Creating A Simple Wedding Gown: A Step-By-Step Guide

Making your own wedding dress is a challenging but rewarding task. It is important to start with a clear vision of the desired style and silhouette, and to choose a pattern and fabric that complement the wedding setting, season, and the bride's personality and body shape. The process involves taking precise measurements, creating a mock-up dress for adjustments, and carefully sewing the final product. With dedication and attention to detail, it is possible to create a beautiful and unique wedding gown.

Choosing the silhouette

• If you have an hourglass figure, you can choose any silhouette you like, from mermaid to ball gown.
• Pear-shaped bodies usually look better in A-line and ball gown silhouettes.
• Apple-shaped figures typically suit empire waist dresses.
• Rectangular figures look good in trumpet and empire waist silhouettes.
• Petite brides often look best in sheath silhouettes.

It is also important to consider the setting and season of your wedding when choosing your silhouette. For example, if you are having a beach wedding, you may want to opt for a soft, light, and flowy silhouette and fabric. If you are getting married in a grand cathedral, consider the season and choose a silhouette and fabric that will keep you comfortable.

Finally, don't forget to try on different silhouettes to see what looks best on you. You may be surprised by the styles that flatter your body type.

Selecting the fabric

Type of Fabric

The type of fabric you choose will depend on the silhouette and style of your dress. Different fabrics drape and flow differently, so it's important to consider the desired look of your gown. For example, empire waist gowns often feature flowing fabrics like chiffon or silk, while ball gowns often use tulle. Other popular fabric options for wedding dresses include jersey, moire, organza, satin, and taffeta. Consider the weight and texture of the fabric, as well as how it will move and drape on your body.

Colour

Traditionally, wedding dresses are white, but there are many shades of white to choose from, such as ivory, cream, off-white, pure white, and silk white. Each hue complements different complexions, so it's important to consider your skin tone when selecting the colour. However, you don't have to stick to white; pastel colours like powder, pink, and peach are trendy, and some brides choose non-traditional colours like red, purple, or blue.

Quality and Cost

Fabric quality and cost are also important considerations. Real silk, for example, is very expensive, especially since wedding dresses require a lot of fabric. Polyester is a less costly alternative that is easier to maintain and doesn't wrinkle as easily as silk. Rayon is another affordable option that drapes well and comes in many shades. If you're on a tight budget, consider the cost of the fabric and whether you need to opt for more affordable alternatives.

Embellishments

You may also want to consider adding embellishments to your fabric, such as lace appliques, pearls, sequins, beads, or satin ribbons. These details can enhance the overall look of your gown and make it more unique. If you plan to add embellishments, make sure to factor them into your budget and choose a fabric that complements them well.

Lining

Don't forget to choose a suitable lining fabric for your wedding dress. The bodice of a wedding dress is usually lined, and the skirt is often lined as well. The lining provides support, improves the dress's structure, and enhances comfort. Cotton batiste, china silk, rayon, polyester, or silk are commonly used for lining, depending on the outer fabric and desired level of comfort.

Underlining

Underlining is optional but can be useful if you want to add extra support or remove transparency from a sheer fabric. Cotton, poly-cotton blend, silk organza, or cotton organdy are commonly used for underlining.

Amount of Fabric Needed

Finally, consider the amount of fabric you will need. Wedding dresses typically require a significant amount of fabric, especially if you're creating a full skirt or train. Measure yourself accurately and consult a fabric specialist to ensure you purchase enough fabric for your gown.

Sketching the design

Determine the Style and Silhouette:

Start by choosing a style and silhouette that complements your body shape. Consider your body type and select a design that flatters your figure. Common silhouettes include A-line, ball gown, empire waist, trumpet, and sheath. If you're unsure, try on different styles to see what works best for you.

Choose a Neckline and Waistline:

Decide on the type of neckline and waistline you want for your gown. For the neckline, you can opt for a sweetheart, V-neck, or halter style, among others. As for the waistline, you might choose a natural waist, dropped waist, or a corseted style. Sketch the front and back views of the gown, paying attention to these details.

Select the Skirt and Sleeve Types:

Decide on the style of the skirt. Do you want a full ball gown skirt, a sleek column skirt, or perhaps a fit-and-flare silhouette? Also, consider the length of the train, whether you want a dramatic cathedral-length train or a more modest sweep train. Choose the sleeve type that suits your style and comfort, ranging from long, billowy sleeves to cap sleeves or even sleeveless designs.

Add Embellishments:

Enhance your gown with embellishments like lace appliques, bows, pearls, sequins, or beading. You can also incorporate satin ribbons, lace trims, or other decorative elements to add interest and texture to your dress.

Consider the Fabric and Colour:

When sketching your design, keep in mind the type of fabric you plan to use. Different fabrics drape and flow differently, so choose a fabric that suits the style of your gown. Common wedding dress fabrics include chiffon, silk, satin, and tulle. Additionally, decide on the colour of your gown. While white is traditional, you can also explore shades like ivory, cream, or even venture into pastel hues or bolder colours like red or purple.

Make a Detailed Sketch:

Using your inspiration and the elements you've chosen, create a detailed sketch of your dream wedding gown. Draw the front and back views, including any special details or embellishments. You can use a simple sketchbook and colour pencils to bring your design to life. Play around with different combinations of bodice, skirt, and sleeve styles until you find the perfect harmony.

Remember, this is your special day, and your wedding gown should reflect your unique style and personality. Don't be afraid to be creative and make adjustments until you're completely happy with the design. Happy sketching!

Taking measurements

Bust

Measure at the fullest part of your chest. Be sure to wear the bra you plan to wear on your wedding day. You should wear nothing on top of the bra when taking this measurement.

Hips

Stand with your heels together in a relaxed, natural position. Measure the fullest part of your hips, ensuring you go full circle.

Waist

Measure at the smallest part of your waist, which is typically about 1 inch above your belly button. Do not pull in your stomach or pull the tape too tight – you want an accurate representation of your natural shape.

Hollow to Hem

This measurement is taken from right above the collarbone down to where you want the bottom hem of the dress to fall. Be sure to account for the height of the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day.

Taking accurate measurements is crucial to ensure your wedding gown fits perfectly. It is worth taking your time and seeking assistance if needed to get this step right.

Cutting the fabric

Firstly, lay the pieces of your chosen pattern onto the fabric. Use straight pins to secure the pattern to the fabric. It is important to ensure that the inside of the fabric is facing up. Follow the pattern closely when cutting the fabric to get the right size and shape for your dress. If you plan to add pleats to your dress, remember to cut extra fabric.

When cutting the fabric, it is essential to leave some seam allowance. Typically, 1.5 inches is the standard allowance to follow. This extra fabric is crucial for making adjustments and ensuring a perfect fit.

If you are working with lace fabric, cut the lace flowers attached to the panel individually, leaving a small seam allowance. This technique ensures that the lace flowers remain whole and can be carefully positioned to overlap neighbouring panels, creating a seamless look.

For a more efficient use of fabric, cut the fabric in a way that minimises waste. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and then cut them out carefully. This process ensures that you get the most out of your fabric and saves costs.

Before cutting, it is advisable to create a muslin mock-up of the dress. This step allows for adjustments and ensures that you are happy with the design before cutting into the expensive bridal fabric. The muslin mock-up is a trial run, allowing for tugging, stretching, cutting, and pinning until you achieve the desired fit.

Additionally, consider the grain direction of the fabric. Aligning the grain direction for all panels can prevent puckering and ensure a smooth finish.

Finally, remember to cut the fabric using sharp tools like a rotary cutter and a cutting mat. This ensures clean cuts and minimises fraying.

Frequently asked questions