George Boyle
Wedding dresses are often bustled to allow the bride to move around freely and comfortably during the reception. An American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt, with the fabric folding over itself. This can be done with one point of connection or multiple points, depending on the fabric and length of the train. The American bustle is a simple and elegant way to transform the silhouette of a wedding dress, allowing the bride to dance and move around without worrying about the train getting in the way.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To allow the bride to move around freely without the train of the dress getting soiled or stepped on |
| When to bustle | Between the wedding and reception |
| Who does it | Seamstress, maid of honour, bridesmaid, parent, or close friend |
| Simplicity | Simple for the seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day |
| Appearance | The fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt, creating a cascading feel |
| Flexibility | Brides can choose one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for extra flair |
| Comparison with French bustle | Less strong than the French bustle, which is also known as the under-bustle |
| Number of hooks | One, three, or five hooks |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between an American bustle and a traditional bustle
The American bustle is a simple and elegant way to add drama to a wedding dress. It is a popular choice for brides as it allows them to move freely without worrying about guests stepping on the train. This style is created by raising and securing pieces of the outside of the train to the waistline of the dress. Hooks or loops are added along the waistline, and the train is then fastened across multiple points, creating the look of elegant pleats at the waist. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for an ultra-dramatic look. It is an easy bustle for a seamstress to create and simple to attach on the wedding day.
The traditional bustle, also known as the French bustle or under-bustle, is the opposite of the American style. It has the train fold under itself instead of over, creating an understated, two-layer hem that adds design to the back of the dress. This style is created by tying a series of ribbons or attaching hooks underneath the gown's train. The ribbons are often colour-coordinated and numbered to make it easy to bustle the dress before the reception. The French bustle is a stunning option that is not overly complicated to create.
While the American bustle and the traditional bustle are similar, the main difference lies in the pickup placements. The American bustle has the fabric fold over, while the traditional bustle has the fabric fold under. The American bustle also tends to transform the silhouette of the dress from the back, making the train disappear, whereas the traditional bustle maintains the original look of the dress.
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How to sew an American bustle yourself
Sewing an American bustle yourself can be a challenging task, but it is possible with the right tools and techniques. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew an American bustle for a wedding dress:
Plan the Bustle Points
The first step is to decide on the number of bustle points you want. An American bustle can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points, depending on the desired look. Mark these points with pins along the waistline of the dress. These points will be where the hooks or buttons are sewn.
Prepare the Ribbons and Loops
Cut ribbons of your chosen length, usually around 6-8 inches, and fold them in half. Stitch these ribbon loops securely to the underside of the dress's train, positioning them just below the pin marks. Reinforce the loops with small pieces of interfacing or by attaching them to the seam allowances of the dress.
Sew the Hooks or Buttons
At each pin mark along the waistline, sew a hook or button. Stitch them securely, as they will bear the weight of the train. If using buttons, you can opt to sew them onto the waist of the dress, with the loops on the train. If using hooks, they will be attached to the loops on the waistline.
Fasten the Loops
Once all the loops are attached to the train, fasten them to the corresponding hooks or buttons. Adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous look. You can also sew lace appliqués over the hooks or buttons to conceal them if desired.
Tips and Considerations
- Practice good hand hygiene when working with the fabric to prevent soiling.
- American bustles are not as sturdy as French bustles, so they may need extra reinforcement.
- Always have safety pins on hand for last-minute adjustments.
- The one-point overbustle is not suitable for heavy dresses or those with long trains.
- The wrist bustle is another simple option for lightweight trains, creating an asymmetrical look.
By following these steps and adapting them to your unique dress, you can create a beautiful American bustle that will add drama and functionality to your wedding dress.
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How to attach an American bustle to a wedding dress
An American bustle is a simple way to add drama to the back of a wedding dress, allowing the bride to move freely without worrying about guests stepping on the train. This bustle style can have one, three, or even five pickup points for an ultra-dramatic look.
To attach an American bustle, you will need to sew loops or hooks onto the dress. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the train, and use a needle and thread to create a loop at this point. Repeat this process to add multiple loops or hooks if desired. Once the loops or hooks have been added, fasten them to buttons or hooks on the upper part of the back of the skirt, creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. You can adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.
If you prefer a more subtle look, you can attach a tie to the seam of the underside of the skirt. Sew an eye hook to the end of the train and attach the tie to the eye hook, pulling the tie to bunch the skirt. This will pull the back of the dress off the ground, allowing the bride to move around with ease.
It is important to note that American bustles are not as strong as French bustles, so there is a chance the bustle may break during the wedding. It is recommended to have safety pins on hand for extra support.
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How to choose the right American bustle for your dress
Choosing the right American bustle for your dress is an important decision, as it will impact the overall look and feel of your wedding gown. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the perfect American bustle:
Dress Silhouette
Consider the silhouette of your dress when choosing an American bustle. The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, works well with ball gowns or gowns with long, narrow trains. It adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading effect as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. This style can transform the silhouette, making the train disappear and giving the illusion of a floor-length gown.
Number of Pickup Points
American bustles can have one, three, or even five pickup points, also known as fasteners or hooks. The number of pickup points will impact the overall look of the bustle. If you prefer a simpler look, opt for a single statement pickup point. For extra flair and a more dramatic effect, go for multiple pickup points.
Ease of Movement
One of the main purposes of an American bustle is to allow the bride to move freely during the wedding reception. If you plan on greeting guests, dancing, or walking around a lot, an American bustle will help prevent your train from getting in the way or being stepped on. This style of bustle allows you to lift and hook the train over the top of the gown, making it a practical choice for an active bride.
Personal Preference
Ultimately, the right American bustle for your dress is the one that you feel most comfortable with and that complements your personal style. Work closely with your seamstress or bridal stylist to decide on the best option for your gown. They can guide you through the process and help you choose the number of pickup points, placement, and any additional details, such as ribbons or bows, to ensure your dress is everything you've dreamed of.
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The difference between an American bustle and a French bustle
An American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a simple and popular way to bustle a wedding dress. It involves raising and securing the outside of the train over the back of the gown to the waistline. This is done by adding loops or hooks along the waistline, which enable the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. Brides can choose to have one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for added flair. This style can transform the silhouette of the dress from the back, making the train disappear.
A French bustle, on the other hand, is also known as an under-bustle or Victorian bustle, and it is the opposite of the American style. Instead of the train folding over, it tucks under the silhouette of the gown. This creates an understated, two-layer hem that adds design and flair to the back of the dress. Seamstresses often add colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown to make bustling easier. This type of bustle is ideal for gowns with a more natural waistline.
The main difference between the two styles is the placement of the train. The American bustle has the train folded over and hooked above the waistline, creating a cascading effect. In contrast, the French bustle tucks the train under the silhouette, resulting in a more understated look. Additionally, the American bustle is known for being simple and easy to attach, while the French bustle offers more flexibility with numerous pickup points.
Both the American and French bustles are popular choices for wedding dresses, as they allow the bride to move freely during the reception and can add drama and flair to the gown. Ultimately, the choice between the two styles depends on the desired look and the specific characteristics of the dress.
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Frequently asked questions
An American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a style of bustle that folds up and over the gown. It is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection or multiple points, depending on the fabric and length of the train.
An American bustle adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt. It also allows the bride to move around freely after the ceremony without worrying about guests stepping on the train.
To create an American bustle, you can sew loops onto the dress and then fasten the loops to buttons or hooks. You can adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can conceal them with lace appliqués.
You should bustle your wedding dress after the ceremony and before the reception. This will allow you to move around and dance freely without the train getting in the way. It is also a good idea to have a designated person attend your dress fittings so they can learn how to properly bustle your dress.
