Junior Rasmussen
Adding a lining to a wedding dress skirt can improve the overall fit and make the dress less see-through. It can also prevent the fabric from clinging to the skin and protect the skin from uncomfortable material. The process of lining a skirt involves cutting the lining from the same pattern as the skirt, sewing the lining pieces together, and then attaching the lining to the skirt along the waistband. The type of fabric used for the lining is important, with lightweight and smooth fabrics such as silk, polyester, or cotton being suitable options. Additionally, it is crucial to measure and cut the fabric accurately to ensure a proper fit.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the fabric
The fabric you choose for the lining of your wedding dress skirt is important as it will determine the comfort, durability, and overall look of the dress. The lining fabric should generally be lightweight and have a soft or silky texture. It is also important to consider the outer fabric of the dress, the intended use, and the desired comfort and appearance.
For a summer wedding, you should opt for a breathable fabric such as cotton, linen, viscose, or silk. Cotton lawn, voile, or batiste are often used as lining fabric for cotton garments, while silk chiffon is a good option for sheer dresses. Silk habotai, also known as China silk, is another featherweight option with a soft, smooth finish. However, it is not very durable and is best suited for loose silhouettes. If you want to add some body to your dress, Dupioni silk is a thicker variety that can be used. For a fitted dress, it is best to avoid mixing a natural lining with a synthetic outer fabric as the natural fibres may stretch more and cause issues.
For a winter wedding, you may want to consider a warmer fabric such as acetate, polyester, fleece, fake fur, or quilted lining. Polyester is the most commonly used lining material due to its low cost and resistance to wrinkling. However, it is prone to static electricity, which could cause the fabrics to cling together. Silk and cotton are natural fibres that can help reduce static, but they may require more delicate care, such as hand washing or dry cleaning.
Other factors to consider when choosing the lining fabric include the colour and weight of the fabric. The lining fabric should typically be similar or lighter in weight than the outer fabric. It is also important to choose a lining fabric that is compatible with the outer fabric in terms of care instructions.
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Cutting the fabric
The pattern pieces for the lining should be cut from the same pattern as the skirt, except for the waistband, collar, or facings. It is important to transfer marks for centres, notches, and darts to the lining fabric. These markings are crucial for correctly placing pockets, darts, pleats, and zips. Test marking pens or chalks on a scrap of fabric to ensure the marks can be removed and do not bleed into the fabric.
When cutting the fabric, it is important to leave a hem allowance. The hem allowance adds weight to the hem and helps the skirt hang nicely. The required hem allowance will depend on the weight and style of the skirt. For example, an A-line skirt in lightweight cotton requires a smaller hem allowance of 2.5-5 cm, while medium-weight straight skirts benefit from a larger hem allowance of up to 8 cm.
Before cutting the fabric, it is advisable to hang the garment for 24 hours to allow the fabric to settle and drop. This will enable you to straighten the hem edge before neatening and hemming. Mark the hem level from the floor upwards, placing pins parallel to the hemline. Ensure that the person for whom the garment is being made is wearing the appropriate underwear and shoes, as these can affect how the garment hangs.
Finally, cut the lining pieces about 2.5 cm shorter than the outer pieces to prevent the lining from dropping and being visible when the skirt is worn.
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Sewing the lining
Sewing a lining into a wedding dress skirt can be done in several ways and can improve the overall fit, feel, and look of the dress. It is important to prepare the lining fabric correctly and to understand the construction of the dress to ensure the lining is attached securely.
Firstly, prepare the lining fabric. The lining fabric should be lightweight and smooth, such as silk, satin, polyester, or cotton. Pre-wash the fabric to prevent shrinkage after the dress is constructed. Cut the lining pieces from the same pattern as the skirt, but cut them slightly shorter to prevent the lining from being visible when the dress is worn. Transfer any marks for centres, notches, and darts to the lining fabric.
Next, sew the lining pieces together. Stitch the side seams of the lining pieces, right sides together, in the same way as the skirt. If you are using multiple pieces of fabric, iron the seams to ensure they lay flat. If your skirt has darts, pleat the top of the darts in the lining rather than sewing along the dart legs.
Now, attach the lining to the skirt. With the wrong sides together, pin the lining and skirt together at the waistline, leaving a gap for any zipper or fastening. Sew the lining and skirt together using a straight stitch, securing the exterior and lining pieces. If your skirt has a zipper, sew the edges of the lining to the zipper tape, ensuring the lining fabric is pressed away from the zip teeth to prevent it from getting caught.
Finally, finish the hem. The lining fabric should not be attached at the hem to allow the outer layer to hang properly. Hem the skirt as normal, ensuring the fabric is pressed and any raw edges are neat.
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Attaching the lining to the skirt
Prepare the Lining Fabric:
Before attaching the lining, ensure that you have the necessary fabric. The lining fabric should be lightweight and smooth, such as silk, silky polyester, or lightweight cotton. Pre-wash the lining fabric to prevent shrinkage after the first wash, which could distort the final garment.
Cut the Lining Pieces:
Cut the lining pieces from the same pattern as the skirt, excluding the waistband. Transfer marks for centres, notches, and darts to the lining fabric to ensure proper placement of pockets, darts, pleats, and zippers.
Sew the Lining to the Skirt:
Pin the lining to the skirt with the wrong sides facing each other. Match the darts, centres, and side seams, aligning the raw edges at the waistline. Sew a straight stitch along the waistband, securing the exterior and lining pieces together. If your skirt has a zipper, leave an opening in the back of the lining and sew the lining edges to the zipper tape before sewing up the back seam.
Finish the Seams:
Finish the seam allowances if desired, although this may add unnecessary bulk. Press the seam allowances open, including the allowances for any openings left for zippers or other closures. If your fabric is delicate, use a low iron temperature and place a towel between the iron and the fabric.
Hem the Skirt:
Prepare the hem allowance by hanging the garment for 24 hours to allow the fabric to settle. Mark the hem level and fold up the hem, matching the side, centre back, and front seams. Turn the raw edge under and topstitch it in place. You can use a skirt marker with a chalk puffer to mark the hemline accurately.
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Finishing touches
Now that you've sewn the lining to the skirt, there are a few final steps to complete your wedding dress skirt.
Firstly, if your skirt has a zipper, you'll need to sew the edges of the lining to the zipper tape. Fold the edges of the lining fabric under around the edges of the zipper, and secure it with pins. Then, sew a zigzag or straight stitch along the edges to attach the lining to the zipper securely.
If your skirt has a waistband, you can fold and sew the top edge of the skirt to create it. You can also press the waistband seam slightly to the inside so that the seam line is hidden.
Before hemming, it is recommended to hang the garment for 24 hours to allow the fabric to settle. This will help you achieve a neat finish. When you're ready to hem, mark the hem level from the floor upwards, placing pins parallel to the hemline. Working on a flat surface, fold up the hem at the marked line, matching the side, centre back, and front seams.
Finally, press the seams and iron any wrinkles to ensure your wedding dress skirt looks neat and polished.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need the same amount of fabric for the lining as for the skirt's exterior fabric.
You should use a lightweight, thin, and smooth fabric for the lining. It should be able to stretch as much as the dress itself. Some options include silk, satin, crepe, or polyester.
Yes, pre-washing the fabric is recommended to prevent shrinkage after the dress is washed.
Cut the lining pieces about 2.5 cm (1 inch) shorter than the skirt pieces to prevent the lining from being visible. Sew the lining pieces together, and then attach the lining to the skirt by sewing along the waistband. If your skirt has a zipper, leave a gap in the lining for it.
