Lyla Dejesus
Creating a lace wedding dress skirt is a challenging but rewarding endeavour. It requires a careful approach, from selecting the right lace fabric to employing specific sewing techniques. Achieving a seamless finish is crucial, especially when working with translucent lace, as visible seams can detract from the overall elegance of the dress. To create a lace overlay, one must decide whether to use a pattern or experiment with creating unique flounces. The process involves marking seam lines, carefully cutting lace motifs, and stitching them in place, ensuring that the lace contours are trimmed neatly. A floating lace layer, for instance, necessitates an appliqué seam, where lace is zig-zagged around the pattern and excess material is trimmed away.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Techniques | Lace invisible seam, appliqué seam, zig-zag stitch, straight stitch, embroidery, scalloped edge |
| Materials | Lace, spandex, tulle, cotton French lace, stretch lace, mesh, silk crepe, scalloped lace, elastic |
| Tools | Clover Flower Head Pins, sharp scissors, thread snips, Free Motion Quilting foot, pen, elastic thread, bobbin, sewing machine |
| Tips | Use a dressform, mark pattern lines with contrast-color basting stitch, cut lace motifs, overlap stitching lines, cut edging off lace first, use a pattern, attach skirt below the waist |
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What You'll Learn
Using lace as an overlay
If you're looking to make a lace wedding dress skirt, one option is to use lace as an overlay. This can be done by attaching the lace directly to the seams of the dress or using a dress form to ensure the fabric is lined up correctly.
To create a lace overlay, you can use a cheap dress with the right shape and add a custom bodice with an illusion lace neckline. This allows you to achieve the desired neckline and incorporate interesting lace details.
When working with lace, it's important to use sharp tools as the fabric is delicate, and dull tools can cause snags. You can use a lace invisible seam technique to sew lace seams without straight-line seam allowances, as they will show through translucent fabric. First, mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-color basting stitch along each stitch line. Then, line up the stitching lines, overlapping the pieces. Finally, cut along the edge of the lace motif, stitch it in place, and sew the skirt fabric together using the lace invisible seam method.
Additionally, consider the type of lace you will be using. If your lace has a border, and you want to use it as the bottom hem of your skirt, you can stitch the skirt pattern pieces together at the hem and then lay them out. Place your lace on top, aligning the lace border with the bottom hem edge of the pattern pieces. To mark the seam lines, use a line of blue thread, which will not actually sew anything together. After basting each seam line, cut between the panels, overlapping the blue thread seam lines. Decide which motifs to sew down and which to trim away.
If you want to create a floating lace layer, avoid using a normal seam, as raw edges will be visible through the fabric. Instead, consider an appliqué seam, where you zig-zag around the shapes of the pattern and trim away the excess close to the seam.
For a unique touch, consider using stretch lace as an overlay, which can add comfort and a beautiful drape to your skirt. You can also experiment with different fabrics like silk crepe and a wide lace trim with a scalloped edge for a sophisticated look.
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Creating invisible seams
Planning and Preparation:
Before beginning the construction of the skirt, it is essential to plan the approach on paper. Adapt the skirt pattern shapes to utilise the lace border effectively, considering the hemline and any necessary adjustments. It is crucial to work with sharp tools to avoid snags and damage to the delicate fabric.
Marking the Seam Lines:
Begin by marking the seam lines on the lace. Use a contrast-colour basting stitch, such as blue thread, to run along each stitch line. This provides a clear guideline for the next steps without actually sewing anything together.
Cutting and Overlapping:
Once the seam lines are basted, carefully cut between the panels, following a meandering path around the motifs. Overlap the fabric, aligning the blue thread seam lines. Decide which motifs to sew down and which to trim away, ensuring a seamless transition between the panels.
Sewing and Stitching:
After overlapping the panels, sew along the motifs, following the cutting path. Trim away any excess material on the back to restore the lace to a single layer. This process creates invisible seams by blending the stitching lines with the motifs and minimising their visibility.
Disguising Seams:
If there are sections without motifs, resulting in visible mesh-to-mesh seams, disguise them by using motifs. Hand stitch the motifs onto the dress form to fill in blank spots and direct the eye across the body, creating a sculpting effect. This technique helps to ensure that the seams blend seamlessly into the overall design of the skirt.
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Using a pattern
If you're using a pattern, it's a good idea to select your fabric first. For the outer part of the skirt, you can use lace, but you will need to add a lining. Natural materials such as viscose are recommended for the lining, as synthetic fabrics may be uncomfortable in warm weather.
Once you have your fabric, cut two pieces from each pattern piece: one from the lining fabric and one from the lace. You can cut the lining fabric according to the "mini" version of the pattern, and the lace according to the "above-the-knee" version, to create a lace overlay effect. If you want your skirt to be longer, you can adapt the pattern accordingly.
Before cutting, consider the direction of the lace pattern. If your lace has a border, you may want to use it as the bottom hem of your skirt. In this case, you can stitch the skirt pattern pieces together at the hem, lay them out, and place your lace on top, lining up the border with the bottom hem edge.
After cutting the pieces, lay each piece of lace on top of the corresponding piece of lining fabric, with the right sides of each fabric facing up. Smooth the fabrics and pin them together around the edges.
Now you're ready to sew the pieces together. Follow the instructions that come with your pattern, and be sure to smooth each piece of lace as you go. When sewing lace, it's important to use sharp tools to avoid snags in the delicate fabric. A Microtex needle is recommended for sewing with lace, as it is super sharp and won't snag the fabric.
Finally, you'll need to hem the skirt. You can use the finished edge of the lace as the hem, or create a small rolled hem by hand or machine.
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Hemming techniques
Hemming a lace wedding dress skirt can be a challenging task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be done successfully. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for hemming a lace wedding dress skirt:
Invisible Lace Seam Method:
- Mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-color basting stitch along each stitch line.
- Line up the stitching lines, overlapping the pieces.
- Cut along the edge of the lace motif, then stitch it in place.
- Lay out the skirt fabric and sew it together using the lace invisible seam method, marking the seam lines with coloured thread.
Lace Overlay with Scalloped Edge:
- Cut strips of fabric 2" by as long as possible, cutting on the bias.
- Sew the right side of the bias lace to the wrong side of your hem with a 3/8" seam allowance and a straight stitch.
- Press the seam allowance towards the bias lace.
- Fold the bias lace raw edge up to meet the seam allowance.
Using Hem Tape:
- Fold the raw edge of the lace up to the height of the hem tape.
- Press the hem in place to stick the two sides of the fabric together.
- Sew a straight stitch 1/8" from the raw edge all around the skirt.
Bias Binding:
- Use pre-made bias binding instead of lace to bind the edge.
- Open the bias binding and fold it around the raw edge of the lace.
- Sew with a straight stitch along the top edge of the bias binding to secure it to the lace.
- Press well for a subtle, almost invisible hem.
Appliqué Seam:
- Zig-zag stitch around the shapes of the pattern.
- Trim away the excess fabric close to the seam.
- This technique is useful for joining lace seamlessly and is commonly used for wedding dresses.
When working with lace, it is important to use sharp tools to avoid snags and tears in the delicate fabric. Additionally, test different techniques on small scraps of fabric before beginning your project to ensure the best results.
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Choosing the right lace
Lace is a versatile fabric that can be used in a variety of ways to create a unique bridal look. When choosing the right lace for your wedding dress skirt, there are several factors to consider, from the type of lace to the overall aesthetic you wish to achieve. Here are some tips to help you select the perfect lace for your dream wedding dress.
Different Types of Lace
The type of lace you choose will depend on your personal style and the overall look you envision for your wedding dress. Here are some popular types of lace to consider:
- Alençon Lace: This intricate needle lace originates from Alençon, France, and is often referred to as the "Queen of Lace". It is characterised by a twisted corded outline that creates a defined look. Alençon lace typically features floral designs, scrolls, and medallions, and can be beaded for a sparkling effect.
- Chantilly Lace: Chantilly lace is a delicate bobbin lace named after the town of Chantilly in France. It is known for its intricate floral patterns, giving it a feminine and ethereal look. Chantilly lace is perfect for creating overlays or appliques on wedding dresses, adding a touch of elegance and luxury.
- Venice Lace: Venice lace, also known as Venetian lace or Guipure, is a dense and intricate lace created by embroidered stitches on a fabric that disappears when completed. It does not use netting, resulting in a very delicate lace fabric. Venice lace offers a wide range of patterns, from vintage to Boho designs, making it a romantic and luxurious choice for wedding dresses.
- Point D'Esprit Lace: This is the simplest type of lace, characterised by woven dots on sheer tulle. Point D'Esprit lace can be used for a bodice, layered in a skirt, or as a veil, offering a modern and simple look while still incorporating lace.
- Embroidered Lace: Embroidered lace is bold and dimensional, designed to make a statement. Delicate patterns are tightly stitched onto an illusion base, creating the appearance of an applique. Embroidered lace is perfect for brides who want to stand out and add depth to their wedding dress.
Aesthetic Considerations
Lace can be used to achieve various aesthetics, from timeless and classic to contemporary and chic. Consider the overall style of your wedding and the look you want to portray. Lace can be vintage or modern, depending on the pattern and how it is made. Handmade lace, for example, may be more suitable for smaller lace details, while machine-made lace is better for larger areas or even an entire gown.
Additionally, lace can be embellished with sequins, beads, or other sparkly elements to add glamour and luxury to your bridal look. Lace with metallic threading or beading can create an ornate and regal appearance. If you prefer a subtle accent, lace can be used as an overlay to add dimension to your wedding dress.
Flattering Your Figure
Lace is a versatile and adaptable fabric that can flatter all body types. Consider the silhouette of your dream dress and how you want it to contour your figure. A heavier beaded lace, for instance, can hug the body and minimise certain areas, while a slinkier fabric like silk may highlight them.
Practical Considerations
When choosing the right lace, it is essential to consider the practicality of the fabric. Lace is known for its wrinkle-resistant properties, making it an excellent choice for a destination wedding. Additionally, consider the comfort of the lace, especially if you plan to wear it for an extended period. Softer laces, such as knit lace, can be more comfortable and flexible, allowing for ease of movement throughout your special day.
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