Lyla Dejesus
Adding lace to a wedding dress is a great way to elevate your bridal look. Whether you're adding a lace overlay to a simple wedding dress or sewing an all-over lace gown, there are a few things to keep in mind. It is important to choose the right type of lace, such as Alençon lace, which is popular for bridal wear, or stretch lace, which is easier to sew. Additionally, consider the technique you will use to attach the lace, such as using an appliqué seam or a lace invisible seam to avoid visible raw edges. For those on a budget, it may be more cost-effective to attach the lace yourself, but keep in mind that sewing lace can be challenging due to the delicate nature of the fabric.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Technique | "Lace invisible seam" |
| Steps | First, mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-color basting stitch along each stitch line |
| "It's really difficult to sew the lace on top of the existing dress. It might be easier to take the top off completely and reconstruct the bodice with the lace." | |
| "A floating lace layer can’t be seamed like other fabrics because a normal seam would look unsightly through the fabric as the raw edges would be visible." | |
| "Internet research suggested the way to join lace seamlessly is to zig-zag around the shapes of the pattern and trim away the excess close to the seam – this is known as an appliqué seam." | |
| "Cotton French lace, very expensive 4.5m loom piece = $900 AUD, so I was very careful to plan the approach on paper." |
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What You'll Learn
Using a lace invisible seam
To start, mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a basting stitch in a contrasting colour along each stitch line. This will make the stitching lines more visible. Then, line up the stitching lines, overlapping the pieces. Once the pieces are lined up, cut along the edge of the lace motif. Finally, stitch the lace in place.
It is important to note that this technique is time-consuming and requires more effort than other methods. However, it creates a seamless and elegant finish that is worth the extra time and effort.
Some additional tips for using the lace invisible seam method include using a coloured thread that is not black, as the lint from black thread can be difficult to remove. It is also important to leave enough lace for the overlap when cutting the lace in the overlap area.
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Hand stitching lace
Hand-stitching lace to a wedding dress is a delicate process that requires careful planning and execution. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you achieve a beautiful and seamless result:
Prepare the Lace and Fabric:
Start by gently hand-washing the lace with fabric detergent and lukewarm water. Lay it flat to dry. This step softens the lace, making it easier to work with. Identify the right and wrong sides of the lace. The right side is the front, or the side you want to be visible. Plan the placement of the lace on the wedding dress fabric and cut the lace accordingly.
Choose the Right Needle and Thread:
Install a new, thin universal needle in sizes 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10 (for thicker lace). A thinner needle works best with lace. Select a thread that closely matches the colour of your lace to create an almost seamless look. Poly-blend thread is stronger than cotton thread and is less likely to break when working with delicate lace.
Sewing Technique:
A medium width and length zigzag stitch is ideal for sewing lace onto fabric. You can also use a running backstitch, especially if the lace includes beads or sequins, as this stitch type ensures the seams won't be under too much stress. If you are gathering the lace before attaching it to the dress, consider using a baste stitch first. This makes it easier to gather the fabric than pinning and then sewing.
Hints and Tips:
To create an invisible seam, consider using a "lace invisible seam" technique. This involves marking the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-colour basting stitch along each stitch line, overlapping the pieces, and then cutting along the edge of the lace motif before stitching it in place. Motifs can also be used to disguise seams, direct the eye, and fill in blank spots.
By carefully following these steps and taking your time, you can achieve a beautiful and seamless lace application to your wedding dress.
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Using a water-soluble stabiliser
Water-soluble stabilisers are a great option for lace work on wedding dresses. They are particularly useful when you want to dissolve the stabiliser rather than tear, cut or heat it away. They can be used for a variety of techniques, including lace work, buttonholes, embroidery, and appliqué.
When using a water-soluble stabiliser for lace on a wedding dress, it is important to choose the right type for your project. For example, lightweight water-soluble stabilisers like Solvy or Super Solvy are ideal for placement and can be used for buttonholes. If you are using a heavier lace, you might opt for Ultra Solvy (film-type) or Fabri-Solvy (fabric-type).
You can also use water-soluble stabiliser in a similar way to paper. Paper Solvy, for instance, can be rinsed away with water and is ideal for printing. If you need something more stable, Sticky Fabri-Solvy has an adhesive side so you can stick your pattern directly to your fabric.
Water-soluble stabilisers are also available in roll form, which is ideal for free-standing lace projects. These can be used for embroidery and in-the-hoop designs, as well as machine embroidery lace projects. They are also useful for keeping stitches from sinking into the fabric.
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Attaching lace to darts/seams
Attaching lace to darts and seams can be a tricky process, but with careful planning and preparation, you can achieve a seamless and beautiful effect. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:
Preparing the Lace:
Before you begin sewing, it is important to prepare your lace fabric. Wash the lace gently by hand with fabric detergent and lukewarm water, then lay it flat to dry. This step helps soften the lace and make it easier to work with. Use sharp scissors or a sharp rotary cutter to cut your lace, ensuring you don't stretch it out of shape.
Choosing the Right Needle and Thread:
Select a sharp sewing needle that matches the weight of your lace fabric. If you're working with stretch lace, you will need a stretch needle to avoid skipped stitches. Choose a thread that closely matches the colour of your lace to create an almost seamless look. Poly-blend thread is stronger than cotton thread and is less likely to break when working with lace.
Sewing Darts:
Darts are commonly used in wedding dresses to shape the fabric and create a fitted look. When attaching lace to darts, consider hand stitching for a delicate and precise finish. You can use a lap applique technique to attach the lace to the darts, creating a seamless effect. If you're working with densely patterned or thin lace, you can sew the top as usual. However, if you're using open guipure lace, you'll need to address how to seam across the holes.
Sewing Seams:
When sewing seams with lace, there are several techniques you can use to achieve a seamless look. One popular method is the appliqué seam, where you zig-zag stitch around the shapes of the pattern and then trim away the excess fabric close to the seam. This technique helps to minimise the visibility of the seams. Another option is to use French seams, especially if your lace has a finer and more open pattern. French seams provide a neat and elegant finish.
Additionally, consider using a baste stitch to gather your lace before attaching it to the seams. This technique makes it easier to gather the fabric and create a uniform look. Always cut your lace pieces wide at the side that will be seamed, allowing for more flexibility in matching patterns and creating a seamless effect.
By following these steps and adapting them to your specific lace and fabric, you can successfully attach lace to darts and seams, creating a stunning and elegant wedding dress.
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Using a dissolvable stabiliser
Prepare the Lace and Wedding Dress Fabric
Before you begin, it's important to prepare your lace and wedding dress fabric. Gently wash the lace by hand with fabric detergent and lukewarm water, then lay it flat to dry. Pre-washing the lace will make it easier to work with. Cut the lace according to your desired pattern or shape, ensuring that it matches the wedding dress fabric.
Choose the Right Dissolvable Stabiliser
Select a dissolvable stabiliser that is suitable for lace work. One option is to use a water-soluble stabiliser like Dissolve or Dissolve-4x, which is specifically designed for lace and embroidery. Dissolve-4x is four times thicker than regular Dissolve, providing a firmer base for stitching.
Attach the Stabiliser
Cut the dissolvable stabiliser into the desired shape or pattern. Place it on top of the wedding dress fabric, exactly where you want the lace to be attached. The stabiliser will provide a stable surface for you to work on.
Stitch the Lace
With the stabiliser in place, you can now stitch the lace onto the wedding dress fabric. Use a thread that matches the colour of your lace to create a seamless look. Hand-sewing is often recommended for a natural blend, but you can also use a sewing machine with a thin needle (sizes 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10) and a medium zigzag setting for the edges.
Remove the Stabiliser
Once your stitching is complete, it's time to remove the stabiliser. Simply soak the fabric in water or wash it in the washing machine. The dissolvable stabiliser will wash away, leaving you with a beautiful lace detail on your wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
There are a few ways to attach lace to a wedding dress. One way is to use a "'lace invisible seam'", a couture technique to sew lace seams without straight-line seam allowances. First, mark the pattern lines on the lace by running a contrast-color basting stitch along each stitch line. You can also attach lace directly into the darts/seams of the dress.
Point D’Esprit lace is the simplest type of lace, characterized by woven dots on sheer tulle. This lace is suitable for a sweetheart neckline bodice, a layered skirt, or a veil.
Handmade lace is time and labor-intensive, so it may be better suited for smaller lace details. Machine-made lace is produced more quickly and is better for larger areas or an entire gown.
First, lay the skirt part of the dress out flat. Then, fold the lace in half and lay it at the bottom of the skirt, marking with tailor's chalk where the skirt needs to be taken in so that the lace will fit all the way around. Pin up to the waist and sew, trying it on to ensure it's not too tight before cutting away the excess material. Finally, sew on the lace by lining up the ends of the folded-over lace with one of the seams on the side of the skirt.
Lace is a versatile fabric that works well with various wedding dress silhouettes, body types, and aesthetics. Alençon lace is one of the most popular bridal laces, featuring florals, scrolls, and medallions, and can be beaded for a sparkly effect.
