George Boyle
Wedding dress alterations are an integral part of the bridal fashion journey. Most wedding dresses are designed with a standard length, so brides often need to shorten the skirt to avoid stepping on the hem. The front of a floor-length wedding dress should ideally be about an inch off the floor, while the back can touch the floor. The process of altering a wedding dress length involves adjusting the hemline so that the bride can move with ease on their special day.
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What You'll Learn
Hemming a wedding dress
If the wedding dress has a train, the process becomes more complicated. Before cutting the fabric, it is important to pin up the hem all the way around to ensure that the bride is happy with the length and the train. It is also crucial for the bride to have chosen her shoes before any hemming takes place, to ensure the correct length is achieved. The bride should bring the shoes she plans to wear to her fitting, and the hem can be marked with her standing on a step, using an adjustable skirt hem maker to mark where the skirt touches the floor.
It is generally recommended to use a professional seamstress to alter a wedding dress, especially if the dress has multiple layers or decorative lace at the bottom. A professional will be able to deconstruct the dress at the waist and hem each layer of the skirt before sewing the lace back on. However, this can be an expensive process, with quotes ranging from $25 to $200 for hemming alone.
If you are planning to hem the dress yourself, it is important to be aware of the potential pitfalls. Even the slightest weight from fabric and pins can affect the length, so it is recommended to cut a bit long and then reassess. You can use thread tacks to mark important spots without leaving permanent marks.
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Adding or removing straps/sleeves
Adding or removing straps or sleeves to your wedding dress can be a great way to increase coverage, support, or comfort, or simply to achieve your dream style.
If you want to add straps to your dress, you can opt for a strapless bodice with a lace bolero or cape, or even opera gloves for a formal wedding. You can also add lace, beaded, or applique straps to your dress, or go for a more unique look with beaded Swarovski straps. If your dress has spaghetti straps, you can easily sew lace cap sleeves onto them, or add lace straps over the top. For dresses with wider tulle straps, detachable balloon sleeves made of tulle are a good option.
If you want to add full sleeves, you can cut and sew them with the same fabric as your dress, or remove them from a different dress. You can also opt for detachable sleeves, which can be easily attached and removed with buttons, hooks, or snaps, allowing you to change up your look throughout your wedding day. When adding full sleeves, it's a good idea to make the straps at least 3 inches wide, as this will ensure they provide adequate support. Keep in mind that if the straps are too wide, they will alter the shape of the neckline.
If you're unsure about the sleeve length, start with a long sleeve, as you can always shorten it later. Capped sleeves are also a good option, especially if you're new to sewing, as they are the easiest to add. Off-the-shoulder sleeves are another popular choice and can be paired with spaghetti-strap gowns. If you want to add a unique touch, consider adding diagonal hems on the sleeves, puffed sleeves for narrow shoulders, or elbow-length sleeves to draw attention to a defined waist.
When removing straps or sleeves, it's important to consult a professional seamstress, especially if you want to sew in permanent sleeves. They will be able to remove the straps and ensure that the dress still fits perfectly.
It's important to start the alteration process early and leave plenty of time for fittings and tailoring. On average, 3-4 fittings are needed, with the first fitting reviewing what needs to be tailored and modified, and the final fitting trying on the dress one last time.
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Shortening or removing a train
A wedding dress train can be shortened or removed entirely, depending on the bride's preference. If the bride wants to keep the train but is concerned about comfort and practicality, a temporary solution like bustling or wrist loops can be implemented.
Bustling involves lifting and securing the extra fabric of the train. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, where the fabric is attached to the outside of the dress using buttons, loops, or hooks; the French bustle, where the fabric is tucked underneath; and the Austrian bustle, which gathers the fabric with a drawstring effect.
Wrist loops are another option, where a loop is sewn into the underside of the train, allowing the bride to hold the train in one hand while walking and preventing it from dragging.
If the bride prefers a permanent solution, the train can be shortened by carefully cutting and re-hemming the fabric. This process should aim to maintain the gown's original design, and extra attention may be required for lace or beaded edges to ensure a polished finish.
In some cases, the train can be converted into a detachable piece with hidden snaps or buttons, allowing it to be removed after the ceremony for a more manageable length during the reception or dancing.
When removing the train entirely, it is important to consider the weight distribution of the dress. Removing the train fabric will cause the skirt to shift towards the front, so it is crucial to measure the hem with the bride in the dress to ensure a proper fit.
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Taking in or letting out the dress
Wedding dresses can be taken in to reduce the size or let out to increase it. It is generally easier for professionals to reduce the size of a wedding dress than to increase it, as the amount a gown can be let out depends on the available seam allowance. Taking a gown down one or two sizes is common and should preserve the integrity of the original design. However, the closer to your actual size, the better, as this will save money and the gown will look best when it is closest to how it was designed. If you have fallen in love with a sample gown that is multiple sizes too large, a talented tailor can often reshape the dress, but this will be expensive and time-consuming and may not be able to preserve specific details of the gown.
If you are planning to lose weight, it can be very difficult to know where this weight loss will occur, so it is best to consult with your stylist and tailor for sizing concerns before ordering. If you are pregnant or have recently had a baby, this is especially important. Some dresses will have extra seam allowance and can be let out a size without any structural changes, but if you need to go up more than one size, your tailor will have to get creative. They may need to lower the back of the gown, open the armholes, install a corset back, or make discreet side panels.
If your dress doesn't fit after you've ordered it, don't worry. If you have lost weight, the gown can be taken in at each fitting until it fits perfectly. If you have gained weight, the seams can be opened and extra fabric can be released. If there is not enough fabric to work with, fabric can be ordered from the designer, and a panel can be added to the dress.
It is recommended that you buy your wedding dress 10 months before the wedding and schedule a fitting eight to 12 weeks before the big day. This will give you time to make any necessary alterations.
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Adding a bustle
There are several types of bustles to choose from, each with a different aesthetic and varying in difficulty to create. The standard or regular bustle, for example, is when the train's end is tucked under the back of the dress, creating the appearance of a bubble hem. The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection or multiple points for a heavier fabric or longer train. The French bustle, also known as a Victorian or under-bustle, is the opposite of the American bustle, with hooks used to catch the train as it is tucked under the silhouette. Ribbons are often used to connect and secure the fabric and can have multiple pick-up points for added flair.
If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can sew a bustle onto your wedding dress yourself. To create a loop, insert a needle into the underside of the dress, make a small stitch, and pull the thread most of the way through. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit your button. You can also add a wrist loop to carry the train of your dress on your arm.
It is best to become familiar with the various wedding dress bustle options and their mechanics before going to your first fitting. You will also need to enlist the help of your maid of honour, a bridesmaid, parent, or close friend to help you with bustling your dress on your wedding day. Make sure that this person attends a fitting with you so they can learn how to execute the perfect bustle.
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Frequently asked questions
It is recommended that you buy your wedding dress 8-10 months before the wedding and schedule a fitting 2-3 months before the big day to allow for alterations and adjustments.
The length of a wedding dress will depend on your height and the type of shoe you plan to wear. If you are wearing heels, bring them to your fitting so that the tailor can adjust the hemline to the correct length.
This will depend on the style and fabric of the dress, as well as your body type. It is typically easier for professionals to take a dress in than to let it out. Taking a gown down one or two sizes is common and should keep the integrity of the original design.
Hemming a lace wedding dress can be tricky as it may change the look of the hem or train. It is best to use slip stitches by hand that can be easily hidden within the lace designs.
Other common alterations include adding straps or sleeves, removing the train, adding a bustle, adjusting the bust, taking in the waist, and shortening straps.
