Deborah Chan
Wedding dress alterations can be costly, so it's worth exploring ways to expand a wedding dress yourself. If your dress is too tight, the first step is to determine whether you can let it out. This will depend on the construction and fabric of the dress, as well as the number of seams. If letting out the seams won't provide enough room, you can try adding a corset back, converting the dress to lace-up, or adding extra material. You can also try opening up the side seams and armpit seams to test whether adding gussets would work.
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What You'll Learn
Add gussets to the side seams
A gusset is a small, triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment to make it more comfortable and provide more room for the wearer. It is often used to enlarge a garment that is too small, such as a dress that cannot be zipped up all the way.
To add gussets to the side seams of a wedding dress, follow these steps:
Step 1: Prepare the Fabric
Use fabric that matches the dress exactly. If you are using fabric scraps, ensure they are large enough to create the gussets. You may also need to use fabric from hemming the dress, turning it on its side to match the orientation of the dress fabric.
Step 2: Measure and Cut
Turn the dress inside out and carefully unpick the side seams. Measure the desired width of the gusset, taking into account the amount of expansion needed. Mark the measurements on a piece of paper, then cut out a diamond or triangle-shaped pattern. Use this pattern to cut out two gussets from your fabric, ensuring the grainlines are aligned.
Step 3: Pin and Sew
Pin one gusset to the dress with right sides facing each other. Line up the center corners of the gusset with the center of the opening on the dress. Carefully sew the gusset to the dress, using the original seam lines as a guide. Go slowly and manipulate the fabric around the shape of the gusset.
Step 4: Repeat and Finish
Repeat the process on the other side of the dress. Turn the dress right side out and try it on to ensure a comfortable fit.
Adding gussets to the side seams of a wedding dress can provide the necessary expansion while maintaining the original style of the dress. It is a straightforward process but may require some sewing experience to achieve a neat and discreet finish.
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Convert to a lace-up back
Converting a wedding dress to a lace-up back is a great way to solve fitting issues and achieve an adjustable fit. This process can be tricky, especially if the gown has a zipper, and there are several considerations to keep in mind.
Firstly, assess whether the gown bodice fits well. Converting to a lace-up back is ideal if the gown is too small, as it provides more flexibility than simply sewing inserts into the seams. However, if the gown fits well, you will need to create space for the lacing area, which may involve losing some decorations at the back. Taking in the side seams can be an option to create the necessary space without altering the design elements.
The type of fabric and design of the gown are also important considerations. For example, if you plan to use eyelets or grommets, ensure that the fabric is strong enough to support them without creating pulls or puckers. Additionally, consider the desired shape of the lace-up back. Typically, formalwear lace-up backs form a V-shape, which may require predetermined waist measurements. However, you may prefer a parallel line design, which can provide more room for adjustment.
When converting to a lace-up back, you may need to cut out a portion of the back pattern pieces to ensure the lace-up detail is a feature, even at the intended sizing. This adjustment also allows for future size adjustments if needed. It is important to carefully plan and measure these adjustments to ensure the gown remains structurally sound and aesthetically pleasing.
Converting a wedding dress to a lace-up back can be a complex process, and seeking the help of a skilled seamstress is advisable. They can guide you through the process, ensuring that the alterations are done correctly and the final fit is perfect.
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Add a large panel to the back
Adding a large panel to the back of a wedding dress is a great way to make it larger without affecting the overall look of the dress. This method is often used when a dress needs to be enlarged by more than one size. It is also a good way to save money, as tailoring services can be expensive.
Before starting, it is important to prepare your sewing space and materials. Clear a large table to spread out the dress, and assemble all the tools and notions you will need, such as sharp scissors for making straight, even cuts. If the dress is new, it is a good idea to wash and dry it first to soften the fabric and make it easier to work with.
To begin the alteration, take measurements of your bust and waist to ensure that you add enough fabric for a good fit. If there is a seam on the back of the dress, use a seam ripper to open it. If there is no seam, make a straight cut from the neck of the dress to the waist. If the dress has a zipper, remove it.
Measure and cut the fabric for the panel, leaving enough room for a 1/2-inch seam. Choose a fabric that matches or complements the dress to maintain its overall design and aesthetics. If possible, use the same fabric as the dress to disguise the alteration completely.
After adding the panel, you can further disguise the alteration by adding a corset-style tie over it. Sew loops down the inside cut of the back of the dress, and lace a piece of ribbon or cord through the loops, tying it at the top or bottom. Choose a colour that coordinates with the dress.
This technique is a simple and effective way to enlarge a wedding dress while preserving its original style and beauty.
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Assess the construction and fabric
Assessing the construction and fabric of a wedding dress is crucial before attempting any expansion, especially in the back area. Here are some detailed considerations:
Fabric Type and Properties:
Firstly, identify the fabric of your wedding dress. Different fabrics have distinct properties that influence their behaviour during alterations. For instance, fabrics like wool exhibit specific characteristics such as hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage, and extensibility. Understanding these properties is essential when planning to expand a dress, as they dictate how the fabric will respond to alterations.
Fabric Quality and Stability:
Fabric quality plays a significant role in determining its suitability for expansion. Instrumental measurements, such as the Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM), assess fabric quality by evaluating characteristics like small-scale deformation (bending, shear, compression, and extension) and dimensional stability. Dimensional stability tests predict how fabrics behave under typical consumer practices, helping identify potential issues like sagging, stretching, and loss of form.
Construction Techniques and Structure:
Understanding the construction techniques used in the wedding dress is vital. Inspect the seams, stitching type, and overall structure. Consider the impact of any alterations on the dress's structural integrity. Techniques like Virtual Design and Construction (VDC) can aid in understanding the existing construction and planning the expansion effectively.
Fabric Recovery Properties:
Before expanding a wedding dress, it is essential to assess the fabric's recovery properties. This can be done through stretch and recovery tests, which involve marking a fabric sample, holding it at a specified extension, and then measuring it again in its relaxed state to determine the percentage of expansion. Fabrics with good recovery properties will return to their original state, ensuring the dress maintains its shape after expansion.
Existing Seams and Allowance:
Examine the existing seams of the wedding dress. Are there any seams that can be adjusted to create more room in the back? Sometimes, simply opening up side seams and armpit seams can provide the necessary expansion without cutting the fabric. This technique allows for a trial fitting to assess the required amount of fabric for gussets or panels.
In summary, assessing the construction and fabric of a wedding dress involves understanding the fabric type, its properties, quality, and stability, as well as the construction techniques used. By evaluating these aspects, you can make informed decisions about expanding the dress in the back while maintaining its structural integrity and aesthetic appeal.
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Discuss with a tailor
When discussing alterations with a tailor, it is important to first assess the construction and fabric of the wedding dress. The number of seams in the dress is a key factor, as more vertical seams offer more opportunities to let out the dress. If the dress has a zipper, it is preferable to leave that seam untouched if possible.
If the dress only needs to be let out by a small amount, the tailor may be able to simply reduce the seam width, increasing the room within the dress without adding fabric. However, if the dress needs to be expanded by several inches, the tailor may recommend adding extra fabric or converting it to a lace-up back, similar to a corset style. This would require purchasing additional fabric, which can be costly, especially if the fabric needs to be matched to the original dress.
If the dress has been dyed, letting out the seams may reveal darker dyed areas, making the alterations obvious. In this case, the tailor may suggest other options, such as adding a panel to the back of the dress or altering the back to be low-cut. These options may still be expensive, but they could provide a better outcome than simply letting out the seams.
It is also worth noting that some dresses are easier to alter than others. For example, lined bodices are often simpler to adjust than those with French seaming. Additionally, the style of the dress can impact the complexity of the alterations. If the dress has sleeves, for instance, altering the bodice may require letting out the sleeves as well.
Overall, it is important to consult a professional tailor who specializes in wedding dresses to determine the best course of action for expanding the dress while maintaining its structural integrity and aesthetic appeal.
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Frequently asked questions
One way is to convert the dress to a lace-up back or add a corset. Another way is to add extra fabric or panels to the back.
First, determine if the dress can be let out by assessing its construction and fabric. Consider the number of seams—more vertical seams mean more room to adjust.
The challenges include colour matching the fabric, especially if the dress is older. Additionally, the type of fabric and dye used can impact the process, as some dyes fade over time, making alterations more obvious.
Yes, depending on the fit issue, you can add gussets to the side seams, or if the dress has sleeves, you might need to alter them as well.
The cost can vary, but general alterations can start at $300 or €120, and more extensive changes may cost significantly more.
