Junior Rasmussen
Adding panels to a wedding dress is a great way to adjust the fit, increase the fullness of the skirt, or add a pop of colour. The process involves placing the dress on a clean, flat surface, planning the number and placement of panels, and carefully removing seams if necessary. The fabric for the panels should match the dress as closely as possible, and straight, tight seams can be achieved with a sewing machine or needle and thread. It is important to prepare your sewing space with the necessary tools and to wash and dry the dress before sewing. A panel dress is made of multiple panels stitched together, creating a flared look that drapes beautifully, especially with flowy fabrics like chiffon or crepe.
Characteristics and Values Table for Making a Panel for a Wedding Dress
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To make a dress bigger, smaller, or more comfortable |
| Fabric | Choose a fabric that matches the dress or coordinates with it. For a flowy dress, use a flowy fabric like chiffon or crepe. |
| Tools | Sharp scissors, a seam ripper, pins, a needle and thread, or a sewing machine |
| Preparation | Wash and dry the dress, clear a large table, and plan the number of panels and their placement |
| Cutting Fabric | Cut fabric to the appropriate length and width, with an excess of one inch on each side for hems. Cut out sleeve pieces and join them to the arm lines. |
| Sewing | Stitch fabric panels together, ensuring straight, tight seams. Sew side seams of the lining and main dress separately for better drape. |
| Ironing | Press seams with an iron to ensure the new panel flows with the rest of the dress. Use the recommended temperature to avoid scorching the fabric. |
| Fit | Try on the dress to ensure a comfortable fit, especially if panels are added to increase size. |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the fabric
When choosing the fabric for your wedding dress, it is essential to consider your personal style, the formality of the celebration, the season, and the style and silhouette of the gown. The fabric can significantly impact the aesthetic and fit of the dress, so it is crucial to select the right one. Here are some popular fabric options for wedding dresses:
Silk
Silk is a luxurious and elegant fabric often used for dramatic ball gowns or fit-and-flare styles. It can range from highly structured and stiff to light and airy, depending on how it is woven. Mikado, for example, is a thicker silk blend that is perfect for structured gowns, while chiffon is an ultra-lightweight silk fabric suitable for flowing styles.
Satin
Satin is a delicate and luxurious textile with a slight sheen, creating a classy and modern look. It is not a raw material but a weaving pattern made from fibres like silk, nylon, or polyester. Popular types of satin include silk satin, charmeuse satin, duchess satin, and crepe back satin.
Tulle
Tulle is a stiff, transparent netting made from nylon, silk, polyester, or a blend of fibres. It is perfect for creating voluminous skirts and fairytale-inspired looks. Tulle skirts are often paired with lace, sequins, or beading and can add fullness to the gown.
Organza
Organza is a sheer fabric similar to tulle but less stiff. It is traditionally made from woven silk and creates a soft, lightweight, and flowing wedding dress. Organza is perfect for adding volume and drama without too much weight.
Crepe
Crepe is a mid-weight silk-blend fabric that clings to the body and drapes beautifully. It is an excellent choice for brides who want to accentuate their curves and is commonly used for sheath or fit-and-flare silhouettes. Crepe is also popular for minimalist wedding dresses due to its crisp and sleek appearance.
When adding panels to a wedding dress, it is essential to choose a fabric that matches the dress as closely as possible. If an exact match is not available, select a coordinating fabric or use fabric from previous alterations, such as large hems. Additionally, consider the weight and texture of the fabric to ensure it aligns with the desired silhouette and style of your wedding dress.
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Planning the number and placement of panels
When planning the placement of panels, it is essential to consider the overall design and fit of the dress. If you are adding panels to the skirt, you can create a flared effect by stitching together multiple panels of flowy fabric such as chiffon or crepe. For a more subtle look, match the fabric of the panels to that of the dress, or choose a coordinating fabric if an exact match is not possible. If you are skilled at sewing, you can also add panels to the bodice to increase the dress size.
Before making any cuts or alterations, lay the dress on a clean, flat surface and plan the placement of each panel. This includes marking the width and height of each panel to ensure a precise fit. If you are adding panels to the sides of the dress, consider using square panels, which can be inserted by releasing the seams, adding the new panel, and sewing the pieces together. For a seamless finish, use straight, tight seams and choose a thread colour that blends with the fabric.
Additionally, consider the overall balance and proportions of the dress when planning the number and placement of panels. The panels should enhance the flare and drape of the dress without adding bulk to the waist. To achieve this, you can opt for a raised waistline or experiment with different types of waistlines to find the most flattering silhouette. Remember to work slowly and carefully when stitching the panels together, and always press the seams with an iron to ensure a smooth and seamless finish.
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Cutting the fabric
Planning and Preparation:
Before cutting any fabric, it is essential to plan the number of panels needed and their placement on the dress. This will help determine the required fabric length and width. It is also important to ensure that you have a clean, flat work surface with enough room to maneuver the dress without causing accidents like stains or tears.
When cutting the fabric, use sharp scissors to achieve straight, even cuts, creating a professional look. Cut the fabric with about one inch of excess fabric on each side for hems. This excess fabric will be used for pinning and stitching the panel to the gown. If you are creating a triangle panel, as sometimes used for modesty panels, fold the fabric in half before cutting to ensure a clean top edge without the need for hemming.
Matching the Fabric:
For a seamless look, use fabric that is the same as the dress or choose a coordinating material if the exact match is not available. If using leftover fabric from previous alterations, such as large hems, ensure it is an exact match. If not, take a fabric sample to your local store to find the closest match, making the additional panel less noticeable.
Cutting the Dress:
If you are removing seams to insert panels, use a seam ripper to carefully detach one panel at a time. Work slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the dress.
Lining the Dress:
When lining a dress, you will need additional fabric. Place the lining on top of the stitched panels after cutting the bodice to your size. Then, trace the outline and cut the lining. The lining does not need to have as much flare as the outer fabric since it is sewn separately.
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Sewing the panels
Sewing panels to a wedding dress can be a great way to adjust the size, increase the fullness of the skirt, or add a pop of colour. The process can be quite complex and is not recommended for beginner sewists. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing panels into a wedding dress:
Planning and Preparation:
Before you begin sewing, it is important to plan the number of panels you need and where you want them placed. Clear a large table and lay your dress on it, ensuring you have enough space to work without causing accidents such as stains or rips. If the dress is new, consider washing and drying it first to soften the fabric and make it easier to work with.
Removing Seams:
Using a seam ripper, carefully remove the seams one panel at a time, starting with the panel you plan to replace or adjust. Work slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the surrounding fabric.
Cutting the Fabric:
Determine the length and width of the fabric panels you will need, adding an extra inch on each side for hems. Cut your fabric panels accordingly, ensuring straight and even cuts. If you are adding a panel to the bodice, consider using a square panel, and if you are adding a panel to the skirt, a triangle panel may be more suitable.
Pinning and Stitching:
Turn the skirt of your gown inside out and pin the fabric panel in place, inserting pins where you plan to stitch. If you are joining the centre panel to the side panels, ensure the tapering sides are on the outside. Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, start sewing from the shoulder seam outwards. Work slowly and carefully when making your stitches and hems to ensure they are straight and tight.
Finishing Touches:
Trim any excess fabric so that the skirt lies smooth, and press the seams with an iron to ensure the new panel flows seamlessly with the rest of the dress. Be sure to ask your fabric or dress store about the recommended iron temperature to avoid scorching the fabric. If you are adding multiple panels, repeat the process for each panel, ensuring a consistent finish.
By carefully following these steps, you can successfully sew panels into your wedding dress to achieve the desired fit and style.
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Pressing the seams
- Use the right tools: A pressing ham and a sleeve roll are two specialized tools that can be extremely helpful when pressing seams. A pressing ham has one side in cotton and the other in wool, and its curved shape can be useful for pressing seams on various parts of a dress, such as princess seams, hips, and sleeve caps. A sleeve roll can be inserted inside sleeves to prevent unwanted creases and is also useful for pressing seams on delicate or thin fabrics.
- Follow the sewing pattern instructions: Most sewing patterns will include pressing instructions, such as "press seams open" or "press to one side." It is important to follow these instructions as you sew, as seams can be tricky to press correctly if left until the end.
- Press seams flat: Before opening the seam, press it flat to remove any puckers or tension issues. Then, gently open the seam with your fingers and "finger press" it open without stretching.
- Use steam: Run the tip of the iron along the fabric with some steam to encourage the seam to open, then follow up by pressing the seam fully open and flat. When pressing with an iron, use an up-and-down motion rather than vigorously ironing back and forth to avoid unwanted stretching.
- Press from both sides: Start by pressing from the wrong side, then turn the fabric and press from the right side. This helps to ensure that the seam is properly set and that any puckers or tension issues are removed.
- Prevent seam show-through: If using two different fabrics, press to the side of the darker fabric to prevent the seam from showing through from the front. Additionally, when pressing seams on delicate or thin fabrics, you can use a piece of thin card as a pressing tool to prevent the seam edge from showing through to the right side.
- Be cautious with delicate fabrics: Delicate fabrics such as silk and satin are prone to water spots and heat damage. If possible, steaming is recommended over ironing for these fabrics. If ironing is necessary, use a clean cloth between the iron and the fabric, keep the iron on the lowest setting, and avoid letting the iron touch the fabric directly.
- Plan ahead: If making a wedding dress, it is recommended to steam the dress the night before the wedding to allow any wrinkles to smooth out and the fabric to settle. This avoids last-minute rushing and ensures the dress looks its best on the big day.
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Frequently asked questions
To make a panel for a wedding dress, you will need to first plan how many panels you need and where you want them to be placed. Next, cut your fabric into the desired shape and size, leaving an excess of one inch on each side for hems. Then, pin the fabric panel to the gown, inserting pins where you plan to stitch. Finally, stitch the fabric together along the hems.
A panel dress is made by stitching together multiple panels of fabric. To create a panel dress, you will first need to cut out the pattern pieces for the front and back bodice, marking the length of the bodice according to your waist measurement. You will then need to cut out the sleeve pieces and join them to the armline, ensuring that the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Next, stitch together the side seams of the lining and the main dress, before joining the front and back bodice pieces to the skirt pieces. Finally, hem the dress as desired.
Adding panels to a wedding dress can be done to make a dress larger, increase the fullness of the skirt, or add colour. To add panels to a wedding dress, first lay the dress on a clean, flat surface and plan where you want to place the panels. Then, remove any necessary seams using a seam ripper. Cut your fabric to the appropriate size and shape, allowing for excess fabric for hems, and pin it to the dress. Finally, stitch the fabric together, trim any excess fabric, and press the seams with an iron to ensure a smooth finish.
