Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is an important feature that pulls the back of the dress off the ground, allowing the bride to move around freely and preventing damage to the dress. Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, so it is important to work with a skilled seamstress to add one that matches the style and silhouette of the dress. The seamstress will sew hooks, ties, loops, or buttons into the dress, which can then be fastened to secure the train and create a uniform hemline. The most common types of bustles are the over bustle (or American bustle) and the French bustle, which differ in how the train is folded into the dress. The over bustle is generally simpler and more affordable, while the French bustle is more secure. To redo a bustle on a wedding dress, it is essential to understand the different types of bustles and work with a professional seamstress to make the necessary alterations.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of a bustle | To safeguard the wedding dress and its train against damage, prevent tripping, and make the dress more comfortable to wear |
| When to bustle the dress | Between the wedding and reception, or after the first dance |
| Who can attach the bustle | A skilled seamstress or alterations expert |
| Types of bustles | Over bustle/American bustle, French bustle, wrist bustle, and royal bustle |
| Attachment methods | Buttons, hooks, loops, ties, or ribbons |
| Number of attachment points | One or multiple points, depending on the dress style and desired look |
| Cost | $75-$250, or $50 for a one-point bustle in a low cost-of-living area |
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What You'll Learn
Why you need a bustle
A bustle is a key component of any wedding gown with a train. It is a custom-made alteration that safeguards your dress against potential damage and stains. Without a bustle, your wedding dress risks dragging on the ground, collecting dirt, and being stepped on by guests. A bustle also provides peace of mind, as it prevents you from tripping on your train and allows you to move around and dance with ease.
There are several types of bustles to choose from, each offering a unique look while providing the same functional benefits. The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is a popular choice. It involves fastening the fabric of the train over the skirt, creating a cascading effect down the back of the gown. This style is ideal for ball gowns or dresses with cathedral-length trains.
The French bustle, on the other hand, tucks the train underneath the skirt, adding fullness and creating a billowing effect. This style suits a variety of gown silhouettes, including A-line, sheath, mermaid, and trumpet shapes.
To create a bustle, hooks, ties, or buttons are sewn onto the back of the dress, either on the inside or outside, to secure the extra fabric. This process requires skill and experience, so it is recommended to work with a seamstress who specializes in wedding dress alterations.
In summary, a bustle is a necessary addition to any wedding dress with a train. It ensures the preservation of your gown, enhances your comfort and mobility, and allows you to fully enjoy your special day without worrying about tripping or damaging your dress.
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Choosing the right bustle for your dress
Wedding dresses are unlike any other dress, and a bustle is an important part of any gown with a train. A bustle can be a key ingredient in safeguarding your dress and its train from potential damage. It will also save you from tripping on your train and make your dress much more comfortable to wear.
There are several types of bustles, each with a unique look, but they all benefit the wearer of the dress in the same basic way. The style you choose determines how the train will be tied up to make the front and the back of the gown close to the same length. Bustles can be created using buttons, hooks, loops, ties, and more.
The right bustle for your dress will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear your dress. For instance, an American bustle, also known as an over bustle, has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of a dress that enables the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for an ultra-dramatic look. A ballroom bustle, on the other hand, gives the illusion that the gown was floor-length all along, with multiple bustle points sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately.
When choosing a bustle, it is important to trust the seamstress to recommend the best type for your dress. You should also delegate the task of dress bustling to a trusted individual, such as a bridesmaid or family member, who can attend your final alterations appointment and learn how to bustle your dress.
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$14.59
How to sew a loop
To redo a bustle on a wedding dress, you'll need to know how to sew a strong and secure loop, as this is the foundation of the bustle. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to sew a loop:
Start by cutting a piece of fabric that is about twice the length of your desired loop size, and fold it in half lengthwise. You can use a coordinating fabric to match your wedding dress, or a sheer fabric that will be less visible. Using a thin, sharp needle and a length of thread that matches your fabric, start sewing a running stitch along the raw edge of the fold, leaving a tail of thread at the beginning. Keep your stitches small and close together for a secure hold.
When you've sewn about a third of the way down the fabric, stop and tie off your thread with a small knot. Then, gently pull the thread tail from the beginning of your stitching to gather the fabric, creating a pretty ruffle effect. Continue sewing a running stitch down the rest of the fabric, gathering as you go, until you've reached the end. Again, tie off your thread with a small knot to secure the gathers.
Now you should have a piece of fabric that is ruffled and twice the length of your desired loop size. Fold this fabric in half, matching the raw edges, and sew them together with a backstitch for strength. When you reach the end, tie off your thread and trim any excess fabric, leaving a seam allowance of about 0.5 inches.
Turn the tube of fabric inside out so that the seam is on the inside, and use a pencil or thin dowel to gently push out the corners for a crisp finish. Press the loop flat with an iron, and your basic fabric loop is complete. You can now attach this loop to your wedding dress, following the bustle style of your choice.
Remember to take your time and ensure that your stitches are secure. It's a good idea to test the strength of your loop before attaching it to the dress, to ensure it can withstand the weight and movement of the fabric.
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Adding hooks, buttons, or ribbons
Planning the Bustle
Before adding hooks, buttons, or ribbons, it's essential to plan the type of bustle you want. The most common types are the over bustle (American bustle) and the French bustle. The American bustle is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or hook on the upper back of the skirt. The French bustle, on the other hand, tucks the train underneath the dress. You can also consider a wrist bustle, where a loop is added to the underside of the train, allowing you to carry it from your wrist.
Choosing the Right Fasteners
Select the appropriate fasteners for your bustle. Hooks, buttons, and ribbons are the most common choices. Hooks and buttons are typically used for American bustles, while ribbons can be used for French bustles to create a softer look. If using hooks, consider using eye hooks, which provide a secure connection and can be concealed within the seams.
Attaching the Fasteners
Determine the placement of the fasteners by considering the style of the dress and the desired look. For an American bustle, attach the hook or button high up on the train, near the lower back, usually along the centre seam. For a French bustle, place the ribbons or fasteners at the desired points along the waistline or train to create the desired effect. Sew the fasteners securely, possibly adding interfacing underneath for reinforcement.
Creating Button Loops
If using buttons, create button loops with strong thread. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train where you plan to create the button loop. Insert the needle next to the seam line and pull it through the interfacing and train. Create a loop with the thread and secure it with a knot.
Connecting the Bustle
Once the fasteners are in place, connect the bustle by fastening the loops to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of the fabric to create the desired volume and ensure the underside of the skirt is completely off the floor. If using ribbons, tie them securely, creating a neat bow or concealing the knot within the fabric.
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Assigning someone to help
Choose the Right Person
It is recommended to assign a trusted individual such as your maid of honour, another member of the bridal party, or a family member to be in charge of bustling your dress. This person should be someone who is reliable and attentive to details. They should also be able to attend your final dress fittings and alterations appointments.
Communicate Your Expectations
Clearly communicate your expectations to the designated person. Let them know the importance of their role and how it contributes to the overall success of your wedding day. Provide them with any instructions or guidelines given by your seamstress or bridal boutique.
Provide Adequate Training
Ensure that the assigned person attends your dress fittings and alterations appointments to receive hands-on training from your seamstress or bridal boutique staff. They can learn the specific techniques and methods for bustling your particular dress. If possible, have them practice bustling your dress under the guidance of the seamstress.
Prepare an Emergency Kit
In the event of any last-minute issues or adjustments needed, prepare an emergency kit that includes items such as a sewing needle, clear fishing line, safety pins, and any other small tools that might be needed for quick fixes. Provide this kit to the designated person so they can address any unforeseen issues with the bustle on your wedding day.
Create a Timeline
Work with the designated person to create a timeline for bustling your dress on the wedding day. Decide on the specific moment when you would like the bustling to take place, such as between the ceremony and reception or after the first dance. Communicate this timeline to your bridal party and other relevant individuals to ensure a smooth and timely process.
By following these steps and assigning someone to help with bustling your wedding dress, you can ensure that your dress is properly bustled, allowing you to move with ease and showcase the beauty of your gown throughout your special day.
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