George Boyle
A wedding dress bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. This is done to prevent tripping hazards and to protect the fabric from damage during the reception. A French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style as it has the train fold under itself instead of over. The end look is an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design in the back. The French bustle is formed with bustle points meant to pull the train fabric up and under the gown. This bustle style is well-loved due to its versatility and can be done on dresses with lace overlays.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown’s back |
| Techniques | Sewing loops, buttons, hooks, ties, ribbons, or eye hooks to the end of the train |
| Types | French, American, Ballroom, Austrian, Royal, Bow |
| Considerations | The weight of the train, the length and width of the train, the number of bustle points, the silhouette of the dress, the fabric of the dress, the presence of intricate lace or unique silhouettes, the preference of the bride |
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What You'll Learn
French vs. American bustle
The bustle of a wedding dress refers to the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that a bride can walk freely without tripping over her ensemble throughout the night. Brides with floor-length dresses often opt for a bustle to create a shorter hemline post-ceremony, allowing them to move around and dance comfortably during the reception.
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a popular way to pick up the train. This style involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the wedding dress's waistline. It adds drama to the back by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. The American bustle can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for an ultra-dramatic look. This style tends to transform the silhouette of the dress from the back, making the train disappear.
The French bustle, on the other hand, is formed with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown, creating the opposite effect of the American bustle. It is reminiscent of a vintage gown and can be created in a Victorian or royal style, with multiple bustle points throughout the skirt for beautiful pickups. The French bustle is considered more elegant and stylish, flattering the body and keeping the dress off the floor.
While the American bustle may hide the figure and create a gap between the buttons and the body, the French bustle showcases the lines of the dress, complementing the figure. The French bustle is also a good option for a lace train wedding dress as it can be challenging to execute certain bustle styles with buttons down the back.
Both the American and French bustle styles offer distinct advantages and aesthetic appeals. The choice between the two ultimately depends on the bride's preference, the silhouette of the dress, and the desired level of drama and elegance.
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How to attach the train to the gown
The French bustle is a stunning option for a wedding gown with a lace train. It is also known as an underbustle, where the train folds under itself, creating a cascading effect. This is the opposite of the American-style bustle, which sits on top of the gown.
To attach the train to the gown, you can use ribbons, loops, buttons, or hooks. If using ribbons, attach one to the underside seam of the skirt, almost all the way up to the waist. This will depend on where you would like the bustle puff to sit. The top of the puffy area is where you will attach the ribbon. If you have a long train or want a more dramatic look, you can add multiple points of attachment by sewing several ribbons to the top inside of the skirt.
If using loops and buttons, these will be located under the skirt. Attach the loop to the button, ensuring it is tight and secure. You can also use hooks in the same way as buttons. The loops, buttons, or hooks are usually located at the back of the gown or along the waistline.
For a lace train, you may need to be careful with your stitching. If the loops are only secured to the fabric and not the outer layer of lace, you can try tacking the lace at the ribbon meeting place with small, tight stitches.
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Using ribbons to hide attachment points
To bustle a wedding gown means to alter it in a way that lifts the train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one. The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style as it has the train fold under itself instead of over. This results in an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design in the back.
Ribbons are often used at each bustle point to hide the attachment and make it appear seamless. The ribbons are sewn with more stitches if the fabric is heavy to support the weight. The ribbons can be colour-coded to make the job easier. If the bride is particular about stitching showing on an unadorned train, the seamstress can sew it by hand with many small stitches.
The French bustle is well-loved due to its versatility. It can be created with multiple bustle points throughout the skirt for beautiful pickups. It can also be created with a single point down the centre of the gown or with 5 or 7 bustle points to create an incredible draped look.
If you are creating a French bustle, you can attach ribbons at each bustle point to hide the attachment. For example, you can sew a loop at the end of the train and then loop a ribbon through it and tie it to a button at the waist. This will allow you to hide the attachment points and create a seamless look for your French bustle wedding dress.
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The number of bustle points
For a more dramatic look, you can use five or seven bustle points to create a draped effect. If you want to create multiple pickups, you can add even more points of attachment. However, this will require more time to fasten, so it's important to practice beforehand.
When deciding on the number of bustle points, it's also important to consider the silhouette and fabric of the dress. For example, a French bustle can make a tulle dress look bulky, while a lace overlay can be bustled in any style. Ultimately, the right number of bustle points will depend on what looks and functions best with your particular dress.
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How to avoid tearing the lace
Sewing lace can be a difficult task and requires precision to avoid tearing the fabric. Here are some tips to avoid tearing the lace on a wedding dress when creating a French bustle:
Firstly, prepare your lace by washing it gently by hand with fabric detergent and lukewarm water. Lay it flat to dry before sewing, as lace can be stiff and difficult to work with when it hasn't been washed. It is important to identify the right and wrong sides of the lace. The right side is the front, or the side you want to be visible, and the wrong side is the back, or the part you want to be hidden. Marking the wrong side with chalk can help ensure that you sew the lace with the right sides facing out.
When sewing, use a thinner, more delicate needle, such as sizes 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10. A poly-blend thread is recommended as it is stronger than cotton thread, which is more prone to tearing and breaking during the sewing process. Use a medium width and length zigzag stitch to sew the edges of the lace to the fabric. If the lace is stretchy, a narrow zigzag stitch will prevent threads from tearing when the dress is worn.
To improve the feed, especially on corners and edges, place a water-soluble stabiliser under the fabric. Sew through the stabiliser, then carefully tear it away or dissolve it in water. Bind all visible seams with bias binding. This involves encasing the fabric edge in a bias strip and stitching it down. Positioning the fabric edges slightly stepped rather than flush will result in a softer-looking edge.
By following these steps and techniques, you can help avoid tearing the lace when creating a French bustle on a wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a technique used to lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. This prevents tripping and protects the fabric from damage.
The main two types of bustle are the American, which folds up on top of the gown, and the French, which tucks under. Other types include the Ballroom, Austrian, and Royal bustle.
The type of bustle you choose depends on the shape and construction of your gown. You can also consider your personal preferences and the silhouette you wish to create.
To create a French bustle, attach a tie to the inside of the skirt, almost up to the waist. The position of the tie will depend on where you want the bustle puff. If you have multiple points of attachment, you will need several ties. Once you've located the fastening points, attach the loops to the buttons or hooks and adjust the train.
Bring a bridesmaid to your fitting to learn how to bustle your dress. Taking videos of the process can also be helpful. Practice in advance, especially for dresses with multiple bustle points, and always consult your seamstress to determine what's possible for your dress.
