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There are many ways to hook up or bustle a wedding dress train. The type of hook-up or bustling method depends on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and personal style preferences. Some common methods include using hooks and eyes, buttons, loops, ribbons, or a combination of these. For example, the American bustle or 'over bustle' uses hooks or buttons at the waistline or the start of the skirt flare, while the French bustle has buttons sewn underneath the inside of the dress skirt to form pick-ups or tiers. Another option is to use a wrist loop to carry the train, which is suitable for heavier fabrics or fuller skirts. Ultimately, it is important to consult a skilled seamstress who can recommend the best type of hook-up or bustling method for your wedding dress.
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What You'll Learn
Using hooks and eyes
Hooks and eyes are a commonly used method to hook up or bustle a wedding dress train. They are inconspicuous, secure, and easy to sew.
To begin, place the hook on the underside of the right side of the fabric, about 1/8 inch away from the fabric's edge. If your garment has two seams that overlap, the hook should be on the overlay, and you will put the eye on the underlay. However, if the seams abut side by side, the single curved loop of the eye should face the edge of the garment, while the double loops should face away.
Thread a needle with 16-18 inches of thread that matches or coordinates with the fabric. Pass the needle through the fabric's underside and into one of the loops. Ensure the stitch does not show on the outside of the garment. Next, pass the needle through one of the loops on the hook and pull the thread taut until the knot is secure against the underside of the fabric. This is called "popping" the knot. Repeat this process to sew the loops of the hook and eye, ensuring the eye is placed so that it will connect with the hook.
After sewing the loops, stabilize the hook and eye by stitching down the top part, just beneath the curved part of the hook, and the sides of the eye, just below the top curve. If you prefer, you can create a thread bar instead of using an eye. Thread bars are nearly invisible, more comfortable to wear, and blend in with the fabric, but they are not as strong as metal bars. To create a thread bar, thread your needle, knot it, and wax the thread. Hide the knot beneath the fabric and take two tiny stabilizing stitches. Determine the width of the bar by considering the thickness of the hook and make it slightly wider than the hook.
There are several ways to attach the bar. One method is to sew buttonhole stitches across the length of the bar. Slide the needle under the bar, pick up the loop of thread, slip it over the needle, and pull it taut. Repeat this process until the bar is covered. Alternatively, you can wrap the thread around the bar to create a spiral bar, which will be thinner but not as sturdy. If you want your hook to lie flush with the garment, you can fasten it to a handmade eyelet. However, keep in mind that an eyelet cannot be undone, so always make a test sample first. To make an eyelet, sew a running stitch in a circle through all layers of fabric, making it the exact size you want the finished eyelet to be.
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Adding buttons
If you want to add buttons to your wedding dress, it is recommended to reach out to a seamstress who specialises in wedding gowns. You can add buttons to a dress with a zipper, but the zipper should be unzipped first. If you want the buttons to be functional, you can add small elastic loops to fasten the buttons. This will ensure that the buttons lie flat and do not look like they are just added on.
When adding buttons, it is important to use button thread, which is thicker than normal thread. You can also add buttons to a shoulder shawl or cape to customise your wedding dress further and make it uniquely yours.
For a couture finishing detail, you can add a waist stay inside the dress. This involves adding a ribbon at the waist inside the dress, with loose ends that have their own closure. This helps to keep the dress in place when it is being worn and can be hooked first before someone buttons up the back of the dress.
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Using a wrist loop
A wrist loop is a great way to hook up your wedding dress train, especially if you want to do it without any assistance. It is also a good option if you want to keep your hands free and don't want a hoop around your wrist.
A wrist loop can be added to your dress if it has a train. You can buy a wrist loop train bracelet or make your own by getting a nice piece of silk cord or something similar and hand sewing it onto the underneath of your dress. You can attach it about an inch back from the very back of the train, being careful not to pierce through the top layer of fabric. When you pick up your dress by the wrist loop, both the under layer and the top layer will be picked up.
If you are buying a wrist loop bracelet, make sure you check the production time, especially if you have an urgent order. You can also check with the seller if they can fulfil your order by a certain date.
If you are making your own, you can add a wrist loop to your dress so that the train can be arranged easily and spread out for pictures. This can look more romantic and nicer in photographs than a bustled dress.
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Sewing ribbon ties
Firstly, decide on the placement of the ribbon ties. You can sew them inside the dress, at the bottom of the zip, or along the back seam under the train. This will allow you to tie the hoop up and pull it up and under the dress.
Next, cut the ribbons to the desired length. You will need two ribbons of equal length for each tie. The length will depend on the size of the loop you want to create and the distance from the zip or seam to the desired hooking point.
Then, pin the ribbons securely in place. You may want to ask a friend or family member to help you with this step to ensure the ribbons are placed correctly.
Now, carefully sew the ribbons onto the dress. You can use a matching thread colour to ensure that the stitches blend in with the dress. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of each ribbon to secure the stitches.
Finally, tie a knot at the end of each ribbon to prevent it from fraying. You can also add a drop of clear nail polish or fabric glue to the knot for extra security.
Some additional tips to consider:
- You can use a square knot instead of an overhand knot to start the bow. This will ensure that the knot stays secure even if the bow comes loose.
- If you want to hide the ribbons, consider using a similar colour to your dress or even a matching fabric.
- You can also add decorative elements, such as beaded appliques, to the ribbons to enhance the overall look of your dress.
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Choosing the right bustle
Trust the Experts: Bridal stylists and seamstresses are skilled in recommending the best type of bustle for your dress. They will consider the silhouette, amount of fabric, and your desired look. It is essential to involve them early in the process and follow their recommendations.
Consider the Dress Silhouette: Different bustle styles pair well with specific dress silhouettes. For example, an American bustle (or over bustle) with hooks or buttons at the waistline or skirt flare can add a dramatic effect to a full skirt. On the other hand, a sleek, plain gown may be better suited to hidden hooks or buttons to maintain its sleek lines.
Functionality vs. Aesthetics: While the primary purpose of a bustle is functional, allowing you to move and dance freely, it can also add style to your bridal look. Consider the number of bustle points you need to support the train's weight and create the desired look. More bustle points can create an ultra-dramatic or draped effect.
Prepare for Emergencies: Despite your seamstress's best efforts, bustles can break during the reception due to the weight of the dress. It is essential to be prepared with an emergency kit containing safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line. Having a designated person, such as a bridesmaid, who knows how to fix the bustle can also ensure a quick resolution.
Practice Makes Perfect: Ensure that you give yourself enough time between the ceremony and reception to bustle your dress. It is a good idea to delegate the task of dress bustling to a trusted individual, such as a bridesmaid or family member. Have them attend your final alterations appointment to learn the process and practice before the big day.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to hook up a wedding dress train, including hooks, buttons, loops, ties, and ribbons. The best option for your dress will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the fabric, the length of the train, and your personal style. For example, hooks and eyes are a good option if you want to hide the fastening mechanism, while a wrist loop is a good option if your dress is made of heavy fabric or has a full skirt.
If you want to hide the hooks on your wedding dress, you can use fur hooks, which can be hidden under a lace motif or unsewn part of the lace fabric. Alternatively, you can use thread loops to attach the hooks, which can be made with embroidery cotton or crochet thread.
A bustle is a style of hooking up a wedding dress train that adds drama and dimension to the silhouette of the gown. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, ballroom bustle, and royal bustle. To create a bustle on your wedding dress, you can sew hooks, ties, or buttons onto the back of your dress at the waistline or the start of the skirt flare. You can also add multiple pickup points down and across the back of the dress for more detail.
