Junior Rasmussen
Bustling a wedding dress is a process of altering the gown to lift its train, allowing the bride to dance freely without guests stepping on it. This is done through various bustle points where the train is attached to the rest of the gown using buttons, hooks, ties, or snaps. The American or over-bustle is a popular choice for its simplicity and versatility, with bustle points at the waist or hip line to pull the train up and over the gown. Brides with tulle wedding dresses often face the challenge of managing multiple layers, requiring careful layering and draping by an experienced tailor or seamstress. Some brides opt for an invisible bustle with tiny layers to make the train disappear, while others prefer showcasing their dramatic train with multiple bustle points for a draped look.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | To bustle a wedding gown means to alter it to lift the train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one |
| Types of Bustle | American or French-style bustle, Train flip bustle, Over bustle |
| Number of Points | 1, 3, 5, 7, 14, 25 |
| Considerations | The number of bustle points depends on the desired look, the weight of the fabric, and the number of layers |
| Preparation | Arrange for at least two people to help with bustling the dress; bring a bridesmaid to the fitting to learn how to bustle the dress and take videos for reference |
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What You'll Learn
Bustle points: hooks, buttons, ties, snaps
Bustling a wedding dress refers to the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over her dress. Nearly all full-length gowns have bustle points in the form of hooks, ties, or buttons sewn into the wedding dress train to create a uniform hemline after the ceremony.
The number and placement of hooks, buttons, ties, or snaps will depend on the type of bustle and the silhouette of the gown. A seamstress or tailor will be able to recommend the best type of bustle for the dress and sew the necessary bustle points into the gown. For example, an American bustle or over bustle has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of the dress, enabling the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for a dramatic look. On the other hand, a French bustle or underbustle uses hooks to pick up the train of the gown and tuck it under the silhouette, often with ribbons attached to secure the fabric. This style is better suited to gowns with a more natural waistline.
A royal bustle can also be created with either one or multiple pickup points, using hooks and eyelets to lift the train. The more pickup points, the more dramatic the effect, as the folds add dimension to the silhouette. This style is perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back, as the fabric can be folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under the bow.
Regardless of the type of bustle, it is important to have a trusted individual, such as a bridesmaid or family member, who knows how to properly fasten the bustle. They should attend the final alterations appointment to learn how to do it directly from the seamstress or tailor.
In addition to manual bustling, there are also tools available to help secure bustles, such as the Button + Bustle Hook, which can make gown changes faster and easier, protecting the fabric from oils and tugging.
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The American bustle: one or more points at waist or hip line
The American bustle typically involves one or more points at the waist or hip line to create a structured and elegant look for your wedding dress. Here are some detailed instructions to help you achieve this style:
Firstly, it is important to understand the purpose of bustling your dress. The reason for creating a bustle is to lift the train of your dress off the ground, allowing you to walk and dance freely during your wedding celebrations. This is especially important if you want to keep your dress clean and avoid tripping.
Now, for the American bustle technique, you have the option of choosing a single-point bustle or a multi-point bustle. A single-point bustle involves one pick-up point, usually at the waist or hip line, where the fabric is gathered and secured, creating a simple and elegant drape. This option is ideal if you want a subtle bustle that doesn't take away from the overall design of your dress.
On the other hand, a multi-point American bustle will have two or more pick-up points at the waist or hip line. This style is perfect for dresses with multiple layers of tulle or other fabrics, as it ensures that each layer is lifted off the ground gracefully. The more points you have, the more secure and structured the bustle will be, reducing the risk of it coming undone during your wedding.
When creating an American bustle, it is essential to work with a skilled seamstress or tailor. They will be able to guide you through the process, ensuring that the pick-up points are correctly placed to flatter your silhouette and that each layer of your dress is properly bustled.
Remember to communicate your preferences clearly to your tailor and ask for their professional opinion on what would work best for your specific dress. It is always a good idea to do a trial run and see how the bustle looks and feels before making a final decision.
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French bustle: ideal for lace overlay dresses
The French bustle is a well-loved style for wedding dresses, forming a vintage look with bustle points that pull the train fabric up and under the gown. It is ideal for lace overlay dresses as it does not interfere with the lace border around the hem and train.
French bustles are formed by sewing loops through all layers of the dress, which are then pulled together and under for a French bustle. This style is best suited for dresses with a uniformly distributed design over the train area. It is also a good option for dresses with buttons down the back, as this feature can make executing certain bustle styles more difficult.
French bustles can be created with a single point or multiple points, depending on the desired look and the weight of the fabric. A single point in the centre of the gown is a low-maintenance and simplistic option, while multiple points create a draped look and ensure the train is lifted off the ground.
However, it is important to note that French bustles can make the train look bulky, especially with a large volume of fabric. This style may not be suitable for those who want to showcase the lace overlay, as it can result in a lumpy rather than flowy appearance.
Ultimately, the choice of bustle style depends on the bride's preference and what she feels most comfortable with. It is recommended to consult a seamstress or tailor to determine the best option for the specific silhouette and train style of the dress.
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Invisible bustle: tiny layers to hide the bustle
If you want to keep your wedding dress's bustle hidden, there are a few options to consider. Firstly, an invisible bustle or underbustle can be achieved by bustling the dress underneath, so that the train is hidden inside the dress. This option may not be ideal if you plan to unbustle and rebustle multiple times, as the train may get dirty from dragging on the ground.
Another option is to use hooks, eyes, buttons, loops, or ribbons to support the bustle. These can be sewn into the train at specific points to keep it off the ground. While these riggings may be visible when the bustle is down, they are typically very small and unnoticeable. If you prefer to hide them, consider positioning eyes within lace and beading so they seem like a part of the dress's design. You can also purchase buttons that match the beading on your gown, or use original buttons from the centre seam to support the bustle.
Additionally, a bubble bustle can be created by adding ties under the dress, similar to a French bustle. This option can be nearly invisible, with tiny hooks and loops added inside the seams of the train.
If you prefer to avoid a bustle altogether, there are a few alternative solutions. One option is to create a finger loop or a wrist loop, which makes dancing easier and allows you to keep the train. Another option is to remove the train entirely and opt for a long and elaborate veil instead. Ultimately, the best approach will depend on your personal preference and the style of your dress.
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Separate the lining and tulle for less weight on points
Tulle is a lightweight and airy fabric often used for wedding dresses. Its fullness and volume are created by using several layers of fabric. When bustling a tulle wedding dress with many layers, it is important to consider the weight of the gown. Separating the lining and tulle can help reduce the weight and improve the overall look of the bustle.
The process of separating the lining and tulle involves creating a separate underskirt or underlayer for the tulle overskirt. This technique reduces the bulk at the waist and creates a more flattering silhouette. By having a less full under skirt, the weight of the tulle overskirts is distributed more evenly, reducing the strain on the bustle points.
To separate the lining and tulle, you can follow these steps:
- Measure and cut the tulle: Determine the desired length and width of the overskirt, considering the fullness you want to achieve. Cut the tulle fabric accordingly, allowing for seams and gathering.
- Create the underskirt: Use a lightweight fabric for the underskirt, ensuring it is less full than the tulle overskirt. Sew the underskirt, attaching it to the waistline of the dress.
- Gather the tulle: Gather the cut tulle fabric by sewing one or two rows of long basting stitches. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the fabric and create the desired fullness.
- Attach the tulle overskirt: With the underskirt in place, attach the gathered tulle overskirt to the waistline. You can use a straight stitch with a matching thread to create a seamless finish.
By separating the lining and tulle, you reduce the weight and bulk of the dress, making it easier to create a secure and functional bustle. This technique ensures that the bustle points can hold the weight of the tulle layers effectively, reducing the risk of breakage during the wedding. It also allows for a more graceful drape and flow of the tulle layers, enhancing the overall appearance of the dress.
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Frequently asked questions
Bustling is a way of altering a wedding dress to lift its train, allowing the gown to function as though it doesn't have one. This is often done so that the bride can dance freely without guests stepping on the train.
The American bustle, or "over-bustle", is one of the most basic and versatile styles. It consists of one or more bustle points scattered at the gown's waist or hip line, pulling the train up and over the rest of the gown. The number of points can vary from one to seven, depending on the desired look. Another type is the French bustle, which is recommended for dresses with buttons down the back.
It is recommended to bring a bridesmaid to your fitting so they can learn how to bustle your dress. Taking videos of the seamstress bustling the dress can also be helpful. Additionally, make sure to arrange for at least two people to help with bustling on the day, as it may require multiple people to hold the fabric and tie it up.
