Streamlining Your Wedding Underskirt: Tips For A Sleek Look

A wedding dress underskirt, also known as a crinoline, petticoat, or bridal slip, is an important accessory for brides. It shapes the wedding dress, enhances the bride's figure, and prevents the dress from wrapping around the bride's feet. While some dresses require an underskirt, others are incompatible with it. For instance, sheath and column dresses with a straight drop from the hip are not suited to underskirts as they are not designed to flare out. On the other hand, A-line, ball gown, and mermaid/fishtail dresses benefit from the flare that an underskirt provides. When choosing an underskirt, it's important to consider the style and size of the dress, as well as the bride's personal preference for the desired shape and volume.

Choosing the right fabric for your underskirt

Type of Fabric

The type of fabric you choose will significantly impact the overall appearance and feel of your underskirt and wedding dress. Some popular options include tulle, crinoline, silk, chiffon, organza, and satin. Tulle and crinoline are great for creating volume and structure, while silk and chiffon are lightweight and breathable. Satin has a sleek, shiny finish and is often used for more formal weddings.

Colour of the Fabric

It is essential to select a fabric colour that matches your wedding dress to enhance the overall look. For example, if you have a white wedding dress, choosing a white underskirt will ensure a seamless appearance.

Comfort

Comfort is crucial when selecting the fabric for your underskirt, as you will be wearing it for an extended period. Choose soft and comfortable materials such as nylon or polyester that will feel pleasant against your skin throughout the day.

Durability

Consider the durability of the fabric, especially if your wedding dress has intricate details or embellishments. Some fabrics, like chiffon, can be fragile and may not withstand extensive wear or heavy decorations.

Wedding Theme

Your wedding theme can also guide your fabric choice. For example, a rustic or farm-style wedding may call for cotton or lace fabrics, while a formal wedding may be better suited to satin or taffeta. If you're having a beach or outdoor wedding, lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon are ideal.

Personal Preference

Ultimately, choosing the right fabric for your underskirt comes down to your personal preference and style. Consider your wedding theme, dress style, and comfort level to make an informed decision.

Underskirts are an essential part of a wedding dress, and selecting the right fabric will ensure you feel confident and comfortable on your special day.

Measuring and cutting the fabric

Measure Your Waist and Length:

Start by measuring your natural waist, which is the narrowest point of your torso, typically an inch or two above your belly button. This measurement will be essential for creating a snug-fitting underskirt waistband. Additionally, measure the desired length of your underskirt. For a typical wedding underskirt, measure from your waist to the desired hem length.

Choose Your Fabric:

Select a fabric that complements the style and colour of your wedding dress. Tulle, crinoline, and nylon are popular choices for underskirts, with tulle offering more colour options and crinoline providing more structure. Consider the volume and fullness you want to achieve, as stiffer fabrics will create a puffier effect.

Add Seam Allowance:

When determining the length of your underskirt, remember to add a seam allowance to your measurements. Typically, you'll want to add a few inches (5-10 cm) to the desired length to account for creating a hem and attaching the waistband. This extra fabric will ensure a comfortable fit and allow for any adjustments you may wish to make.

Cut the Fabric:

Using fabric scissors, carefully cut the fabric according to your measurements. Cut out a rectangle with a width that corresponds to your hip measurement (or the desired fullness) and a length that includes the added seam allowance. If you're using a stiff fabric like crinoline, be extra precise with your cuts to avoid any unevenness.

Create the Waistband:

Measure and cut a strip of fabric for the waistband. The width of the strip should be twice the desired width of your finished waistband, plus seam allowances. For example, if you want a 2-inch wide waistband, cut a strip that is 5 inches wide (including seam allowances). Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch along the edge to create a tube.

Attach the Waistband:

Pin the waistband to the top edge of your underskirt fabric, with right sides together. Stitch them together, using a stretch stitch if your fabric has lycra or elastic. Leave an opening of a few inches to insert elastic into the waistband.

Insert the Elastic:

Cut a length of elastic that corresponds to your waist measurement. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and use it to guide the elastic through the waistband tube. Overlap the ends of the elastic by an inch and stitch them together securely. Close the opening of the waistband by stitching it shut.

Create the Hem:

Finish the raw edge of the underskirt fabric by folding and pressing the hem. You can create a narrow hem or a deeper one, depending on your preference. Sew the hem in place, ensuring that the stitch is strong enough to withstand the weight of the fabric.

Remember to handle your fabric with care during the cutting and stitching process. It's always a good idea to test your measurements and techniques on similar fabric scraps before cutting into your final fabric. This will ensure that your wedding underskirt fits perfectly and complements your wedding dress beautifully.

Creating a petticoat

Planning and Measuring:

Before you start, decide on the length and number of layers your petticoat will have. The length should be about one inch shorter than the skirt or dress you plan to wear it with. For the number of layers, you'll need around 4 yards of fabric for each layer. Tulle is a great option for a stiff and puffy petticoat, but you can also use chiffon for a softer, less itchy feel.

Next, measure the skirt or dress you'll be wearing the petticoat with, from the waist seam to the bottom hem. Subtract 1 inch from this measurement, and then divide the new number by 3. Now, add 1 inch back for the seams, and you'll get the width for each of the three tiers of your petticoat.

Cutting the Fabric:

Based on your measurements, cut out the fabric for each tier. You'll need one 2-yard piece for the top tier, one 4-yard piece for the middle tier, and two 4-yard pieces for the bottom tier, which you will sew together. If you want to add a ribbon trim to the bottom hem, cut an 8-yard length of 1-inch wide satin ribbon.

Assembling the Tiers:

Start by sewing the two 4-yard pieces together for the bottom tier, using a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch for a neater look. If you're adding a ribbon trim, fold and pin the ribbon over the bottom edge of the fabric, then sew it in place.

Next, sew the ends of the bottom tier together to form a ring, with the right sides facing in and the seams facing out. Use a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance, and finish the raw edges. Repeat this process with the 4-yard piece for the middle tier.

For the top tier, hem the narrow edges by folding them by 1/4 inch and sewing them down. Alternatively, you can use ribbon for a nicer finish.

Gathering the Tiers:

On the top edge of the bottom tier, sew two rows of straight stitches, one with a 1/4-inch seam allowance and the other with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Use a long stitch length and low tension for easier gathering. Gather the fabric until it matches the circumference of the middle tier, then knot and cut the excess thread.

Now, pin the bottom and middle tiers together, with the right sides facing each other, and sew along the top edge with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Fold the seam against the middle tier and topstitch it down with a zigzag stitch. Repeat this process with the middle and top tiers.

Finishing the Petticoat:

Gather the top edge of the top tier to match your waist measurement. Cut a piece of twill tape 3 to 4 inches longer than your waist size, hem the ends, and fold and pin it over the top edge of the petticoat. Sew the twill tape in place, then add hooks and eyes for the closure.

And there you have it! Your very own petticoat, ready to be worn under your favourite skirt or dress to add that extra volume and flair.

The benefits of wearing an underskirt

If you have a large, princess-style dress, an underskirt is essential to achieving the desired full, fairytale effect. Most A-line and all ball gown dresses require an underskirt, as do many fit-and-flare, trumpet, mermaid, and fishtail gowns. These more form-fitting dresses require an underskirt that flares out from the knee rather than the waist.

Underskirts are available in various sizes and lengths to accommodate different dress styles and body types. They can be pulled higher or lower, and some are designed specifically for 50s/60s style dresses or taller brides.

How to insert a hoop into your underskirt

To insert a hoop into your underskirt, follow these steps:

Firstly, carefully remove your underskirt from its packaging and lay it flat on the floor. Shake it out and flip it over so that you can see the inside. Next, find the hoop channel(s) and locate the colour-coded tab(s). These tabs will help you identify which hoop goes into which channel.

Now, carefully remove the hoop(s) from the packaging. WARNING: They tend to unravel quickly and pop open! Unwrap the hoop(s) and lay them on the floor. Do not remove the plastic end covers.

If you have only one hoop, begin to insert the hoop wire into the opening indicated by the tab. If you have two hoops, locate the smallest hoop channel first (this is the one higher up the underskirt), find its coloured tab, and match it with the coloured end on the corresponding hoop wire. Begin to insert the hoop carefully into the opening.

Carefully feed the wire through the channel. You will see the underskirt begin to take shape. When the wire has gone all the way around the channel back to the starting point, you will notice that there is still some wire remaining. This is correct and doesn’t mean you have an incorrectly sized hoop. Help the wire that’s already inside the channel past the opening seams and across to the other side. This allows you to continue pushing the excess wire through the channel until both ends are inside and overlapping.

If you have only one hoop, you may lift it up and shake it out. Your underskirt is now ready to wear. If you have two hoops, you now need to locate your second hoop opening, which will be closer to the bottom of your underskirt. Check that the coloured tab matches the coloured ends of your remaining hoop wire, and repeat the previous steps.

You may now lift your two-hooped underskirt up and give it a shake. Your two-hooped underskirt is now ready to wear.

Frequently asked questions