Rhiannon Hendricks
A wedding dress bustle is a process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over her dress. A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a technique where the train folds under itself instead of over, resulting in an understated two-layer hem that creates a design in the back. This article will provide a step-by-step guide on how to French bustle a wedding dress, including tips on preparation, placement of ribbons, and tying techniques.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train or extra fabric of a wedding dress so that the bride can move around with ease |
| Types | French bustle, ballroom bustle, double French bustle, American bustle or overbustle |
| Attachment | Hooks, buttons, or ribbons |
| Cost | $75 to $250 on average |
| Complexity | Time-consuming and challenging |
| Safety | Possibility of breaking during the reception, requiring safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line |
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What You'll Learn
French bustle vs. American bustle
A wedding dress bustle is the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that a bride can walk freely without tripping over her ensemble throughout the night. Wedding dresses can be bustled in many ways, including the French and American bustles.
The American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, is a popular way to pick up the train. This look is achieved by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the wedding dress's waistline. It adds drama to the back by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. Brides can decide if they want one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for extra flair. This bustle is simple for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It also has the added benefit of making wrinkles at the hip disappear. However, some people think that this style can detract from the lines of the dress and the bride's figure.
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style. It has the train fold under itself instead of over, resulting in an understated, two-layer hem that creates design in the back. This bustle is created by adding colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown. It is a good option for brides who want to preserve the lines of their dress and showcase their figure. However, it can be more expensive due to the intricacies of the loop system.
Ultimately, the choice between a French or American bustle depends on the bride's personal preference and the style of her gown. Both options have their advantages and can be adjusted to suit the bride's needs. It is important to work with a skilled seamstress to ensure that the bustle is secure and does not fall, as this can tear the dress.
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How to prepare the dress
Preparing a wedding dress for a French bustle requires careful attention to detail. Here are the steps you can follow to get started:
Firstly, it is important to understand the mechanics of a French bustle. This style of bustle, also known as an under-bustle, involves folding the train of the dress underneath itself, creating a subtle two-layer hem at the back. This technique is the opposite of the American-style bustle, where the train is folded over. The French bustle is designed to seamlessly secure the train or any extra fabric off the ground, allowing the bride to move around with ease.
Before beginning any alterations, it is crucial to have the necessary tools and a suitable workspace. Spread an old sheet or blanket on a flat surface to protect the dress. Place a dress form or mannequin in the middle, adjusting its measurements to be slightly smaller than the dress to avoid stretching the fabric. If the dress has intricate beadwork, cover the form with a sheet to prevent damage. Ensure you have the required materials, such as ribbons, hooks, or buttons, that will be used to secure the bustle.
Next, place the dress inside out on the dress form. If the dress has a crinoline or petticoat, fluff it up before putting it on the form. Find the center seam of the train, which is usually at the longest point. Flatten the train to determine the "floor length," or the desired length of the dress without the train. This step is crucial for understanding how much fabric you need to work with and where to place the bustle points.
Now, decide on the number of bustle points you will need. A simple one-point French bustle is often sufficient for most dresses. However, for very long trains, distributing the weight among three points may be more stable and aesthetically pleasing. Mark the desired number of bustle points along the center seam, keeping a consistent distance between them. You can use straight pins to mark the points temporarily and adjust as needed.
Before proceeding with any permanent alterations, it is essential to try on the dress with the marked bustle points. Ensure that the placement of the pins is correct and that the resulting poufs or gathers are symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing. This step may require some experimentation to achieve the desired look without losing the unique characteristics of the dress.
Finally, once you are satisfied with the placement of the bustle points, you can begin sewing the ribbons, hooks, or buttons that will secure the train. For a one-point bustle, sew a pair of ribbons at the marked point, then tie them together. For a three-point bustle, sew additional ribbons on either side of the center point, measuring about 7 to 8 inches from the center seam. Remember to use different coloured or patterned ribbons to make it easier for the person tying the bustle on the wedding day.
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Sewing ribbons
Selecting the Right Ribbon
Choose a ribbon that is durable and can bear the weight of the dress fabric. Grosgrain ribbon is a good option, and it is preferable to have three different patterns or colours. Having multiple colours can be helpful during the bustling process, as red ribbons, for instance, are easily visible but remain hidden when the dress is down.
Preparing the Ribbons
Cut the ribbons to the desired length. Seal the ends of the ribbons to prevent fraying. You can use clear nail polish or glue, or you can heat seal them over a flame. If you want to add colour to the ribbons, do so before attaching them to the dress.
Attaching the Ribbons
Begin by working with the dress inside out on a dress form. Identify the marked bustle points, which will be along the existing seams to conceal the mechanics of the bustle. For the centre point, measure from the floor-length point to the hem of the train to determine the attachment location. Secure any additional rings or fasteners that will be used in conjunction with the ribbons.
When attaching the ribbons, sew them very tightly to the designated points. You can sew by hand or use a sewing machine, depending on the dress's design and your preference. If the bride is concerned about visible stitching, consider sewing by hand with small stitches.
Final Adjustments
Check that the ribbons are securely attached and that the bustle is sewn through all layers of the train for proper support. Practice the bustling process several times to ensure it holds up and adjust the positioning as needed to showcase any decorative elements.
Creating a French bustle with sewing ribbons requires time, patience, and attention to detail. By carefully following these steps, you can achieve a secure and elegant result that complements the wedding dress's natural flow.
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Tying ribbons
When preparing to tie ribbons for a French bustle, it is recommended to use grosgrain ribbon as it is less likely to split compared to satin ribbon. It is also suggested to use different coloured ribbons to easily identify which ties go together. If there is a concern about the colours showing through the fabric, numbering the ends of the ribbons can be helpful.
To begin the process of tying ribbons, cut several pieces of ribbon and sew them onto the waistline of the dress. The ribbons should be secured to the outer layer of the dress, including any decorative elements such as lace. It is important to use multiple stitches around the meeting point to ensure that the ribbons are securely attached.
Next, cut additional pieces of ribbon and fold them in half to create loops. Sew these loops onto the underside of the dress's train. These loops will be attached to the ribbons at the waistline, creating the bustle effect. It is possible to add interfacing to reinforce the loops if desired.
Finally, tie the ribbons and loops together, adjusting the fabric to achieve the desired volume and shape of the bustle. It is important to note that for dresses with long trains, additional points of attachment may be necessary to distribute the weight evenly. This can be achieved by sewing additional ribbons at different points along the train.
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$19.99
Safety measures
French bustles are a stunning option for wedding dresses, but they can be tricky to execute safely. Here are some detailed safety measures to ensure a secure French bustle for the big day:
Plan Ahead:
French bustles can be complex, so it's essential to give yourself ample time to work on the dress. Wash your hands frequently while handling the fabric to prevent soiling. It's also a good idea to practice on a similar dress or a dress form/mannequin before attempting the final bustle.
Choose the Right Technique:
The French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is achieved by tucking the train under itself, creating a two-layer hem at the back. This style works best with gowns that have a natural waistline and plain skirts made of satin, silk, crepe, or similar fabrics. This ensures that the buttons or hooks used for the bustle are hidden.
Secure the Bustle:
Use colour-coordinated ribbons, buttons, or hooks to secure the bustle. Sew the ribbons or attach the buttons/hooks at multiple points to distribute the weight of the train evenly. Always have safety pins, a sewing kit, and clear fishing line on hand in case any adjustments or quick fixes are needed on the day.
Assign a Helper:
Since it's challenging to manage the bustle while wearing the dress, assign a trusted person like a maid of honour, bridesmaid, or close friend to help with bustling the dress. Ensure they attend the final fitting to learn how to secure the bustle correctly.
Be Prepared for Emergencies:
Despite your best efforts, there's always a chance the bustle could break during the reception. Keep an emergency kit with safety pins, a sewing kit, and clear fishing line in the bridal suite. If a ribbon comes loose, it can be sewn back with the fishing line. For more complex issues, safety pins can be used to secure the bustle temporarily.
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Frequently asked questions
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a style of gown where the train folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem at the back.
To install a French bustle, you will need a wedding dress, a dress form or mannequin, a measuring tape, and ribbons. First, place the dress inside out on the dress form. Then, find the centre seam of the train and measure the floor length. Next, place straight pins to keep the correct distance between them and sew on a pair of ribbons. Sew on a second pair of ribbons parallel to the first pair and tie the pairs together.
Wedding dress bustles can be expensive, so it is possible to do it yourself, but it is time-consuming and tedious work. If you are doing it yourself, make sure to give yourself a few afternoons to work on it and take many breaks. Wash your hands frequently to ensure the fabric does not get soiled. It is also a good idea to prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line in case the bustle breaks during the reception.
