place, such as a spare closet, away from sunlight and heat. If your dress has a long train or heavy embellishments, consider laying it flat to prevent stretching.
On the Wedding Day
On your wedding day, your dress is at its highest risk of damage. To minimise this risk, wear a robe or button-up shirt while getting ready to avoid smudging makeup or hairspray on your gown. When it's time to get dressed, carefully step into your dress to avoid pulling or stretching it. During the day, be cautious when eating and drinking, as spills and stains can occur. White wine is safer than red, and a napkin on your lap can catch crumbs. If a spill happens, blot the spot with a clean, damp cloth.
After the Wedding
Get your dress cleaned as soon as possible after your wedding, ideally the day after. You can either professionally dry-clean your dress or hand-wash it, depending on the fabric. Satin, for example, can be dry-cleaned or hand-washed in cold water with mild detergent, while tulle should only be hand-washed with soap flakes or gentle soap and warm water. Lace should be soaked in cold water with gentle soap for 30 minutes before being rinsed and laid flat to dry.
Once your dress is clean, store it somewhere safe, such as in a dry, non-humid environment, out of direct sunlight. You can use the acid-free box your dress arrived in for short-term storage, but for long-term storage, a breathable, acid-free storage bag that blocks out light is recommended.
Preservation
If you want to preserve your wedding dress for the long term, consider using a wedding dress preservation specialist. These professionals will assess your dress and create a unique treatment plan. The cost of preservation varies but can range from $200 to $1,000. Preservation specialists will be able to deal with any invisible stains and ensure your dress stays in good condition for years to come.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle lifts the back of the dress off the ground so that it doesn't get soiled, allowing the bride to move around with ease and reducing the risk of tripping over a long train.
There are several types of bustles, including the regular bustle, French bustle, American bustle, ballroom bustle, train-flip bustle, and Austrian bustle. Each type looks different, but they all benefit the wearer in the same way.
Consult a professional seamstress to determine the best style for your dress and guide you through the process. Buttons, hooks, loops, and ribbons are commonly used to fasten the bustle. These can be sewn onto the dress by hand, ensuring they are secure and can withstand the weight of the train.











































