Deborah Chan
Wedding dresses are often bustled, meaning the back of the dress is pinned up to lift the train off the floor. This allows the bride to move around with ease, prevents the dress from getting soiled, and reduces the risk of tripping. There are several types of bustles, including the American, Ballroom, French, Royal, and Bow, each of which creates a different look and requires a slightly different technique. This introduction will discuss the various ways to pin up the back of a wedding dress to achieve the desired style and functionality.
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What You'll Learn
Using hooks and loops
Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, but you can sew one on yourself or enlist the help of a seamstress. Hooks and loops are a popular method for pinning up the back of a wedding dress. This method can be used to create a bustle, which lifts the train off the floor and attaches it to the back of the gown, giving the bride freedom of movement.
To create a bustle using hooks and loops, you will need to first lift the train and pin it so that the sides are positioned off the floor and secured to the sides of the dress's back seam. You can use safety pins for this step. Next, fold and pin the train to lift any remaining fabric off the floor. If the train is too long or heavy, you can redistribute the folds into smaller ones. Once the folds are securely pinned, you can remove the pins.
Now it's time to attach the hooks and loops. Sew the hooks or buttons onto the back of the dress wherever you made the pin marks along the waistline. Make sure to stitch securely so that the bustle doesn't come undone. If reinforcement is needed, attach a small piece of interfacing under each hook or button.
To make the loops, place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train. Thread your needle and insert it into the underside of the dress. Pull the thread through and make a small stitch, leaving most of the thread through to create a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Once the loops have been added, you can fasten them to the hooks or buttons, adjusting the folds of fabric to create a voluminous bustle.
If you don't want to sew the loops yourself, you can purchase a Trainloop, which requires no sewing. Simply pin the Trainloop through your dress, and it will hook together when you want to lift up your train.
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Sewing a button on the outside
To sew a button on the outside of a wedding dress, you will need a needle and thread, as well as the button itself. It is recommended to use two needles, a basic sewing needle, and a spacer needle, or a toothpick, pin, or small stick. Try to use a thread that matches the colour of the dress, but in a pinch, black or navy will do. You will need about 12 inches of thread for the whole process, but if you double your threads over to make it stronger and easier to knot, you will need 24 inches.
Place the button on the anchor point, marked with an 'X', and begin sewing by pushing the needle from the back to the front through the first buttonhole. Add the spacer and push the needle up from the underside of the fabric and through one of the holes on the button. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot is snug against the underside of the fabric. Use your fingertip to keep the button in place and turn the needle around, pushing it back down through the hole opposite the one you came up from. Push it all the way through and tug the thread tight. You should be left with a single small line of thread across the button, connecting the two holes. Repeat this process for six passes, three for each set of holes on the button. On your last repetition, come back up through the fabric but not through the button.
If you are using a two-hole button, the process is slightly different. You will need to sew from one hole to the other, then back again, repeating this process three times.
If you are using satin-covered buttons, the process is the same, but if the buttons have a metal shank, the stitch does not need to be as long.
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Creating a French bustle
Firstly, prepare your workspace. Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place a dress form in the middle of the blanket and adjust the measurement settings to about two inches smaller than the measurements of the dress. Put the dress inside out on the dress form. If the dress has a lot of beadwork, put a sheet over the dress form to protect the beadwork.
Next, find the centre seam of the train (the longest point) and flatten the train so you can see how long it is. Find the "floor length" – where the hem of the dress would be if it were floor-length, without a train. Then, measure from the floor-length point to the hem of the train. Place your straight pins at the correct distance apart and check that the pouf will be where you want it. Sew on a pair of ribbons and then sew on a second pair of ribbons parallel to the first pair. Tie the pairs together. The different colours or patterns of ribbons will be helpful for the person tying the bustle on the wedding day.
After installation, checking weight distribution is crucial. The centre seam should be tucked inside, with the side seams meeting together for optimal distribution. For longer trains, distribute the weight among three points instead of one to prevent strain on any single attachment. Remember that even carefully stitched bustles can break during activities, as wedding dresses can be very heavy.
Finally, practice the bustling process several times before the wedding day. Designate a reliable helper and bring them to your final fitting to learn the proper technique. Set aside specific time between your ceremony and reception for bustling, ensuring you are not rushed.
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American vs. Ballroom bustles
A bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift the train off the ground and secure it to the dress. This allows the bride to move around and dance more comfortably during the reception. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle and the ballroom bustle.
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, suits dresses with long trains. It has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, which enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pickup points for an ultra-dramatic look. The American bustle transforms the dress silhouette from the back, making the train disappear.
The ballroom bustle, on the other hand, gives the illusion that the dress was always floor-length, without any alterations. This style completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress. Multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold delicately into itself. This bustle type may even make wedding attendees assume the bride has changed into a shorter dress.
Both the American and ballroom bustles can be achieved by sewing loops and buttons or hooks to the back of the dress. The loops can be made by threading a needle, inserting it into the underside of the dress, and pulling the thread through to create a knot. The buttons or hooks are then sewn wherever the pin marks are made along the waistline. For the American bustle, the loops are placed halfway up the length of the train, while for the ballroom bustle, multiple loops are sewn around the bodice. During the wedding, the bride can then fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks, lifting the train off the floor.
Overall, while the American bustle creates a dramatic look by making the train disappear, the ballroom bustle provides a seamless illusion that the dress is untouched.
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Royal or Victorian styles
A wedding dress bustle is a clever way to alter your gown, lifting the train to allow you to move around and dance without compromising the beauty of your dress. A bustle can be created by pinning, buttoning, or hooking up the train. The royal or Victorian bustle is a dramatic style with beautiful folds that create a princess-like silhouette. Here are some ways to achieve this look:
Royal or Victorian Bustle
The royal or Victorian bustle is a versatile style that can be achieved with one or multiple pickup points. This style is perfect for gowns with full skirts and long trains. It creates elegant folds around the middle of the skirt, lifting the train and adding dimension to the silhouette. The complexity of this bustle can vary depending on the desired look.
French Bustle
The French bustle, also known as the Victorian or under-bustle, is a variation that creates a seamless look. It is achieved by pulling the train fabric up and under the gown, the opposite of the American bustle. Ribbons or hooks are used at each bustle point to secure the fabric and create multiple pickup points for added flair. This style is well-suited for ballgowns and gowns with a natural waistline.
Bow Bustle
The bow bustle is a variation of the American bustle, where the fabric is folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under a statement bow at the back. This style adds symmetry and elegance to the overall look, with the fabric flowing from the focal point of the bow.
American Bustle
The American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, is a simple and versatile style. It is created by lifting the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. This bustle can have one or multiple pickup points, adding drama and flair to the back of the dress.
These are some ways to achieve a royal or Victorian-inspired look by pinning up the back of a wedding dress. The key elements of these styles include lifting the train, creating elegant folds, and adding dimension to the silhouette for a dramatic and princess-worthy look.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle pulls the back of the dress off the ground so it doesn't get dirty and gives the bride freedom of movement.
There are several types of bustles, including the American, Ballroom, French, Royal, Bow, and Wristlet.
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. This can be done by sewing loops and buttons or hooks to the dress.
The French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is the opposite of the American bustle. The train folds under itself instead of over, creating a two-layer hem. Ribbons or hooks can be used to secure the fabric.
The type of bustle you choose will depend on the style and silhouette of your dress. A bridal stylist or seamstress can help you decide which bustle is best suited for your dress.
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