Resizing A Wide Gold Wedding Band

Resizing a wide gold wedding band is a common procedure and can be done on most types of rings. However, resizing a ring can be challenging depending on the design and material of the ring. For example, resizing a ring with an ornate pattern or multiple stones may require the diamonds or gems to be moved around the band to balance the setting. Additionally, certain types of metals, such as titanium, tungsten, and stainless steel, are difficult or impossible to resize due to their material properties. When downsizing a ring, the jeweler usually cuts out a small portion of the band and joins the pieces back together. The ring is then soldered, cleaned, and polished to smoothen its surface and remove any signs of soldering. When upsizing a ring, the jeweler can either stretch the metal or cut and add additional pieces of metal. It is important to note that there is a limit to how much a ring can be resized, typically up to a maximum of two sizes.

Resizing limitations

Resizing a ring is a common practice, but there are some limitations to be aware of. Firstly, resizing is generally limited to a maximum of two sizes up or down. Attempting to resize a ring beyond this range can distort its shape, weaken its structure, and increase the risk of damage to the ring and its settings. This risk is especially prominent in rings with intricate designs, gemstones, or tension settings.

When resizing a gold ring, the type of gold alloy is an important consideration. Yellow gold is the easiest to resize due to its malleability, while white gold and rose gold can be more challenging due to their different alloys. However, an experienced jeweller should be able to resize any gold alloy.

Another limitation to consider is the ring's design. Elaborate or intricate designs with stones, engravings, or delicate settings may be difficult or impossible to resize without compromising the ring's integrity. In some cases, the ring's design may make it unsuitable for permanent resizing methods that require heat, as the heat could damage or destroy the ring. For example, stainless steel rings and ornate rings with designs spanning the full circumference should not be heated for resizing.

Additionally, resizing a ring can affect hallmarks or engravings on the inside of the ring. Therefore, it is essential to discuss any meaningful inscriptions with the jeweller before proceeding with the resizing process.

Finally, it is important to choose a reputable and skilled jeweller who can assess the ring's current size, design, and materials and provide appropriate resizing options. While resizing a ring is a common practice, it requires expertise and careful execution to ensure the ring's integrity and avoid damage.

Methods for resizing up

There are several methods for resizing a ring to make it bigger. Here are some of the most common techniques:

Ring Shanking

This method involves cutting a small portion out of the band and then adding a piece of metal to expand the circumference. The process involves carefully fitting the new piece of metal to the existing band, soldering it in place, and then smoothing and polishing the surface to blend the seams.

Stretching with a Mandrel and Hammer

This technique uses a ring mandrel and a hammer to gradually expand the size of the band. The jeweler places the ring on the mandrel and gently taps it with a wooden mallet or jeweller's hammer, moving it further down the mandrel with each strike to stretch the metal.

Using a Hydraulic Press or Roller

Depending on the type of ring and the extent of resizing needed, a jeweler may use a hydraulic press or roller to stretch the metal. This method is often used for more substantial resizing jobs.

Adding Metal to the Shank

In this method, the jeweler heats the ring to soften its metal and then expertly expands the circumference by adding metal to the shank. This technique can safely enlarge rings by half a ring size. After soldering and polishing, there are no visual signs of the procedure.

It is important to note that rings can typically only be resized up to two sizes larger or smaller. Additionally, some rings made of certain metals, such as titanium, cobalt, tungsten carbide, and stainless steel, cannot be resized due to the risk of breakage or difficulty in working with the metal.

Beading as a method for resizing down

Beading is a common method used to resize a ring down. This method is especially useful for people with large or swollen knuckles due to arthritis. It involves the jeweller soldering two metal beads, usually made of sterling silver, to the inner side of the ring. The beads fill the gap between the wearer's finger and the ring, allowing the wearer to have a comfortable fit without the fear of the ring falling off.

Beading is also a good option if you want to avoid damaging the exterior design of the ring. This is because the jeweller bypasses the cutting process, which can distort the design of the ring.

However, it is important to note that beading may not be suitable for all rings. For example, it cannot be used on rings made of ceramic carbide, tungsten, or titanium as these metals do not react to the soldering process. Additionally, certain coloured coatings on bands are flammable and may react oddly to the soldering process.

Beading can typically bring the ring down by three sizes. While it is possible to add larger beads to size it down further, the ring will begin to look a little ridiculous as the space between the finger and the ring will be very visible.

The cost of sterling silver beads is usually around $35, and the process takes about a day. However, if you require beads made of a different metal or additional finishing work such as polishing, the price and turnaround time will increase.

Using a tensioned metal strip to resize down

Using a tensioned metal strip to resize a ring is a common method used by jewellers. This method is often used when a ring needs to be made smaller and is a good option for those with large knuckles.

The process involves placing a horseshoe-shaped, tensioned metal strip on the inner surface of the ring. The metal strip will gently close the gap between the ring and the finger, keeping the ring in place comfortably. This method ensures that the ring fits snugly and securely on the finger, without any risk of it spinning or moving around.

This technique is particularly useful for wide gold wedding bands as gold is a soft metal that is easy to work with and can be resized as much as needed. It is also a good option for those who do not want to alter the appearance of their ring, as the metal strip is discreet and not visible from the outside.

It is important to note that while this method is effective for making a ring smaller, it may not be suitable for all ring designs. For example, rings with intricate engravings or detailed patterns around the band may be difficult to resize using this method as it could alter the structure and final look of the ring. Additionally, some rings with precious stones may not be suitable for this method, as the tensioned metal strip could affect the setting of the stones.

Therefore, it is always recommended to consult a professional jeweller to determine the best resizing method for your specific ring. They will be able to assess the ring's design, stone settings, and material to determine the most appropriate resizing technique.

Sizing down by cutting and soldering

Sizing down a ring by cutting and soldering is a common method used by jewellers. This process involves carefully cutting out a small section of the metal, usually from the bottom of the band, and then joining the two remaining ends with heat and a soldering agent.

Step 1: Examine the Ring

Before starting the resizing process, carefully examine the ring and compare it to the information on the job envelope. Look for any damage or potential problems that need to be addressed. Inform the customer or store manager if you find any issues.

Step 2: Measure the Ring

Measure the thickness and width of the ring shank and record these measurements. This will help ensure that you don't thin the shank too much during the resizing process. Measure the ring's current size to determine if it needs to be sized up or down.

Step 3: Mark the Amount to Remove

Mark the back of the shank to indicate the amount of gold or metal that needs to be removed. For downsizing, the difference in one size is usually 2.5 millimetres. Cut the back of the shank at one side of the centre if you need to size down by 3 or more sizes. Straighten the back of the shank and mark the amount to be removed.

Step 4: Cut the Ring

Using a saw, carefully cut through the ring at the marked location. Remove the excess metal and reshape the ring, ensuring a precise fit with no visible gaps. You may need to use a file to true the seam before soldering.

Step 5: Group the Rings by Metal Type

To increase efficiency, group the rings on your bench according to metal type and colour. For example, group all 14k yellow gold rings together, all 14k white gold rings together, and so on. This will streamline the soldering process.

Step 6: Prepare the Solder

Place enough solder on your soldering pad to close all the rings. Make a small pile of solder for each metal type.

Step 7: Begin Soldering

Hold the torch in one hand and use locking tweezers to pick up a ring in the other hand. Dip the ring in boric acid and alcohol, then place it on the soldering pad. Light the ring with the torch and solder the shank closed. Repeat this process for several rings, lighting the torch only once and soldering multiple rings before turning it off.

Step 8: Cool and Clean the Rings

Place the soldered rings aside to cool. Once cooled, rinse and dry the rings. File the inside of the rings to smooth out any excess solder and hammer across the solder joint to work-harden the sizing area.

Step 9: Straighten and Polish the Rings

Use a ring mandrel and mallet to straighten out the rings and ensure they are the correct size. Use a double-faced mallet with a brass side and a nylon side to avoid stretching the shank. File the sides and back of the shank to remove any remaining solder and hammer marks. Finally, polish the rings to restore their shine.

Frequently asked questions