Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress is a once-in-a-lifetime outfit, and it's important to feel comfortable and confident on your big day. One way to achieve this is by adding a waist stay to your dress. A waist stay is a loop of ribbon that hooks around the narrowest part of your waist and is sewn to the bottom of the boning, helping to relieve the weight of the dress from your shoulders and upper edge, securing it to your torso. This guide will take you through the process of adding a waist stay to ensure your wedding dress is not only beautiful but also comfortable and secure.
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What You'll Learn
Using a waist stay
A waist stay can be a great way to cover up the waistband of your wedding dress and ensure a secure fit. It is a simple addition that can be easily sewn into your dress, providing support and comfort.
Firstly, source a length of grosgrain or Petersham ribbon, around ⅝" to 1" wide. The ribbon should be the exact length of your waist, with an additional 6" to work with. You will also need a set of waistband hooks and eyes, similar to those on a bra or swimsuit.
The first step is to mark your waistline on the inside of your dress to ensure the waist stay is correctly positioned. You can then fold your ribbon in half and pin it to the centre of the waistline, before continuing to pin it along the waistline seams and darts, as well as the zip openings to hold it in place.
The next step is to hand-tack the ribbon to the seams and darts, backstitching for added security. You can attach the ribbon to both the front and back darts for extra hold. Try on the dress and adjust the pins so that the waist stay fits securely. If desired, you can add an extra hook or row of stitches to accommodate different waist measurements.
Finally, attach the hooks and eyes, ensuring the hook faces away from your body, with the ribbon creating a barrier between your skin and the metal. You can use smaller hooks and eyes for a prettier finish, and cover any metal parts with the ends of the ribbon.
This method of using a waist stay is a great way to provide support and comfort on your wedding day, ensuring your dress fits securely without relying on the bodice or sleeves.
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Opting for a basque-type waist
The basque waist is one of the most prominent fashion trends at the moment, with its roots in the Victorian era. The style first emerged in the Basque region of Europe, where women wore corsets with bodices that extended past the waistline and around the hips, creating an hourglass shape.
Basque waist wedding dresses have a longer or dropped bodice, meaning they are fitted past the belly button before flaring out into a ball gown or A-line silhouette. This elongates the body, making it especially flattering for brides with shorter torsos. The distinct V-shape of the basque waistline creates a focal point at the centre of the body, accentuating the waist and hips.
Basque waist dresses can be styled in a variety of ways to suit different bridal visions. For a modern twist on this vintage-inspired trend, mix and match different elements, such as pairing a floral embroidered bodice with a streamlined charmeuse skirt. For a more regal look, choose a basque waist gown with thin straps, a full skirt, and a square or V-cut neckline. Finish the outfit with a cathedral-length veil and delicate handcrafted lace gloves.
When choosing a basque waist wedding dress, it is recommended to consult with a personal bridal stylist to find the best style for your body type and preferences.
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Choosing an empire waistline
An empire waistline is a classic choice for brides-to-be, and it's easy to see why. This style of wedding dress is characterised by a high waistline that begins just under the bust, creating a flowy, ethereal look that elongates the torso. It's a perfect choice if you want to draw attention away from your midsection and towards other aspects of the dress or your body.
Empire waistlines are typically paired with an A-line silhouette, reminiscent of the Regency Era. This combination is a favourite among brides due to its romantic and ethereal aesthetic. The cut is particularly flattering for those with a smaller bust, as it creates a natural emphasis on the upper body while camouflaging the waist and hips. However, it can be adapted for a variety of body types.
When choosing an empire waistline, it's important to consider the fabric and embellishments. Lightweight and ethereal fabrics, such as chiffon or tulle, are commonly used to create a sense of movement and elegance. Embellishments such as lace, embroidery or beading can also be added to enhance the romantic style.
If you're concerned about finding the right fit, it's worth consulting a personal bridal stylist or seamstress. They can help you navigate the tricky world of waistlines and ensure your dress is comfortable and flattering. Additionally, consider adding a waist stay to your dress. A waist stay is a ribbon, often made of petersham, with an adjustable hook, that helps to relieve the weight of the dress from your shoulders and keeps it securely in place. This can be especially useful for strapless dresses.
Overall, an empire waistline is a charming and versatile choice for your wedding dress, offering a timeless and elegant look that will make your special day even more memorable.
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Adding a waistband to a strapless dress
A waist stay can be added to a strapless dress to help keep it in place. This is a loop of ribbon that hooks around the narrowest part of your waist and is sewn to the bottom of the boning. It can be elastic but is more often made of petersham, a type of ribbon, with an adjustable hook.
To add a waist stay to a strapless dress, you can follow these general steps:
- Cut 2.5" wide strips of fabric. The width can be adjusted depending on how much support you need, and you may want to cut wider strips for more support.
- Sew the strips of fabric to the dress at the waist, creating a loop that hooks around your waist.
- Add an adjustable hook to the ribbon to secure the waist stay in place.
- Ensure that the waist stay is independent from the garment and not stitched continuously to a seam allowance.
- If you are adding elastic to the top of a strapless dress, you will need to stretch it as you go. Put the elastic on in two passes: once to apply it and then again to fold it over and stitch it down.
- If the elastic goes all the way around, sew it into a circle first and then check the fit on your body. It should be slightly snug but still comfortable.
- You can also add boning to the waist stay to provide additional support and help the dress stay in place. Soak the boning in boiling water to relax the plastic and then press it flat before inserting it into the dress.
- If you are adding straps to a strapless dress, cut fabric strips that are about 14" long. Sew the straps to the dress, positioning them flat with the band and tacking them across the top.
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Measuring your waistline
Locate Your Natural Waist
The first step is to find your natural waist, which is the narrowest section of your torso, typically just above the belly button. To locate it, feel for the indent between your rib cage and hips. You can also try standing straight and bending to one side—the crease created is your natural waist.
Prepare for Measurement
Remove any bulky clothing that might interfere with the tape measure. It is recommended to wear only the underwear you plan to wear on your wedding day, as even a bra or nylon tights can affect the measurements. If you intend to wear shapewear, consider putting it on before measuring.
Measure Your Waist
Using a flexible tailor's tape measure, wrap it around your back, under your arms, and across the narrowest part of your natural waist. Ensure the tape is levelled in a straight line and comfortable, with enough room to fit a finger between the tape and your waist. Stand tall, breathe naturally, and avoid sucking in your stomach or holding your breath to obtain an accurate measurement.
Additional Tips
- Take multiple waist measurements at different times of the day, especially after eating, to account for any fluctuations.
- Ask a friend to assist you with measuring to ensure accuracy and comfort.
- Compare your waist measurement to the designer's size chart when ordering your dress. Each designer has a unique size chart, so it is essential to refer to their specific measurements.
- If your dress is custom-made, consider taking additional measurements, such as the "hollow to hem," which measures from the centre of your collarbone to the bottom of the dress. Wear bridal shoes or shoes with similar heel heights for accurate hollow-to-hem measurements.
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Frequently asked questions
A waist stay is a loop of ribbon that hooks around the narrowest part of your waist and is sewn to the bottom of the boning. It can be elastic or made of petersham, a type of ribbon, with an adjustable hook.
To measure your waist for a wedding dress, start by finding your natural waist, which is the narrowest section of your torso, usually just above the belly button. Remove any clothing that might get in the way of the tape measure, like bulky sweaters or high-waisted pants. Take multiple measurements, ask a friend for help, and measure again after eating to ensure accuracy and comfort.
Here are some tips for covering up the waistband on your wedding dress:
- Consider adding a waist stay to provide more support and relieve the weight of the dress from your shoulders.
- Choose a cover-up that complements the style of your dress, such as a blazer, cardigan, shawl, or cape.
- For a ball gown, enhance the grandeur with a faux fur stole, satin capelet, or embellished shrug.
- If you're having an outdoor wedding, protect the bottom of your dress with a spray-on fabric protector or by wrapping a sheet around the hem.
