Expanding Gold Wedding Bands: Sizing Up Your Ring

If your wedding ring is feeling a little tight, there are a few ways to make it bigger. It's important to note that you shouldn't try to resize it yourself, as this could ruin or break your ring. Instead, consult a professional jeweller who can safely and inexpensively resize your ring. The process will depend on the type of ring you have, but typically, jewellers will either add extra metal or stretch the existing band. For example, if your ring has gemstones, the jeweller will likely cut into the metal and add an extra piece of metal to make it bigger. On the other hand, if your ring is a plain band, the jeweller may simply heat and stretch the metal.

Adding extra metal

To make a gold wedding ring bigger, you can add extra metal to its band. This process, known as ring shanking, involves cutting the ring's shank and adding a bridge of gold to achieve the larger size. The jeweller will pull apart the two sides of the ring, adding a bridge by soldering the extra metal. The surface is then smoothed and polished to blend the seams. This method can be used to enlarge a ring by a few sizes, but it is more expensive than other methods and requires the expertise of a seasoned jeweller.

The process of adding extra metal to a ring band should be done carefully to avoid damaging the ring. The jeweller will need to cut the ring with precision and then pull it apart to the desired size. They will then fill the gap with additional metal, ensuring a secure fit. This technique is best suited for rings made of softer metals like gold or silver, as more durable metals like platinum or titanium may require a full shank replacement.

When adding extra metal to a ring, it is important to consider the design of the ring. If the ring has intricate details or gemstones along the band, resizing may be more challenging and could affect the ring's integrity. In such cases, it is crucial to consult an expert jeweller who has experience in ring resizing and repair. They will be able to assess whether adding extra metal is the best approach or if other methods, such as ring stretching or adding a ring guard, would be more suitable.

Additionally, the thickness of the ring band can impact the resizing process. Thicker bands may allow for more significant size adjustments, while thinner bands might become weaker if resized too much. The presence of diamonds or other gemstones on the band can also make the process more complicated and expensive. It is recommended to consult with a jeweller to determine the best approach for resizing your specific ring.

When choosing a jeweller to perform the ring resizing, it is essential to select a reputable and experienced professional. Look for a jeweller who specialises in jewellery repair and has expertise in working with gold rings. Consider seeking referrals from friends or colleagues, or opt for a locally-owned jewellery store with knowledgeable staff or owner-operators. Avoid mall-based jewellery stores, as they may not have a professional jeweller on-site.

Stretching

If you wish to stretch a plain gold wedding ring, you can do it yourself or engage a professional jeweller. Here are some commonly used tools and methods for stretching a ring:

Using a Mandrel and Rawhide Mallet

This is one of the simplest and most traditional ways to stretch a ring. It is important to note that this method is suitable only for sizing a ring by a small amount, typically up to half a size larger. A steel mandrel and a rawhide mallet are required for this process. First, set the ring onto the steel mandrel to check the size. If the ring needs to be sized up by more than half a size, a different method should be used. Using the rawhide mallet, start pounding the ring gently, ensuring that you do not repeatedly strike the same spot. If the ring has no gems or diamonds, you can hit all sides equally. However, if there are mountings or gemstones, only strike the lower half of the shank, staying away from the gemstones. With each strike, the ring will be forced down onto the larger part of the mandrel, stretching the metal. After about a dozen strikes, the ring should be approximately 1/8 size larger. Once the ring is close to fitting, turn it over on the mandrel to ensure both sides are stretched evenly. Finally, you can polish the ring to a bright shine or simply wear it if there is a pattern or finish you wish to preserve.

Using a Rathburn Ring Stretcher

The Rathburn ring stretcher is a small and lightweight device used by professional jewellers to adjust plain bands. It consists of three parts: a base, a ring holder, and a tapered shaft. To use this device, place the nylon base on a solid surface, such as a bench, with the shaft and ring holder on top. Place the ring onto the holder, pushing it down as far as it will go by hand. Strike firmly on the top of the shaft while holding the device upright. The tapered shaft will force the ring to open wider with each strike. After a few hits, pause to check the size and push the ring down to the next larger position. Typically, the ring will increase by 1/4 size with about 10 strikes. To ensure even sizing, turn the ring over and stretch the other side as well. After stretching, it is recommended to polish the ring or replace its finish.

Using a Ring Mandrel

A steel ring mandrel can also be used to stretch a ring. Place the ring on the narrow end of the mandrel, sliding it down as far as it goes without forcing it. Hold the mandrel firmly while tapping the ring with a wooden mallet, rawhide hammer, or jeweller's hammer on all sides evenly. Always tap the top of the ring, not the side, to avoid distorting its shape. Check the ring size after tapping a full circle around it, then turn the ring and continue tapping on the other side. Repeat this process until you achieve the desired size.

Using a 360-Degree Ball-Joint Ring Mandrel with Bench Vise

This setup is a convenient alternative to a standard steel mandrel. The mandrel is attached to a table, allowing for hands-free manipulation. Since the mandrel can move a full 360 degrees, you can tap the ring at any angle. This setup accommodates ring sizes from 1 to 15.

Using a Stone Set Ring Stretcher

This machine is specifically designed for stretching rings with mounted diamonds or gemstones. It works best on rings where the shank is not drastically tapered. To use this machine, mount it to a solid surface, such as a bench or desk. Select the die size that matches the shape and width of your ring, ensuring that you only match the "bottom" size of the ring, which is the side away from the gems. Insert the correct die size, and hold the ring by hand on the opposing smooth metal side. Tighten the handle until it touches the ring, then begin rolling the handle back and forth, tightening it slightly with each roll. The ring should increase by 1/4 size after a few sequences. It is important to note that you should only work on the lower half of the ring, staying away from the upper side and the thicker part.

Using a mallet

Firstly, you will need to lubricate the ring with soap and slide it onto a ring mandrel. A ring mandrel is a graduated metal cone used for sizing rings, which can be easily purchased online. Ensure that the ring is evenly coated with soap before placing it on the mandrel.

Next, gently tap the ring with a wooden mallet or a jeweller's hammer. The strikes should be firm yet gentle, and at a downward angle, with the aim of moving the ring further down the mandrel. Remember to turn the ring as you strike to ensure even stretching. If you have access to a vice, securing the mandrel will make this process easier. If you only have a carpenter's hammer, cover the ring with a soft cloth to prevent damage.

Once you have finished stretching the ring, remove it from the mandrel and try it on. If it still feels too tight, repeat the process until you achieve the desired fit. It is important to note that this method can typically only stretch a ring by half a size. Additionally, if the ring gets stuck on the mandrel, strike upwards with the mallet to dislodge it.

Using pliers

Now, let's get into the steps for using pliers to make your gold wedding ring bigger:

Step 1: Put on the Ring and Mark the Center of the Band

Don't force the ring onto your finger if it's too tight. Instead, place it just above your knuckle and use a marker to mark the underside of the ring along its center. This will help guide your cut and ensure it's straight.

Step 2: Cut the Ring Along the Mark

For this step, you'll need a pair of wire cutters or pliers with a cutting edge. Place the cutters or pliers along the line you drew and apply smooth, even pressure to ensure a straight and clean cut. Go slowly to avoid any accidental slips.

Step 3: Gently Bend the Ring Open

Using flat-nose pliers, gently bend the ring open, working on both sides of the cut to keep it as even as possible. Take your time with this step to avoid putting too much pressure on the metal, which could cause it to snap. Move the pliers around the ring as you work to create a better shape and minimize the risk of breakage.

Step 4: File the Cut Edges

Use a metalworking file to smooth down the cut edges. Alternatively, you can use a nail file, but it will take longer. Make sure the ends are flat and smooth so that they don't scratch your finger. You can also use a nail buffer to further smooth the edges after filing.

Step 5: Try on the Ring to Check the Size

The ring should now fit comfortably on your finger without being too tight or loose. The open edges shouldn't dig into your finger when you move it. If the ring is still too tight, remove it and carefully widen it further with the pliers, repeating the previous steps as needed.

Tips and Precautions:

• Always work gently and avoid bending the ring too much in one place.
• Bending the ring in multiple spots and moving the pliers around will help you achieve a better shape and reduce the risk of breakage.
• Make sure to file the cut edges thoroughly to prevent the ring from scratching your finger when putting it on or taking it off.

While using pliers to resize a ring can be a viable option, it's important to remember that this method may not be suitable for all rings, especially those with intricate designs or certain types of materials. If you're unsure or if your ring is valuable, it's always best to consult a professional jeweler to avoid any damage.

Using a ring guard

If you're looking for a quick, temporary fix, a plastic ring guard is a good option. These typically come in a coil, spring, or tube form and can be slipped onto the ring's band to reduce its inner circumference. They are usually available in clear or neutral colours, making them a discreet choice.

It's important to note that while ring guards are a good short-term solution, they should not be worn for too long as they can damage the band of your ring over time.

Frequently asked questions