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When it comes to wedding attire, there are many factors to consider, from the season and venue to the role you will be playing at the wedding. For example, the groom, groomsmen, father of the bride, and best man may all have different dress codes. The most important thing to remember is to check the invitation for the dress code, which is usually included. If there is no dress code, it is best to ask for clarity. For a black-tie event, a tuxedo is required, whereas for a formal event, a three-piece suit will do. For a more relaxed or casual wedding, smart-casual attire is acceptable, and you can style a suit in a less formal way. The fit of your suit is also important, with the sleeves of the suit jacket ending at the wrists and the back of the jacket falling around the top of the seat.
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What You'll Learn
Dress codes: black tie, formal, cocktail, or smart casual
Black Tie
Black-tie weddings are as formal as it gets. As a guest, you are expected to dress formally, most likely in a tuxedo or dinner suit with elegant accessories. The classic black-tie look for men includes a tuxedo with satin facing on the lapels and trousers with a stripe of matching satin running down the outer seam. The shirt should be a white dress shirt, preferably in a style known as Marcella or piqué, and it should be paired with a black bow tie. A cummerbund or waistcoat that matches your suit can also be added, but you should never wear both together.
Formal
Formal attire is a step down from black tie but still requires a refined look with subtle touches of personality. For men, this means a tailored suit, dress shirt, and tie. The suit should be made from luxury fabrics such as rich worsted wools, blended noble fibres like alpaca, silk, or cashmere, or a structured cotton or linen blend. A tailored three-piece suit in a shade of blue is always a good choice.
Cocktail
Cocktail attire strikes a balance between formal and casual, elegant and comfortable. For men, this means a suit and tie. During the day or in warmer weather, lighter greys or blues are appropriate, while darker hues are more suitable for the evening or colder months. Even at a relaxed venue such as a beach, barn, or vineyard, a jacket and tie are still a must for men. These can be removed after the formalities have ended and the sun has gone down, or after the groom or senior male attendants have removed theirs.
Smart Casual
Smart casual combines well-fitting, polished business wear with elements of casual attire. For men, this could mean chinos, dark wash denim, or suit pants with a casual shirt. Blazers are a good option to pair with pants, and a variety of tops can be worn, such as collared shirts, button-ups, or casual tops. While there are no restrictions on footwear, it is best to avoid sneakers and stilettos. Block heels, kitten heels, ballet flats, oxford shoes, loafers, wedges, or ankle boots are good choices.
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Suit colours: consider the season and venue
When choosing a suit colour for a wedding, it's important to consider the season and venue.
For warmer months, opt for lighter fabrics and colours. For example, you could pair a beige linen blazer with white trousers. Lighter shades like tan or light blue suggest approachability and seasonal appropriateness. Light grey is an excellent choice for a sophisticated yet soft look, while beige suits are ideal for beach or destination weddings. Pastel suits in shades like pale blue, blush pink, or mint green can be a bold yet tasteful choice. For spring, light to medium blue suits are a great choice, while light to medium grey provides versatility and pairs well with seasonal accent colours. Tan or khaki works for more casual or daytime spring celebrations, while navy remains a sophisticated option that adapts well to spring palettes.
In cooler weather, opt for richer, darker tones like a burgundy jacket with navy trousers. Darker colours like navy and charcoal typically convey formality and sophistication. Daytime weddings generally invite lighter suit colours, while evening events typically call for darker, more formal options. For formal weddings, a classic tuxedo or a dark-coloured suit (navy, charcoal, black) is a safe bet. Charcoal or dark grey suits (if specifically allowed by the invitation) can work for black-tie optional events.
The venue can also influence your choice of suit colour. For example, a beach wedding may call for lighter, more breathable fabrics and colours, while a formal church wedding may warrant a darker, more traditional suit colour.
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Suit fit: slim-fit or tapered trousers, well-fitting jacket
When it comes to suit trousers, there are a few key things to keep in mind to ensure they flatter your body type and are comfortable. Firstly, the width of the leg opening determines how much taper the trousers have. A slim-straight leg with a slight taper below the knee is a timeless and universally flattering look. This silhouette is likely to remain fashionable for years to come and works for almost any body type, including stockier men. It is worth noting that if the leg opening is wider than the rest of the leg, it creates a boot cut or bell-bottom effect, which is generally not recommended for suits.
If you prefer a slimmer fit, this can be easily altered, and if you opt for trousers with a perfect fit, you won't need a belt or suspenders. The "break" refers to the fold or bend near the ankle, and the amount of break is usually a matter of personal preference, affecting the final style and fit. The Full Break is the most traditional, with a significant amount of fabric folding near the ankle and a wider leg opening. The Half Break is a more modern version of this, with some fabric on top of the shoe but no exposed ankle, and a slimmer leg opening. No Break is a contemporary cut that exposes a small amount of ankle or sock when standing and is ideal for slim-fit trousers. Lastly, the Negative Break is typically less formal, with a short inseam that exposes the ankle and socks.
For the suit jacket, it should be fitted without being too tight. When buttoned, you should feel a gentle squeeze around your ribs and belly. If you can button the jacket without feeling any pressure, it may be too big, and if buttoning creates a pronounced "X" shape, it's too small. A subtle "X" pattern is acceptable if you prefer a snug fit. The sleeve opening should be gently tapered to accommodate your wrist size, and the width of the sleeve should be such that it can accommodate your dress shirt cuff and a wristwatch, if you wear one.
Regarding the overall suit fit, stocky men should consider a slim-fit suit. Slim-fit suits typically have a seven-inch drop, meaning they are designed for men with a larger drop of seven or more inches. This body type is characterised by broad and/or muscular shoulders, with a leaner waist and legs. Slim-fit jackets have broader shoulders, a tapered waist, and less room between the jacket and the body, creating a flattering V-shape.
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Accessories: shoes, ties, pocket squares, cufflinks, jewellery
When it comes to accessories, you have a lot of options to elevate your wedding attire.
Shoes are an important accessory to consider. If you're wearing a tuxedo, patent leather shoes are a classic choice. For a more casual wedding, loafers or brogues can be a good option, especially in warmer months. Don't forget to match your socks to your trousers to elongate your legs and create a streamlined look.
Ties and pocket squares are a great way to add a pop of colour and show your personality. For a formal wedding, stick to a classic black or white pocket square. For a more casual or playful wedding, you can choose a pocket square with a fun pattern or colour that complements the wedding colour scheme. If you're wearing a tie, a necktie is typically more formal, while a bow tie is a bit more playful. Again, you can have fun with colours and patterns here, especially if you're wearing a more neutral suit.
Cufflinks are a subtle but elegant accessory. You can choose something simple and classic, or go for a unique design that reflects your personality. Similarly, jewellery can be a great way to elevate your wedding attire. A nice watch, a ring, or even a simple chain necklace can add a touch of sophistication.
Lastly, don't forget about the smaller details like belts and socks. These accessories can help pull your look together and make you feel polished and confident.
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Where to buy: high street or online, with custom options
When it comes to where to buy wedding attire for stocky men, there are several options available, both on the high street and online.
High Street Options
High street shops such as Men's Wearhouse offer a range of wedding attire options for men, including expertly tailored tuxedos, sharp suits, and stylish separates. They provide custom clothing options to suit different body types and can help you create a polished and unified look for your wedding party with their coordination services and wedding packages.
Online Options
If you're looking for custom options, online retailers like The Black Tux and Men's Wearhouse can be excellent choices. The Black Tux offers guidance on wedding attire for grooms, groomsmen, and guests, taking into account dress codes, themes, venues, and seasons. They can help you navigate different dress codes and make suggestions for accessories.
Men's Wearhouse also has an online presence and offers custom clothing options to suit every body type. They provide customizable wedding packages with discounts for groups and wedding parties, ensuring a cohesive look for your wedding party.
Whether you choose to shop on the high street or online, it's important to consider the dress code, season, and your personal style when selecting wedding attire.
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Frequently asked questions
The dress code for weddings varies, so it's important to check the invitation. Some couples include a dress code, but if they don't, you can always ask for clarity. Common dress codes include black tie, formal, cocktail attire, and smart casual.
Black-tie weddings are formal events, and the dress code is usually traditional. As a male guest, you will be expected to wear a tuxedo. Tuxedo jackets are typically black, but you can also find other colours like cream. You can add accessories like a black and white pocket square, cufflinks, button studs, suspenders, and a cummerbund.
If the wedding is formal but doesn't specify black tie, you have more flexibility. You can wear a well-tailored classic three-piece suit in a good quality material like wool or linen. Pair it with a classic shirt in white, pale blue, or grey, and avoid patterned or shiny fabrics.
Cocktail attire is versatile and popular for weddings. It's more relaxed than black tie or formal dress codes. You can wear a medium-dark suit with a necktie, and show your personality with a unique pocket square or your favourite dress shoes. Navy blazers are a popular choice for cocktail events.
Ensuring the right fit for your wedding outfit is key. The sleeves of your suit jacket should end at the tops of your wrists, and the back of the jacket should fall around the top of your seat, neither too tight nor too loose. For suit pants, aim for a slim-tapered look, with the length ending towards the top of your shoes.
