Crafting A Russian Wedding Ring: A Step-By-Step Guide

Russian wedding rings are beautiful and playful pieces of jewellery. They are traditionally made from three interlocking bands of rose, yellow and white gold, but can also be made from silver. The process of making a Russian wedding ring involves cutting, shaping, soldering and polishing the metal. The ring is made from three separate bands, each made slightly larger than the desired size to account for the thickness of the other rings. The ends of the bands are then cut and linked together before being soldered and polished to create a comfortable ring that rolls smoothly around the finger.

Choosing the right wire shape and size

When selecting the wire size, consider the ring size you want to achieve. The wire thickness will impact the final size of your ring, so it's crucial to account for this in your calculations. The formula for determining the wire length is the internal diameter of your desired ring size, plus twice the wire thickness. However, for Russian wedding rings, you must also account for the thickness of the additional rings. Therefore, you should add an extra wire thickness for each ring. For example, if you're making a size O ring with 2.5mm D-shaped wire, the calculation would be 58mm + (2*2.5mm) + (2*2.5mm) = 68mm.

It's worth noting that some jewellers suggest increasing the ring size by three to five sizes to accommodate the multiple rings. However, this approach may not always account for the specific ring measurements and wire thickness you're using. Thus, it's recommended to use the formula mentioned above to ensure a precise fit.

Sizing the rings

Determining the Correct Ring Size

To determine the correct ring size for a Russian wedding ring, you need to start by measuring the internal diameter of the desired ring size. This measurement can be found on a ring sizing chart or a ring sizer. Once you have the internal diameter measurement, you can use the following formula provided by jewellery maker Jinks McGrath:

> For a normal ring, cut a piece of wire equal to the internal diameter of the desired size, plus twice the thickness of the wire.

So, for example, if you are making a size O ring with 2.5mm thick wire, the length of wire you need would be: 58mm (internal diameter of size O) + (2 * 2.5mm) = 63mm.

Accounting for the Interlocking Rings

When making a Russian wedding ring, you need to account for the thickness of the additional rings that will pass through each ring. So, to the formula above, you need to add an extra thickness for each additional ring. Using the previous example, for a size O ring with 2.5mm thick wire in a Russian wedding ring style, the calculation would be:

58mm (internal diameter of size O) + (2 * 2.5mm) + (2 * 2.5mm) = 68mm.

This calculation ensures that the rings will fit comfortably and be able to roll around the finger without being too tight.

Choosing the Right Wire Size

The wire size you choose will also impact the final size of your Russian wedding ring. It is recommended to use D-shaped wire for Russian wedding rings, as flat wire can sometimes catch the skin between the rings as they roll. The thickness of the wire will determine how much you need to adjust the ring size. Thicker wire will result in a wider ring, which may require going up a size to account for the additional width. For example, if you are using 1.5mm thick wire, you may need to go up a size, especially if your ring size is between two standard sizes.

Testing and Adjusting the Size

It is always a good idea to test the size of your Russian wedding ring before finalising the solder joints. You can do this by linking the rings together and trying them on. If the ring feels too tight, you can carefully stretch the rings slightly to enlarge them. If they are too big, you may need to cut and reshape the wire to make them smaller.

Tips for Successful Sizing

• Practice with a cheaper metal before using gold or silver to perfect your sizing technique.
• Always allow for a snug fit, as the rings tend to cling to the fingers, and rolling them over each other is how the ring is removed.
• If you are making the rings in gold, consider going up a size, as resizing gold rings would involve dismantling the whole piece.
• If you are new to ring-making, consider taking a silversmithing class or following online tutorials to learn the basics of soldering and shaping wire.
• Always measure twice and cut once to avoid wasting materials.

By following these instructions and tips, you should be able to size your Russian wedding ring correctly and create a beautiful and comfortable piece of jewellery.

Soldering equipment

To make a Russian wedding ring, you will need to solder the metal together. There are a variety of soldering tools and equipment available for jewellery making, and it is important to choose the right ones to successfully solder your pieces without causing damage.

Soldering Irons

For small-scale work like making pendants, a soldering iron is a good option. Irons are available in a range of wattages, from 60W to 120W, and temperatures, from 180-520°C to 356-932°F. Irons with adjustable temperatures are ideal for hobbyists and jewellery makers, as they allow for more precise control over the soldering process. Some irons also feature a digital display, automatic sleep mode, and temperature calibration support.

Soldering Torches

For soldering good quality metal jewellery, a soldering torch is recommended. A small butane or propane torch can be used for silver or gold soldering on small pieces. For thicker metals, a larger hand torch is needed.

Soldering Kits

For those new to soldering, a soldering kit is a good option as it contains all the essential tools and equipment needed to get started. A basic kit may include a soldering iron, stand, solder wire or paste, a desoldering pump, and a sponge. More advanced kits may also include a helping hand with a magnifying glass, soldering blocks, flux, and different types of solder.

Soldering Blocks and Sheets

When soldering jewellery, it is important to use a durable surface that can hold heat for longer, such as a soldering block or sheet. Honeycomb boards and soldering sheets are acid-resistant and can reach temperatures of up to 1093°C.

Other Equipment

Other equipment that may be useful for soldering jewellery includes mouth-blown torches, ultrasonic small baskets, heating tools, and soldering fluid.

Preparing the single rings

To prepare the single rings, you will need to cut the D-shaped wire into three equal lengths. The length of each wire will depend on the size of the ring you want to make. A formula to calculate the length is:

> Internal diameter of the desired ring size + (X2) thickness of the wire + (X2) thickness of an additional ring

For example, if you are using 1.3mm wire to make a size Q ring, the calculation would be: 57.15mm + (X2) 1.3mm + (X2) 1.3mm = 63mm.

Once you have cut the wire to the correct length, you will need to file the ends of the wire to ensure they are square and will meet neatly when bent into a ring shape. Use a flat file and check with an engineer's square to ensure the ends are straight.

Next, form each piece of wire into a U shape, then flip the ends so they form a "C" shape. Ensure the ends meet neatly, with no gaps, and use pliers to gently push and wiggle the wire into place if needed.

Now, solder each ring closed. Position the rings with the joins at the front, so you can see the front of the joints. Brush the front of the rings with flux, then place a small piece of hard solder on the inside of each joint. Heat the rings with a blowtorch until the flux dries and the solder melts, then brush the front of the rings again to ensure a strong solder joint.

Finally, quench the rings in water to cool them, then clean them in a mild acid solution to remove any oxidation.

Shaping, filing and sanding

The next step is to file and sand the rings. This is done to ensure the ends of the rings are square and meet neatly, creating a strong solder joint. A flat file should be used, with a forward motion, to file the ends of the wire. An engineer's square can be used to check that the ends are square. Once the ends are square, the rings can be shaped into a "D" shape by flipping the ends so they form a straight section. The ends should be bent with nylon pliers to avoid marking the wire.

Once the rings are shaped, they can be soldered closed. Before soldering, the rings should be placed with the joins at the front so that the solder can be brushed onto the front of the ring, which is the hottest part. This will create a strong solder joint. After soldering, the rings should be quenched and cleaned with emery paper to remove any excess solder.

Frequently asked questions