Rhiannon Hendricks
Wedding dresses with ruffles are trendy, dramatic, and feminine. They can be vintage, modern, edgy, or regal. If you're thinking of sewing your own wedding dress with cascading ruffles, you'll need to know how to measure and cut your fabric, sew the ruffles together, and attach them to your dress. To make the ruffles cascade, the outer edge of the ruffle must be longer than the inner edge attached to the garment. You can cut a strip of fabric on a curve to achieve this. For more extreme ruffles, the outer edge should be about five times longer than the inner edge.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Tulle, organza, lace, silk |
| Style | Mermaid, A-line, ball gown, column, boho, vintage |
| Details | Cascading, tiered, ruffled, beaded, embroidered, horsehair trim, crystal |
| Hemming | Rolled hem on an overlocker, or rolled-hemming |
| Volume | Subtle and slim or full and fabulous |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the fabric
When choosing the fabric for your cascading ruffle wedding dress, it's important to consider the style and silhouette you want to achieve. The fabric you choose will impact the overall look and feel of the dress, so selecting the right one is crucial. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the fabric for your dream wedding dress:
Fabric Type and Characteristics: Different fabrics offer unique characteristics that can enhance the design of your dress. For cascading ruffles, lightweight and airy fabrics like tulle, organza, and chiffon are popular choices due to their ability to create a fluid and effortless look. These fabrics are known for their sheer and transparent qualities, adding a romantic and ethereal touch to the dress.
Personal Style and Comfort: Your wedding dress should reflect your personal style and make you feel comfortable and confident. Consider the level of formality, the season of your wedding, and your skin sensitivity when selecting the fabric. For example, if you're having a beach wedding, chiffon can be a great choice to keep you cool. On the other hand, silk provides a luxurious feel and graceful style, while Mikado silk offers a structured look that holds its shape.
Fabric Weight and Volume: The weight and volume of the fabric will influence the overall silhouette of your dress. If you prefer a more subtle and slim look, opt for lightweight fabrics with delicate cascading ruffles. On the other hand, if you desire a fuller and more dramatic silhouette, fabrics like tulle and organza can be layered to create volume and a show-stopping effect.
Embellishments and Accents: Embellishments such as lace, beading, and embroidery can be added to your chosen fabric to create a unique and romantic look. Lace, in particular, offers a timeless and classic style, with various types like Chantilly and Guipure lace providing different patterns and motifs. Beading and sequins paired with tulle can also create an iridescent effect as you walk down the aisle.
Fabric Colour: Consider the colour palette of your wedding and whether you want your dress to be traditional white or ivory, or perhaps incorporate a hint of colour. Tulle, for example, comes in various colours like blush and pale blue, allowing you to add a subtle touch of colour to your dress.
By considering these factors and combining different fabrics and embellishments, you can create a cascading ruffle wedding dress that embodies your personal style and makes you feel like a dream on your special day.
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Cutting the fabric
To create cascading ruffles for a wedding dress, you'll need to carefully cut your chosen fabric. The type of fabric you select will depend on the volume and silhouette you wish to achieve. For a lightweight, airy, and effortless look, consider fabrics like tulle and organza. For a more structured and defined ruffle, horsehair edging can be used to keep each layer distinct.
When cutting the fabric, it's important to decide on the width of each ruffle and the length you want it to cascade. The width of the ruffle can be adjusted to suit your preference and the overall design of the dress. A narrower width will create a more subtle ruffle, while a wider width will result in a more dramatic effect.
The length of the ruffle will determine how much it cascades or flares out. To achieve the cascading effect, the outer edge of the ruffle should be longer than the inner edge attached to the garment. This can be achieved by cutting the fabric on a curve. The degree of curve will depend on the desired volume of the ruffle. For a more extreme ruffle, the outer edge can be cut to be approximately five times longer than the inner edge.
It's important to calculate the required length of the ruffle before cutting, especially considering that fabric can be expensive. One method is to think of the ruffle as a section of a circle. By deciding on the width and the desired ratio of outer to inner edge length, you can plan the cut to ensure the ruffles drape nicely and achieve the desired volume.
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Sewing the ruffles together
When sewing the ruffles together, it is essential to calculate the required length of each ruffle before cutting the fabric. This can be done by deciding on the desired width of the ruffle and the ratio between the outer and inner edges. The fabric can then be cut in a curved shape, forming a section of a circle, to achieve the desired length for the outer edge.
After cutting the fabric, the ruffles can be sewn together along the inner edge, creating a smooth attachment to the garment. It is important to consider the hemming technique for the ruffles, as the curved shape can make hemming more challenging. One option is to use a rolled hem on an overlocker, which provides a clean finish but may not be preferred by all.
Additionally, when sewing the ruffles together, it is essential to maintain consistency in the width of the ruffles to ensure a harmonious look. The spacing between each ruffle should also be considered to achieve the desired overall effect. Closer spacing will create a fuller and more textured appearance, while wider spacing will result in a more subtle and delicate look.
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Attaching ruffles to the dress
Attaching ruffles to a wedding dress can be done in several ways, and the method you choose will depend on the style of your dress and the type of ruffle you want to create. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to attach ruffles to a wedding dress, with some additional tips and tricks for creating cascading ruffles:
Preparing the Ruffle Strips:
Before attaching the ruffles to the dress, you need to prepare the ruffle strips. Cut fabric strips that are longer than the edge you plan to sew them to. The extra length will be used to create volume by gathering the edge of the ruffle. Cut enough strips to reach the desired length for your ruffles.
Sewing the Ruffle Strips:
Join the ruffle strips together to form one long strip. Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine or serger (overlocker) to attach the strips, with a seam allowance of about 1/4". You can also hand-sew these seams if you prefer. If you are adding ruffles to a smaller area like a cuff or neckline, remember to add seam allowances to each end of the strips.
Hemming the Ruffle:
Some people prefer to hem the ruffle while it is still flat, before attaching it to the dress. To do this, fold the raw edge of the ruffle up by a certain amount (depending on your desired hem size) and sew it in place. You can use a narrow hem, such as a rolled hem, for a delicate finish.
Gathering the Ruffle:
Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and sew two rows of gathering thread. Sew one row 1/4" in from the raw edge, and another row 1/2" in along the long edge. Leave long tails at both ends and do not backstitch. You will use these threads to gather the ruffle and adjust the volume.
Attaching the Ruffle to the Dress:
Lay the dress flat and mark the raw edge where it folds on both sides (imagining side seams). Use these marks to align the top edge of the ruffle with the bottom edge of the dress. Pin the ruffle and dress together at the notional side seam markings, centre front, and centre back. Then, work around each quarter, pinning and adjusting the gathers for an even look. Once you are satisfied, sew the top of the ruffle to the dress, finishing the seam with your preferred method.
Additional Tips for Cascading Ruffles:
When creating cascading ruffles, consider the weight of your fabric. Lightweight fabrics can be gathered more tightly than heavyweight fabrics. Additionally, you can use a gathering foot or a ruffler foot attachment for your sewing machine to speed up the gathering process. However, these may result in excess fabric if the ruffle is gathered less than expected.
Remember to take your time and work with the fabric to create the desired volume and drape for your cascading ruffles.
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Hemming the ruffles
To attach the ruffle hem evenly to the bottom of the dress, lay the dress flat and mark the raw edge where it folds on both sides. These marks will be used to align the top edge of the ruffle to the bottom edge of the dress. Place the dress and ruffle RST (right sides together) and pin at the notional side seam markings, then pin at the centre front and centre back. Then, work around each quarter of the rest of the ruffle edge, pinning and evening out the gathers as you go. The ruffle pieces should be the same length as the bottom edge of the dress. Once satisfied, sew the top of the ruffle to the dress and finish the seam. This can be done using a sewing machine, or by sewing and serging, or simply serging.
To create a denser ruffle, you can opt for twice the length of the hem. This requires measuring the hem from one side seam to the other and doubling that length. For an even denser ruffle, double that length again to get the final length of the fabric strip. For instance, if your dress measures 35" flat, you would require a 140" strip of fabric for a 2x ruffle. If your fabric is shorter than the required length, you can cut multiple strips and join them at the raw edges to form a loop.
It is recommended to hem the ruffle strip before attaching it to the dress. Press up a double 5/8" hem and sew it with a long stitch length and a 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam open and tuck the tails inside the hem. Using an edging foot, edgestitch the hem down all the way around and press again. Identify the bobbin threads on the rows of gathering stitches and gently pull from one end, evening out the gathers as you go.
To create a dramatic and full ruffle, you can triple the bottom measurement instead of doubling it. This will result in a wider, fuller, and heavier ruffle. Sew together the required number of pieces of ruffle fabric to achieve the desired width, and then hem or serge it. To attach the ruffles, divide the bottom into equal sections, usually eight, by marking each side with a pin. Line up the pins and mark the centre front and back with pins to create four equal quadrants. Place four more pins at the halfway points between the previously pinned spots to complete the octopod. The goal is to gather the extra ruffle fabric evenly between each set of pins. Create small folds with the ruffle fabric until you reach the next pin, remove the pin, and continue sewing. Ensure that the dress fabric lays flat beneath the ruffles and folds. Keep the folds and tucks small, ranging from 1/4" to 1/2", and leave some space between the folds. Continue this process until you reach the starting point, where you can backstitch or chain off to complete the seam.
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Frequently asked questions
Cascading ruffles are a popular design element that is often used in many different garments, from dresses to skirts and even shirts. They are a strip of material, an individual motif, or a frill made with a gathered or pleated fold.
The fabric you use for your ruffles will determine the weight and volume of your gown. For a lightweight and airy dress, consider using tulle or organza. For a stiffer ruffle, you can use horsehair trim.
For your ruffles to cascade, the outer (free) edge must be longer than the inner edge (attached to the garment). To achieve this, cut your fabric on a curve, creating a section of a circle. First, decide on the width of your ruffle, then decide on the length of the outer edge compared to the inner edge.
You can sew the ruffles together and then attach them to your dress. You can use a rolled hem on an overlocker in a matching or contrasting thread for minimum hassle.
