Franklin Dean
A wedding dress bustle is a technique used to lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, allowing the bride to move around with ease and dance without guests stepping on the train. It also helps to prevent tripping hazards and protect the fabric from damage. While almost any wedding dress can be bustled, gowns with intricate lace or unique silhouettes may require custom bustling techniques. A dress with a lace overlay, for example, can be bustled in various styles, depending on the silhouette of the dress. One option is to create separate bustles for the bottom layer and the overlay, using clear buttons or hooks and loops. Another option is to use an American or French-style bustle, which are known for their simplicity and versatility.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, allowing the bride to move around with ease and preventing the dress from getting soiled |
| Types of bustles | Regular, over, American, French, ballroom, Austrian |
| Wedding dress with buttons down the back | Stick to American or French-style bustle |
| Gown with intricate lace or unique silhouettes | Custom bustling techniques may be required |
| Train length | For a heavy train, multiple bustles may be needed |
| Number of bustle points | Depending on the desired look, the American bustle can have one or more bustle points |
| Example of a lace overlay dress | Eden Bridals GL024 |
| Technique for lace overlay | Cut little holes in the lace overlay and attach loops that attach to buttons above |
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What You'll Learn
A two-layer bustle with hooks and buttons
Step 1: Prepare the Dress
Before you begin, consult with your seamstress to ensure that a two-layer bustle is the best option for your dress's silhouette and fabric. Heavier fabrics, such as lace with intricate details, may require custom bustling techniques and more support. It is important to be open about your needs, such as the type of venue and planned activities, so your seamstress can recommend the most functional option.
Step 2: Attach the Hooks and Buttons
Attach the hooks and buttons to the dress, preferably at the waist or hip line. For a two-layer bustle, you will need to create two separate bustles, one for the bottom layer and one for the lace overlay. You can use clear buttons or hooks to ensure they blend seamlessly with the lace. Place the fasteners high up on the train, near your lower back, to keep them hidden.
Step 3: Connect the Fasteners
Once the hooks and buttons are in place, connect them to create the bustle. For the bottom layer, you can attach a tie to the underside seam of the skirt, ensuring it is not visible from the outside. Then, connect the hook or button on the train to this tie, pulling the skirt off the floor. Repeat this process for the lace overlay, creating a second bustle. Ensure that each connection is tight and secure to prevent the bustle from coming undone.
Step 4: Adjust and Style the Train
After fastening the hooks and buttons, adjust the train to ensure it looks symmetrical and feels comfortable. Check that the bustle does not restrict your movement and does not create unnecessary bulk. A well-fitted two-layer bustle should feel effortless and complement the style of your dress. If you wish to showcase the lace overlay, consider styling the train in a way that preserves the beauty of the lace design.
Creating a two-layer bustle with hooks and buttons for a wedding dress with a lace overlay requires careful planning and execution. By following these steps and working closely with your seamstress, you can achieve a functional and elegant look for your special day.
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The American or 'over' bustle
The American or over bustle is one of the simplest and most versatile styles of bustle. It is created by attaching the mid-point of the train to a button or hook at the waistline on the outside back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection for light dresses with shorter trains, or with multiple points of connection for heavier fabric or longer trains. This style is well-suited to dresses with a lace overlay, as it can showcase the lace border around the hem and train.
To create an American or over bustle, you can start by attaching an eye hook or button to the outside of the wedding dress, high up on the train near the lower back. This should be hidden within the seams with creative decoration. Next, attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Unlike other styles, ribbons are not typically used for an over bustle, as they would be visible. Instead, use a hook-and-eye system. Once connected, the underside of the skirt should be lifted completely off the floor. You can then straighten out the train, arranging any details on the tail as desired. Additional sets of hooks and eyes can be attached to create multiple pickup points for extra flair.
The American or over bustle is a popular choice for brides who want a low-maintenance and simplistic style. With just one single point of connection down the centre of the gown, this style is easy to create and attach on the wedding day. It is also a versatile option, as it can be adapted to suit any style of gown, from a full ballgown to a fit-and-flare or a flowy chiffon dress. The appearance of the bustle will vary depending on the shape and fabric of the skirt, so it is important to consider the silhouette of the dress when choosing this style.
While the American or over bustle is generally a simple and versatile option, it may not be suitable for all dresses. For example, a trumpet dress with a lace overlay may require a different style of bustle, as the overlay may be a different colour to the underlay. Additionally, dresses with buttons down the back may find it difficult to execute certain bustle styles, including the American or over bustle. It is always recommended to consult a seamstress to determine the best type of bustle for the specific dress silhouette.
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French bustle for a cascading effect
A wedding dress bustle is a tailoring technique that lifts the train of a wedding dress off the floor, fastening it securely to the gown's back. It allows the bride to move around with ease and alleviates the fear of tripping over a long train. It also protects the fabric from damage during the reception.
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, tucks the train underneath the dress, creating a cascading effect. This style is ideal for dresses with a natural waistline silhouette. For most wedding dresses, multiple pickup points are needed to ensure proper weight distribution. The seamstress adds colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown, and the train is tucked up and under as each hook is matched with its pair, creating a streamlined fold.
Creating a French bustle requires specific sewing materials and tools for optimal results. Precise measurements are vital for a symmetrical and properly balanced bustle. A professional-grade measuring tape is essential for marking bustle points and ensuring even distribution. You will also need to choose fasteners that suit your dress style and weight. Plastic rings can be used with bias tape to create secure loops, while traditional hooks and eyes provide reliable support for heavier fabrics.
The French bustle is a stunning option that isn't overly complicated. It creates sophisticated tiers while maintaining the dress's natural flow, resulting in an understated two-layer hem that enhances the dress's silhouette.
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Ballroom or Austrian bustle for unique silhouettes
The ballroom bustle and Austrian bustle are perfect for brides who want to create unique silhouettes that complement different dress designs. The ballroom bustle is well-suited for formal weddings and structured gowns with heavy fabrics. It elegantly conceals the length of the train by tucking it under the gown, making it appear as though the dress has no train at all. This style also pairs beautifully with structured ballgowns.
The Austrian bustle is a unique option that gathers the train fabric in a way that resembles draping or ruching. Inspired by Austrian theatre curtains, this method uses a drawstring to pull up any excess fabric. It works well for lightweight fabrics like chiffon or organza and adds a romantic, whimsical touch to your dress. It is a great choice for brides looking for something unconventional yet stunning.
The English option, similar to the ballroom style, works best for gowns with long trains but a more tailored silhouette near the hips. The train is picked up and attached to the outside of the dress, creating a symmetrical design. For an asymmetrical look, the sling option, or "side sling" bustle, can be a surprisingly easy and cost-effective way to make a statement.
Ultimately, the choice of bustle depends on your gown's silhouette and your personal preferences. Consult your seamstress to determine what's possible for your specific dress, as certain styles may require creative solutions.
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Custom techniques for intricate lace or heavy trains
Intricate lace and heavy trains on wedding dresses may require custom bustling techniques. It is important to consult a seamstress to determine what is possible for your specific dress. If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can try sewing a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it. Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress using a secure knot, and then sew the button about a foot above the bride's knees. This is the simplest and cheapest way to bustle your dress, but it is not recommended for heavier dresses.
For heavier dresses, you can try an over bustle, which is done by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with multiple points of connection for a heavier fabric or longer train. If you are concerned about the added weight causing strain on the fastening points, choose a bustle style that distributes the load evenly.
Another option is to attach an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress, high up on the train near the lower back. Attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt, and connect the hook and eye. This will completely lift the underside of the skirt off the floor. You can attach more sets of hooks and eyes if desired to lift the back of the dress and display any decorative work on the train.
If the bustle breaks on your wedding day, don't panic. Safety pins, double-sided tape, or fashion tape can be used as quick fixes.
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