Creating A Wedding Gown Bustle: A Step-By-Step Guide

A bustle is an important part of any gown with a train. It is a custom-made addition to a wedding dress that safeguards the train against potential damage and prevents the bride from tripping over it. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, Victorian, Ballroom, Train-flip, Austrian, and Wrist bustle. The American or Overbustle is the simplest and cheapest option, where the train is hooked with a single hook or button along the centre seam. The French or Underbustle is when the fabric is tied up underneath the skirt, creating a tucked-in look. The Austrian bustle is created with a series of ribbons sewn on the inside of the dress, making it easy to pull and tie the train together. While adding a bustle can enhance a wedding gown, it is a complex process best left to a skilled seamstress or alterations expert.

Adding a one-point overbustle

The one-point overbustle is best suited for dresses with lighter fabric and is not recommended for gowns with heavy fabric or long trains. It is the least secure type of bustle and is therefore not ideal for dresses with intricate details or embroidery that could be damaged if the bustle comes undone.

Adding a French bustle

Step 1: Measure the Seam

Start by measuring the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.

Step 2: Pin the Waistline Seam and Train

Lift the centre back seam at the pin mark and position it against the centre of the waistline, at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so that the train is between 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch off the floor. Pin the train to the waistline seam.

Step 3: Lift the Sides of the Train

Lift the sides of the train off the floor by 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch and fold and pin the train along each side of the back seam. Continue folding and pinning the train as necessary between the seams to lift the remaining train off the floor.

Step 4: Make the Ties

Remove all the pin markings on the train and waistline of the dress. Sew a length of narrow grosgrain ribbon (approximately 15 inches) to the waistline of the dress, using the pin marks as a guide. Ensure the ribbon is securely sewn into the waistline seam.

Step 5: Make the Loops

Cut the ribbon to the desired length (e.g., 2 1/2 inches) and fold it in half. Stitch the ribbon loop to the underside of the dress's train, reinforcing it with interfacing or by attaching it to the seam allowances. Position the loops 1/2 inch below each pin mark and repeat the process for all loops.

Step 6: Bustle the Dress

Attach each ribbon to its corresponding loop by inserting the ribbon into the loop and tying a double bow. Adjust and plump up the fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.

The French bustle is ideal for gowns with long trains or heavier fabrics. It is also a good option when there is train decoration centred below the waist, as the bustle won't hide the designs.

Adding an American bustle

To add an American bustle to a wedding gown, first measure the back seam of the dress's train from the waistline seam to the floor and again from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin. Next, lift the centre back seam and position it against the centre of the waistline, adjusting the fold so that the train is between 1.3 and 2 cm off the floor. Attach the train to the seam using a pin. Now, lift the sides of the train off the floor and pin them to the sides of the dress's back seam. Continue folding and pinning the train as necessary until all of it is lifted off the floor.

Next, attach buttons or hooks to the waistline at the points where you placed pins. Make sure to stitch them securely. If the buttons or hooks need additional reinforcement, attach a small piece of interfacing under each one.

Now, make the button loops. Use strong thread and knot the ends together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train at each pin marking a button loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, then pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch from the right side of the train and pull the thread to make a loop of 2.5 to 5 cm. Place your fingers inside the loop, grasp it, and pull the thread to tighten the first loop and create a second loop. Repeat this until you have a thread loop that's big enough to fit the button or hook. Use several backstitches to secure the thread to the underside of the dress.

Finally, bustle the dress by fastening the loops to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of the exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.

Creating a regular/traditional bustle

Creating a regular or traditional bustle involves folding the end of the train under the back of the dress, creating a bubble hem and a fuller back to the skirt. This bustle is usually easier to create on a skirt that is full but does not have a lot of tulle underneath, as the tulle would make it harder for the dress to fall naturally when bustled.

To create a regular bustle, start by attaching a tie to the underside seam of the skirt. The tie should be positioned so that when the bustle is completed, the skirt hem will be just off the floor. Next, sew an eye hook to the very end of the train, concealing the hook as best you can with embroidery or beading. Remember to use a sturdy eye hook if your train is heavy.

Then, you will need to tuck the back of the skirt up and under the dress. You will probably need someone to help you with this part. Attach the eye hook to the tie on the underside. This will make your hem bubble and your skirt look fuller. Straighten out your dress, ensuring that the back is lying as it should. You may need more than one point of attachment to make the bustled hem look natural. If in doubt, hire an experienced seamstress to create this bustle for you.

Creating an over bustle

To create an over bustle, you will need to attach an eye hook or button to the outside of the dress, near the lower back. This can be hidden in the seams with creative decoration. Next, attach a lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Ribbons are not usually used for this type of bustle, as they would be visible. Instead, hooks and eyes are more commonly used.

Connect the hook and eye to draw the skirt off the floor. You can add more sets of hooks and eyes if desired, especially if you want to display any decorative work on the train. If you have multiple ties, be sure to connect them to their corresponding partner. Straighten out the train, ensuring any details on the tail of the train are arranged as you want them.

The over bustle is a simple and elegant way to showcase the details of your wedding gown while also making it easier to move around during your reception.

Frequently asked questions