Deborah Chan
A wedding dress bustle is a simple yet effective way to secure the train of a wedding dress, allowing the wearer to move freely and dance without worrying about guests stepping on their train. A bustle can be created by pulling the train up and securing it with ribbons, buttons, hooks, ties, or eyes. This process only takes about three to five minutes but is often rushed, leading to issues such as loose loops or buttons, which can cause the bustle to come undone. To avoid this, it is important to have a practice run and designate someone to be in charge of bustling the dress at the reception. In case of a wedding day emergency, such as a broken bustle, quick fixes like safety pins, double-sided tape, or fashion tape can be used to secure the train.
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What You'll Learn
- Prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, double-sided tape, and fashion tape
- Sew loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons to the back of your dress
- Secure the loops to the buttons or hooks, adjusting the train for comfort and symmetry
- Conceal exposed buttons or hooks by hand-sewing lace appliqués on top
- Practise bustling your dress before the wedding day
Prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, double-sided tape, and fashion tape
Preparing an emergency kit with safety pins, double-sided tape, and fashion tape can be a quick fix for your wedding dress bustle. These items can help secure loose loops or buttons, hold up straps, and create a fake hem in a pinch. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for preparing your emergency kit and fixing your wedding dress bustle:
- Safety Pins: Safety pins are a must-have in your emergency kit. They can be used to quickly fix loose loops or buttons on your wedding dress bustle. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train, and create a loop with thread and a needle. This will provide a secure point to attach the bustle. Stock up on safety pins, especially if your dress has an American bustle, as they are not as strong as French bustles and may need extra support.
- Double-Sided Tape: Double-sided tape is a versatile item that can be used in various ways to fix your wedding dress bustle. It can help with last-minute tailoring changes, such as securing straps, creating a fake hem, or keeping collars in place. Bring your tape to your final fitting and ask your tailor to help you determine the best places to use it. Practice using the tape beforehand to assess its performance and staying power. On the day of your wedding, clean the area of the skin where the tape will go with an alcohol wipe, let it dry, then apply the tape.
- Fashion Tape: Fashion tape, also known as body tape, is perfect for keeping a strapless wedding dress in place. It can be used to secure the bodice of the dress against your midriff or provide nipple coverage. Assess the placement and performance of the tape beforehand to ensure it works with your dress. On the day of your wedding, apply baby powder or talcum powder before using the tape to prevent the effects of sweat.
Remember to also include a needle and thread in your emergency kit for last-minute repairs. Choose a thread that matches your dress color to keep any fixes invisible. Additionally, consider designating someone in your bridal party, such as the Maid or Matron of Honor, to be in charge of bustling your dress at the reception.
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Sew loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons to the back of your dress
Sewing loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons to the back of your wedding dress can be a great DIY project. Here are some detailed instructions for each of these:
Sewing Loops
To sew loops, cut a longer vertical piece of fabric. The length will depend on the number and size of the loops you want to make. For example, if you want five 2-inch loops, cut a string that is at least 15 inches long, including a seam allowance. Then, cut the edge of the string to start with straight edges. Measure and mark the middle of each loop to ensure it aligns with the waistline seam. Sew the loops to the dress at a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Flip it over, tuck the seam allowance under, and sew again on the face side, closer to the edge.
Sewing Buttons
To sew buttons, start by threading a needle with a 16-18 inch length of thread. Place the button in the desired position and stitch through the buttonhole and fabric several times. Tie a secure knot at the end, and cut off any excess thread. Repeat this process for each button, ensuring they are securely attached.
Sewing Hooks
Hooks are commonly used at the top of a zipper or on collars and sleeves. To sew a hook, place it 1/8 of an inch from the edge of your garment and mark it with tailor's chalk. Thread a needle and stitch around the body of the hook 2-3 times. Then, use blanket stitches to go around both loops on the hook. Tie off the thread, rethread the needle, and place the hook on the eye. Sew around one of the loops a few times and then use a blanket stitch around both loops on the eye. Finish by stitching around the sides of the eye 2-3 times and secure the thread.
Sewing Ties
Making a tie is a simple project. First, select your fabric, such as cotton or silk, and purchase lining fabric. Cut your fabric according to your chosen pattern, using pins and tailor's chalk to mark the pieces. Sew the main tie pieces together to create a long strip. Add the lining to the back of the tie, leaving a seam allowance, and then flip it right-side out. Add a panel of interfacing down the center to give it structure, folding the sides over to hide it. Finally, hand stitch the folded edges together and press the seams with an iron.
Sewing Ribbons
When sewing ribbons, use a sharp needle or sewing machine needle that won't snag the ribbon. Stitch the ribbons to the flat fabric before constructing the garment so that the raw edges are caught in the seam allowance. Iron ribbons from the wrong side or use a pressing cloth to protect them from heat damage. Use a quilting ruler to position ribbons evenly, and mark placement lines with tailor's chalk. Apply basting glue or fusible web to the wrong side of the ribbon to keep it in place while sewing. Finally, coordinate your thread color with the ribbon, matching the color for discretion or choosing a contrasting color for added style.
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Secure the loops to the buttons or hooks, adjusting the train for comfort and symmetry
Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, but you can sew one on yourself if you're handy with a needle and thread. If you're unsure, consider working with a professional seamstress to achieve a flawless result.
Once you've located the fastening points, attach the loops to the buttons or hooks. Ensure each connection is tight and secure to prevent the bustle from coming undone. You may require assistance from a bridesmaid or trusted friend.
To attach the loops, use strong thread to thread the needle, then knot the ends of the thread together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train, wherever you made a pin marking denoting a button loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, then pull it through the interfacing and train. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot.
After fastening the loops, adjust the train to ensure it feels comfortable and looks symmetrical. This process should take around three to five minutes. Make sure to pay attention to detail to ensure the bustle is even on both sides.
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Conceal exposed buttons or hooks by hand-sewing lace appliqués on top
If you want to conceal the buttons or hooks on your wedding dress bustle, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them. This is a creative way to enhance the overall appearance of your dress, adding a delicate touch.
Lace appliqués are embroidered fabric pieces sewn onto a sheer base such as tulle or mesh. They can be made from various materials, including silk, cotton, or synthetic fibres, and come in different styles, patterns, and sizes. You can buy lace appliqués at fabric stores, but if you want a specific design, you may need to make your own.
To make your own lace appliqués, you will need a hot cutting tool, such as a stencil cutting tool, wood-burning tool, soldering iron, or hot knife, and some GemTac or other glue. You will also need a cutting board to protect your work area and some lace fabric. If you want to add a backing to your lace appliqués, you will need an underlay accent fabric in a colour that contrasts with the lace.
Before you begin, ensure your hot cutting tool is fully heated, and always remember to ventilate the room to avoid inhaling any fumes from the melting plastic. Test your tool on a scrap of fabric first to ensure it does not burn or discolour the fabric. Once you are confident, you can begin cutting your lace appliqué pieces.
If you are gluing beads or sequins onto your lace, ensure you glue the backs of all the threads holding the beads in place first. If you are using beaded lace, you can attach the lace to the underlay before cutting the lace. Smooth out any bumps and allow the glue to dry before stitching the two layers together.
By following these steps, you can create beautiful lace appliqués to hand-sew over the exposed buttons or hooks on your wedding dress bustle, adding a unique and elegant touch to your special day.
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Practise bustling your dress before the wedding day
Practising bustling your dress before the wedding day is a crucial step in ensuring that your wedding dress looks and functions perfectly throughout the day. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:
Identify the Fastening Points
Locate the fastening points on your dress, such as loops, buttons, hooks, ties, or ribbons. These are typically installed at the back of the gown or along the waistline. Consult your seamstress or refer to their instructions if you're unsure.
Delegate the Task
Designate a trusted individual, usually a bridesmaid or family member, to be in charge of bustling your dress. It is essential that they attend your final alterations appointment to receive hands-on practice and guidance from your seamstress. This ensures they are confident and prepared for the task on the wedding day.
Practise the Bustle
During the practice session, simulate the actual bustling process as if you were at the reception. Wear the shoes with the heel height you plan to wear on the day, and twirl around as if you're dancing. This allows you to test the comfort and functionality of the bustle. Make sure to pay attention to the entire bustle, ensuring that both sides are even and secure.
Prepare an Emergency Kit
Despite your best efforts, there is always a chance that the bustle may come undone or break. Be prepared for any unexpected issues by assembling an emergency kit. Include items such as safety pins, double-sided tape, fashion tape, a needle, and thread that matches your dress colour. Having these essentials on hand will enable quick fixes on the spot.
Choose the Right Bustle Style
Different types of wedding dresses call for different bustle styles. Consult with your seamstress to determine the best bustle style for your gown's silhouette, the amount of fabric, and your desired look. Popular options include the American bustle, Austrian bustle, ballroom bustle, and bow bustle, each offering unique visual effects and functionality.
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