Creating A Wedding Gown Bustle: A Step-By-Step Guide

A wedding dress bustle is an important feature that makes it easier for the bride to walk, dance, and socialise during the reception. The bustle lifts the back of the dress off the ground, preventing it from getting soiled or causing the wearer to trip. There are several types of bustles, including the traditional bustle, French (or under) bustle, and over bustle, each offering a different look and level of visibility. While sewing a wedding dress bustle can be a DIY project, it is important to note that a professional will likely yield better results. This paragraph introduces the topic of creating a wedding gown bustle, highlighting its purpose, variations, and considerations for those looking to add this feature to their wedding dress.

Sewing a basic American bustle

To sew an American bustle, start by measuring the back seam of the train from the waistline to the floor, and then from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the middle of these two distances with a pin. Next, lift the centre back seam and position it against the centre of the waistline, pinning the train so that it is just off the floor. Attach the train to the seam using a pin. Then, lift the sides of the train off the floor and fold and pin them to the sides of the back seam. Repeat this process until the entire train is off the floor.

Now it's time to attach the buttons or hooks. Sew these onto the waistline where you made the pin marks. Be sure to stitch them securely, and add a small piece of interfacing underneath for reinforcement if necessary. Then, make the button loops. Use strong thread and place a small piece of interfacing on the top side of the train where you made the pin marking. Insert the needle at the pin, pull it through the interfacing and train, and make a small backstitch from the right side of the train. Pull the thread to make a loop, and repeat until the loop is big enough to fit the button or hook. Secure the thread to the underside of the dress with several backstitches.

Finally, fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks, and adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller, more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of the exposed buttons or hooks, you can sew lace appliqués on top of them.

Understanding what a bustle is

A bustle is a bridal alteration that allows a bride to walk freely without tripping over her dress throughout the night. It is a process of securing the train, or any extra fabric, off the ground and into the back of the dress. This is achieved by fastening the train to the rest of the dress, creating a shorter hemline.

Bustles are not just for ball gowns or dresses with long trains. In fact, nearly all full-length gowns have hooks, ties, or buttons sewn into the train to create a uniform hemline after the ceremony. There are many types of bustles, including the American bustle, ballroom bustle, French bustle, and Victorian bustle, each with varying levels of difficulty and visual impact.

The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a popular choice as it is simple to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading effect as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. Brides can choose to have one statement pickup or add multiple pickup points for extra flair.

The ballroom bustle is one of the most flattering styles as it completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress. Multiple points are added under the dress for the train to attach to, resulting in the appearance of an untouched, floor-length gown.

The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style. The train folds under itself, creating an understated, two-layer hem that adds design to the back of the dress.

The Victorian bustle, also known as the royal bustle, can be simple or elaborate depending on the desired look. It adds drama and dimension to the silhouette by adding folds and multiple pickup points.

How to bustle for dancing and mingling

Dancing and mingling at a wedding reception are much easier when the wedding gown is bustled. A bustle holds up the train of a wedding dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor, making it easier for the wearer to move around. There are several types of bustles, each with a different look, but all of them serve the same basic function. Here are some tips on how to bustle for dancing and mingling:

The first step is to decide on the type of bustle you prefer. A regular or traditional bustle involves folding the end of the train under the back of the dress, creating a bubble hem and a fuller skirt. This type of bustle is usually easier to create on a full skirt without too much tulle, as the tulle can make it challenging for the dress to fall naturally when bustled. Another option is a French or under bustle, which creates a puffy layer or more at the back of the dress. This type of bustle is very visible and creates a full and puffy effect. If you prefer a simpler option, an over bustle or American bustle may be the best choice. It involves attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or eye hook on the upper part of the back of the dress, usually on the outside. This type of bustle works well for dresses with detailed or embroidered trains since the design will still be visible when bustled.

Once you've decided on the type of bustle, it's time to attach the necessary components. For a regular bustle, attach a tie on the underside seam of the skirt, positioning it so that the hem will be just off the floor when the bustle is completed. Sew an eye hook or button to the end of the train, concealing it as best as possible with embroidery, beading, or decorative elements. For a French bustle, attach ties on the inside and underside of the skirt, with the position of the first tie depending on where you want the puffy area to start. If your train is long or you prefer the look of multiple sections, you can attach several ties at the top inside of the skirt. For an over bustle, attach an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress near the lower back, and attach the lower tie about halfway down the skirt.

After attaching the necessary components, it's time to connect them. For a regular or French bustle, you will need to tuck the back of the skirt up and under the dress and attach the ties or eye hooks together. This will create the puffy effect at the back of the skirt. For an over bustle, simply connect the hook and eye to lift the underside of the skirt off the floor. Ensure that any details on the train are arranged pleasingly.

It's important to note that the number of attachment points and the specific placement of the ties or eye hooks may vary depending on the weight and style of your train. If you're unsure or need assistance, it's best to consult an experienced seamstress who can help you create the perfect bustle for your wedding gown.

Hiding hooks in the dress

When creating a bustle for a wedding dress, hooks and eyes are a common method for fastening the train to the dress. These can be hidden in a number of ways to ensure they are not visible.

One way to hide hooks in a wedding dress is to use a fur closure hook, concealed under a lace motif. This method works well if there is an "extra" detail on the dress, such as a pleat or an additional lace motif, to hide the fastening. Another option is to use a button and a thread loop, with an appliqué placed on top to disguise the loop. Alternatively, a small hole can be left in the centre back seam of the dress, allowing ribbons or other fasteners to be pulled through when needed, keeping the fastening hidden until the time comes to bustle the dress.

If you are unable to find hooks in the correct colour, you can also paint them with nail polish to match the colour of the dress. It is important to ensure that the hooks and eyes are sturdy enough to hold the weight of the train and that they are sewn on securely with strong thread.

Creating a French (or under) bustle

To create a French bustle, start by measuring the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin. Next, lift the centre back seam and position it against the centre of the waistline, pinning the train to the waistline seam. Adjust the fold so that the train is between 1/2" to 3/4" off the floor.

Now, lift the sides of the train off the floor and fold and pin the train along each side of the back seam. Continue to fold and pin the train as necessary between the seams to lift the remaining train off the floor. Once you have finished pinning, remove the pins and sew a length of narrow grosgrain ribbon (around 15") to the waistline of the dress, using the pin marks as a guide. Make sure to sew the ribbon securely into the waistline seam.

Next, cut the ribbon into 2 1/2" pieces and fold them in half, stitching the ribbon loops to the underside of the dress's train. Reinforce the loops with a small piece of interfacing or by attaching them to the seam allowances of the dress. The loops should be attached 1/2" below each pin mark. Repeat this process for all the loops.

To bustle the dress, attach each ribbon to the corresponding loop by inserting the ribbon into the loop and tying a double bow. Plump up the fabric to add volume and create a more dramatic effect.

Frequently asked questions