Building A Crispy, Creamy Croquembouche Wedding Cake

A croquembouche wedding cake is a cone-shaped tower of cream puffs, otherwise known as choux buns, bound or drizzled with caramel. The name croquembouche is derived from the French for crunch in the mouth. It is a classic French dessert that was originally served only on the medieval tables of French royalty and nobility, but now it is a popular alternative wedding cake. A croquembouche is a true test of a pastry chef's skill and typically consists of a cone or pyramid of choux buns with a light crunch on the outside, soft in the middle, and filled with a delicious cream known as 'crème patissier' or pastry cream.

How to make the choux buns

To make the choux buns, you will need 1 cup (16 tablespoons) of unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon of Kosher salt, 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar, 2 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour, and 10 to 11 large eggs at room temperature. You will also need two sturdy baking sheets and a piping bag.

First, bring 2 cups of water, 1 cup of unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of sugar to a boil in a large pot, stirring to combine. Once it has reached a boil, turn off the heat and add the flour. Stir the mixture vigorously over medium-high heat until it comes together in a ball, a thin crust develops at the bottom of the pan, and the dough pulls away from the sides. This process should take about 3 minutes.

Next, transfer the dough to an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat the dough on medium-high speed to release steam and cool it down, which should take about a minute. Once the dough has stopped steaming, add the eggs one at a time, allowing the dough to come back together before adding the next. The dough will look broken after each addition of egg, but it will come back together as the ingredients reach the same temperature.

After adding the 10th egg, check the batter. You should be able to draw a line through it with your finger, and it should slowly fill in. If it is too dry, add another egg and test again. The dough should be smooth and glossy but somewhat elastic.

Now, prepare a piping bag by cutting a 1/2-inch circle tip. If you don't have a piping bag, you can use a resealable bag. Prepare two baking sheets by piping a small dot of batter on each corner, then line with parchment paper, pressing it to the batter to adhere. This will prevent the paper from flying up in the oven.

Pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds by holding the pastry bag straight up, about 1/2 inch above the paper, and gently squeeze without moving the bag. When you reach the desired size, quickly twist and flick the bag so you have a more flat-topped mound than a peak. Pipe about 20 to 25 mounds per baking sheet.

Bake the mounds for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 375 F and bake for an additional 35 minutes, or until the puffs are well-browned and cooked through. Rotate the baking sheets and switch the rack positions halfway through baking. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

How to make pastry cream

To make the pastry cream for a croquembouche, you will need the following ingredients:

• 4 large egg yolks (at room temperature)
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 cups whole milk

First, whisk together the egg yolks, cornstarch, salt, and vanilla extract in a medium bowl. In a separate saucepan, heat the milk and sugar over medium-high heat until tiny bubbles begin to form around the edges. Slowly pour the scalded milk into the egg mixture, whisking continuously to temper. Return the liquid to the pot and continue whisking over medium-high heat until it starts to bubble and thicken. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, gently pressing it directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Chill the pastry cream for about 2 hours, or until it is cold. Once chilled, whisk or stir vigorously with a rubber spatula until smooth. Place the pastry cream into a piping bag fitted with a 1/3-inch circle piping tip.

This pastry cream can be made ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

How to assemble the croquembouche

To assemble the croquembouche, start by making a cone out of a large sheet of poster board or construction paper. The cone should be about 18 inches high with a 6-inch base. Cut off any excess paper at the bottom so that the cone stands up straight. Cover the cone with parchment paper and secure it with tape. Spray two pieces of parchment paper with cooking spray and place them on a serving platter. Place the cone on the parchment paper to keep the platter clean while you build the croquembouche.

Next, make the caramel. Place 3 cups of granulated white sugar and 1/2 cup of water in a small saucepan and stir to combine. Cook over medium-high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel turns a light golden brown. Be careful not to stir the mixture, as this can cause the sugar to crystallize. Once the caramel is ready, carefully dip the tops of each cream puff into the caramel and place them on the side of the cone, starting at the bottom. Continue building each layer before moving upwards. You can dip one side of the puffs in a little caramel to help them stick together.

If the caramel becomes too hard to work with, simply reheat it over medium-low heat until it loosens. Once the entire tower is built, let the caramel cool slightly until threads form when you lift a fork out of it. Dip the fork into the caramel and quickly swirl it around the croquembouche to create a web of caramel strands. Repeat this process as many times as you like to create a decorative effect. Allow the caramel to cool and set completely before serving.

The croquembouche should be served and enjoyed on the day of assembly, as the cream puffs will lose their crunchiness over time.

How to decorate a croquembouche

There are several ways to decorate a croquembouche. Each couple will have a different style, depending on the theme or colour scheme of their wedding. Here are some ideas to enhance the look of a croquembouche:

• Fresh flowers
• Ribbon or organza
• Fairy lights
• Fresh fruit
• A drizzle of chocolate
• A string of pearls
• Colourful macarons
• Iced motifs such as butterflies or flowers
• Powdered sugar
• Edible glitter
• Caramel threads
• Candied almonds
• Edible flowers
• Pearl sugar

How to cut and serve a croquembouche

There are several ways to cut and serve a croquembouche, depending on the texture of the glaze and the size of the tower. Here are some options:

Using a Sword or Mallet

It was once considered bad luck to use a knife when cutting a croquembouche, so people would use a sword or mallet instead. However, this tradition has faded, and knives are now commonly used.

For Formal Events

Use a sharp knife to disassemble the tiers and cut two to three profiteroles per person.

For Casual Events or Family Gatherings

Encourage guests to pull the profiteroles by hand, taking two to three each.

For Weddings

At weddings, it is traditional for the couple to cut the croquembouche from the middle, down. The tower of choux buns will then be distributed by the catering team. If the croquembouche has a hard glaze, such as toffee or caramel, a hammer may be required to break through the top layer. Alternatively, the couple can simply take a choux bun each from the top of the display and feed them to each other.

Frequently asked questions