Crafting A Bridesmaid's Dress: A Step-By-Step Guide

Sewing a bridesmaid dress can be a challenging project, especially for beginners. However, with careful planning, the right tools, and some creativity, it is possible to create a customised dress that fits your unique style and saves you money. The process involves choosing a pattern and fabric, creating a custom dress form, draping the pattern, making a mock-up dress, and finally assembling the dress, which includes sewing the bodice, adding boning for support, creating a corset lacing, and attaching the skirts. One sewist chose to make her bridesmaid dresses with a fitted bodice and a full skirt, combining lace with other fabrics like navy blue polyester peachskin fabric and viscose lining. She adapted commercial patterns to create a unique design, carefully cut and stitched the lace fabric, and added personal touches like a ruched belt.

Choosing a pattern

• Consider your skill level: If you are a beginner, look for patterns labelled as novice or "beginner-friendly". These patterns typically have simpler instructions and require basic sewing techniques.
• Fabric type and weight: Pay attention to the recommended fabric type and weight for each pattern. Some patterns work better with lightweight fabrics like chiffon, while others may require heavyweight fabrics. Choosing a pattern that is suitable for your chosen fabric will make the sewing process much easier.
• Design elements: Think about the design elements you want in your dress. Do you want a fitted bodice, a full skirt, or a particular neckline? Look for patterns that include these design elements or can be easily adapted to incorporate them.
• Mix and match patterns: Don't be afraid to mix and match different commercial patterns to create your desired look. You can combine elements from multiple patterns, such as the bodice from one pattern and the skirt from another, to create a unique design.
• Adapt patterns: If you can't find a pattern that exactly matches your vision, don't be afraid to make adjustments. You can lengthen or shorten hemlines, add or remove sleeves, or adjust necklines to create a custom look.
• Consider the wearer's preferences: If you are sewing a bridesmaid dress for someone else, be sure to consult them on their preferences. Consider their comfort and style, and make any necessary adjustments to the pattern to ensure they feel confident and comfortable in the dress.
• Create a toile: Before cutting into your final fabric, consider creating a toile or a mock-up of the dress in a cheaper fabric. This will allow you to test the fit and make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before committing to your final fabric.

Selecting the fabric

Selecting the right fabric for a bridesmaid dress is crucial, as it can significantly impact the overall look and feel of the dress. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the fabric:

Seasonality

The weight and type of fabric you choose should be appropriate for the season in which the wedding will take place. For warmer weather weddings, lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon, silk, or cotton blends are ideal. These fabrics will help keep the bridesmaids cool and comfortable during the event. On the other hand, for cooler weather weddings, opt for heavier fabrics such as velvet or brocade, which will provide more warmth and structure to the dress.

Drape and Flow

Consider the desired drape and flow of the dress when selecting the fabric. For a romantic and ethereal look, chiffon is an excellent choice as it is lightweight and sheer, creating a beautiful drape that flatters all body types. Mesh is another fabric with fantastic draping capabilities and a comfortable stretch, perfect for creating a soft and flowy silhouette. If you prefer a more structured look, Georgette offers similar draping abilities but without the stretch of mesh.

Comfort

It is important to choose a fabric that will be comfortable for the bridesmaids to wear throughout the wedding day. Satin, for example, has a luxurious feel and a subtle sheen, but it may not be as breathable as other fabrics. Crepe back satin offers a compromise, with a silky outer layer for glamour and a crepe inner layer for added comfort. Lace is another comfortable option, providing interest and dimension to the dress while allowing for breathability.

Colour and Pattern

The colour and pattern of the fabric should complement the wedding theme and colour palette. Consider whether you want a solid colour or a patterned fabric, such as a floral print or a sequin design. If you opt for a solid colour, be sure to choose a hue that aligns with your theme and consider whether a dusty hue, such as dusty sage or dusty blue, could add a touch of whimsy to the overall aesthetic.

Glamour

If you're looking to embody a glamorous and luxe vibe, consider fabrics such as sequins or velvet. Sequins will have your bridesmaids shining from all angles, while velvet adds a rich and smooth texture, especially when paired with jewel tones. For an even more elevated look, satin is a classic and versatile choice, perfect for creating a flattering fit-and-flare or ball gown silhouette.

Cutting the fabric

Planning and Preparation:

Before you start cutting, carefully plan and prepare to ensure accurate cutting and efficient use of your fabric.

• Create a custom dress form: Make a custom dress form that matches your body measurements. This will help you visualise the final dress and make necessary adjustments. You can use materials like duct tape, a T-shirt dress, cardboard, and rope to create your custom dress form.
• Choose the right tools: Select sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and cutting mat to ensure precise cutting. Using weights or pins, secure your pattern pieces to the fabric to prevent shifting.
• Test your fabric: It is important to test your fabric before cutting, especially if you plan to use a new type of fabric. Test how it reacts to pressing and sewing, and choose the appropriate tools and techniques accordingly.
• Allow for seam allowances: When creating your pattern pieces, remember to add seam allowances. Typically, you will need to add about 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) to each edge that will be sewn. This extra fabric will be used for stitching and can be adjusted as needed.

Cutting Techniques:

Once you are ready to cut, follow these techniques for accurate and efficient fabric cutting:

• Cut with precision: Carefully cut along the lines of your pattern pieces, ensuring straight and smooth edges. Use a rotary cutter or fabric scissors and cut with confidence to avoid jagged edges.
• Cut with the grain: Consider the grain direction of your fabric. Cutting with the grain will help your dress hang properly and ensure that the fabric drapes nicely. Avoid cutting fabric on the bias unless specifically required by your pattern.
• Cut one layer at a time: When cutting multiple layers of fabric, focus on cutting one layer at a time. This will help you achieve more accurate cuts and reduce the risk of slipping or shifting.
• Mark and press: Before cutting, mark the fabric with tailor's chalk or soap to indicate the cutting line. Then, use an iron to press a distinct line along your marks, creating a crisp fold for more precise cutting.
• Cut outer layers first: If your dress has multiple layers, start by cutting the outer layers first. This will help you fine-tune your cutting process and ensure consistency across all layers.
• Cut with a plan: Before cutting, plan the placement of each pattern piece on your fabric. Consider the motif or pattern of the fabric and cut in a way that aligns the motifs evenly. This will ensure a harmonious design across the dress.

Remember to take your time, double-check your measurements, and cut with confidence. Cutting the fabric is a crucial step in creating a beautiful bridesmaid dress, so enjoy the process and focus on precision.

Sewing the bodice

The bodice is the central part of the dress and will be the most challenging part to sew. It will consist of multiple layers: the lining layer, the structure layer, the satin layer, and the lace layer. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew each layer:

Lining layer:

• Place the pattern pieces (with seam allowance) on the lining fabric and secure them with weights or pins.
• Cut out the panels using a rotary cutter and a cutting mat.
• Overlock the edges of the panels to prevent fraying and to secure the interfacing.
• Mark the seam lines with tailor's chalk.
• Pin and stitch the panels together.
• Iron the seams to lay flat.

Structure layer:

• Repeat the above steps for the sturdy cotton fabric.
• Create boning tunnels by sewing two layers of bias tape on the seams of the bodice.
• Insert spiral steel boning or pre-made spring steel boning into the tunnels to give the dress support.

Satin layer:

• Iron on interfacing to reinforce the satin fabric.
• Repeat the cutting and sewing process as for the lining layer.

Lace layer:

• Place the pattern pieces without seam allowance on the lace, taking into account the arrangement of lace flowers.
• Trace the edge of the panel by basting with a contrasting thread.
• Cut out the panels, leaving a small seam allowance.
• Carefully cut away the mesh fabric from the lace flowers at the edges.
• Align and pin neighbouring panels, ensuring that the lace flowers overlap to hide the seam.
• Hand sew the overlapping lace flowers to create a seamless look.

Once all the layers of the bodice are complete, you can assemble them together. This will involve attaching the layers with a yoke or facing and installing a zipper or other closure. You may also need to make adjustments for a perfect fit.

Adding finishing touches

Now that the bridesmaid dress is sewn, it's time to add those finishing touches! Here are some ideas to elevate your handmade creation:

Embellishments

Add some sparkle or intricate details to your dress with hand-sewn embellishments. This could be as simple as sewing on some beads or sequins, or you could try more complex embroidery or appliqué techniques. You could also add a belt or sash to accentuate the waist. If you're feeling extra creative, consider making your own custom accessories, like a matching hairpiece, clutch bag, or jewellery to complement the dress.

Personalised Labels

Add a special touch by sewing personalised labels inside each dress. You could embroider the initials of the bridesmaids and the wedding date, or include a meaningful message or quote. This will make the dress truly unique and is sure to be appreciated by your bridal party.

Waist Stays

A waist stay is a hidden belt on the inside of the dress that helps keep the waist anchored to the wearer's waist. It allows for comfortable movement and ensures the dress stays put whether the wearer is sitting, standing, or dancing. To create a waist stay, use a soft, scalloped ribbon such as unbound grosgrain or petersham ribbon. Cut the ribbon to match the circumference of the waist, slightly smaller than the waistline of the dress. Attach a flat hook and bar closure, then pin and stitch the ribbon along the waistline.

Hanger Loops

Add a hanger loop to ensure the dress can be hung up neatly. Cut a long strip of fabric and stitch it into a loop, anchoring it to the dress at the waist to distribute the weight evenly. Position the loop so that it naturally falls towards the inside of the dress when not in use, so it stays discreet.

Hemming

Finish the dress by hemming the bottom to your desired length. Consider the type of fabric you're working with and the overall style of the dress when choosing a hemming technique. For delicate fabrics like chiffon, a rolled hem or narrow hem may be best. For thicker fabrics, you might opt for a double-fold hem. If you're short on fabric, a simple single-fold hem will do the trick!

Frequently asked questions