
Enlarging a wedding dress is a common concern for brides-to-be, especially in the chest area. While it is generally easier to take down the size of a dress than to increase it, there are a few methods to make a wedding dress bigger. One primary method is to work with seam allowances, which involves letting out the dress to accommodate a larger size. Another popular method is to add a corset back, which provides flexibility in size and adds elegance to the dress. Other methods include adding fabric to the side seams, converting the dress to a lace-up back, or adding panels, gussets, or sleeves. The feasibility of these alterations depends on various factors, such as the style, material, embellishments, and initial size difference of the dress. Consulting with a professional seamstress or tailor is crucial to assess the feasibility of modifications and ensure the dress's integrity.
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What You'll Learn

Adding a gusset
A gusset is a diamond-shaped or triangular insert in a seam that provides expansion or reinforcement. Gussets are a great way to add room to a wedding dress, especially in the bust area. If the dress doesn't fit the bust, it won't zip up all the way, or it may barely zip up but feel very restricting and pull the armscyes forward.
To add a gusset to the side seams of a wedding dress, start by taking your bust, waist, and hip measurements. Compare these to the measurements of the dress. The more vertical seams the dress has, the more you can let out. If the dress has a back zipper, it's best to leave that seam untouched.
Next, carefully open the side seams and try on the dress. If having that extra width works, you can add the gussets. The gusset will start right under the armpit and end at the waist seam. This method allows you to add material without removing sleeves or altering the waistline and neckline.
When working with fabric that frays, like polyester crepe, a 1/4 inch seam allowance is recommended. If you're working with a knit fabric, you can go down to a 1/8 inch allowance. If the fabric was dyed with indigo or another type of dye that fades over time, letting it out might reveal darker dyed areas around each seam. Lined bodices are easier to alter than those with French seaming.
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Adjusting seam allowances
To let out the seam allowance, a seamstress will unfasten the stitching on the two side seams located under the arms. This process can provide a little extra room, but it is usually limited to enlarging the dress by one or two sizes. If more room is needed, additional alterations may be required, such as adding a gusset or converting to a corset back.
Before attempting to adjust the seam allowance, it is important to measure the existing allowance to ensure there is enough fabric to work with. Turning the dress inside out allows for easier measurement of the seam allowance. If the seam allowance is 1/4" or less, letting out the seams may not be a viable option, and other enlargement methods should be considered.
The type of fabric and construction of the dress should also be taken into account when adjusting seam allowances. For example, fabrics that fray easily may require larger seam allowances, and the original stitching may need to be unpicked before re-stitching to ensure a neat finish. Additionally, if the fabric has been dyed with indigo or similar dyes that fade over time, letting out the seams may reveal darker areas around each seam, making the alteration noticeable.
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Converting to a corset back
Converting a wedding dress to a corset back is a great way to enlarge a dress that doesn't zip up all the way. This method is ideal for dresses that fit well between the two bust points at the front.
First, you must remove the zipper. Start by marking the highest point where the dress can be zipped up. Then, using a seam ripper, remove the zipper down to the spot where it can no longer be zipped. Cut the zipper about half an inch above this point, fold over, and sew.
Next, you will need to create the corset loops. Decide how many loops you will need and how far apart they will be spaced. Typically, they are spaced about 1.5 inches apart, but this may vary depending on the amount of space for the corset back. Sew the loops onto the dress, folding them in half and pinning or clipping them in place.
Once the loops are in place, you can lace up the corset with ribbon. You can use matching ribbon or make your own lacing using fabric from the dress.
Finally, you can add a modesty panel to the inside of the dress. This will hide the skin at the back and give a more finished look to the corset. Pin the left edge of the modesty panel to the inside left edge of the dress opening, overlapping by about half an inch. Then, top stitch along the stitching for the corset loops to secure the modesty panel in place.
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Adding fabric to side seams
Adding fabric to the side seams of a wedding dress is a great way to enlarge it while maintaining its original design and shape. This method can be used to add width to the dress, but it is important to note that it will also make the armholes wider, so you may need to add length vertically as well.
First, turn the dress inside out and examine the side seams to determine if there is enough extra fabric to let the dress out. If there is, try on the dress and use a marking pen to mark the top and bottom of the area where it fits tightly. This will indicate how much of the seam needs to be adjusted. If there is no extra fabric at the seams, you may need to consider other enlargement methods or seek the help of a professional seamstress or tailor.
Once you have identified the amount of fabric needed, carefully use a seam ripper to remove the stitches at the side seams, ensuring you do not rip the fabric. If your dress has an enclosed seam, you may only need to remove one line of stitching to access the extra fabric. If there is no extra fabric, you will need to insert additional fabric to enlarge the dress.
To insert additional fabric, choose a matching or complementary fabric with a similar weight, pattern, and texture to ensure a seamless and cohesive look. Cut the fabric into panels that stretch from the neck to the waist or hips, making them slightly wider than your measurements to allow for seam allowances. Insert these panels into the side seams and stitch them in place, being careful to match the original stitching lines.
By following these steps, you can successfully add fabric to the side seams of your wedding dress to enlarge it while preserving its overall design and aesthetics.
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Removing the zipper
Enlarging a wedding dress can be a stressful task, especially if it needs to be done last minute. It is important to remember that these issues are more common than one might think, and there are ways to address them.
One way to enlarge a wedding dress is by adding fabric to the side seams. This method can be used if the zipper seems like it would zip at the top, but not in the middle where the bust line is. If the entire zipper is inches apart, then the dress will need to be made bigger at the zipper by converting it to a lace-up back or adding a large panel to the back.
If you wish to avoid removing the zipper, you can try to adjust the waistline. This can be done by marking the interlining of the bodice one inch higher than the original seam line. Make dots with a pencil or a chalk marker at the measurement you need. Since you will not be taking apart the zipper area, taper your one-inch line gradually between the zipper area and the side seam. Start tapering the line about three inches out from the zipper. Once you have the new seam line marked, begin taking out the original seam line, starting about an inch or two away from the zipper, using a seam ripper.
If you are only working with one or two layers, you can take the zipper out, make the alterations, and put it back in. However, if there are multiple layers, it may be best to partially take out the zipper, make the necessary adjustments, and sew it back in.
If the dress has a side zipper, you can add a diamond gusset to the back or front of the dress. This method allows you to add material without removing sleeves or changing the waistline or neckline. The gusset will start right under the armpit and end at the waist seam.
It is important to note that altering a wedding dress can be a complex process, and seeking professional help may be necessary.
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