Rhiannon Hendricks
A wedding dress that fits like a glove is the key to feeling your best on your big day. While many assume that their dream dress will fit them off the rack, the reality is that alterations are often needed to ensure the gown conforms to the unique lines of your body. This is especially true if you are shorter or taller than average, or if the dress is too small or too large in certain areas. Alterations to the bodice of a wedding dress are common, and can include taking in or letting out the seams, adjusting the straps or waist, or adding sleeves.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Importance of alterations | Conforming to the lines of your body, an altered dress gives you high-octane drama with a made-to-measure finish. |
| Number of fittings | Brides should expect 2-3 fittings, depending on the style and size of the dress. |
| Cost | $50 to $1,000 depending on the work required. Some salons charge per service, while others charge a flat fee. |
| Timing | Schedule the final fitting for one to two weeks before the wedding. |
| First fitting | The first fitting typically lasts one hour as the tailor begins to assess the dress and alterations needed. |
| Subsequent fittings | Each fitting after the first should take less time as the dress gets closer to the perfect fit. |
| Making the dress smaller | Taking in the side seams or the princess seams (the seams in the front of the bodice) and sometimes the back area. |
| Making the dress bigger | Adding additional fabric by the side seams or replacing the back zipper with a corset back. |
| Adding straps or sleeves | Seamstresses can typically order matching lace fabrics from the designer to create straps or sleeves. |
| Hemming the dress | Keep the lace trimming on the bottom of the dress, the compression of the design, and the layers of fabric that will need to be hemmed in mind. |
| Modifying the bodice | Taking the bodice and the skirt apart and readjusting both pieces to refit. |
| Bodice sitting low | Show the tailor where you want it to sit, and they can stitch in a grosgrain internal waistband to prevent slipping. |
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What You'll Learn
Taking in or letting out seams
Step 1: Assess the Dress
Before beginning any alterations, it is important to carefully examine the construction of the dress. Identify the seams that can be adjusted, such as the front, back, side seams, or princess seams. Determine whether the dress has extra fabric at the seams, as this is necessary for letting out the dress. Check if the dress has a zipper or lining that might affect the alteration process.
Step 2: Measurements
Take accurate measurements of the wearer's bust, waist, and hips. Measure the dress at the same points, either by laying it flat and doubling the side-to-side measurements or by trying it on inside out and marking the tight areas. Calculate the difference between the body measurements and the dress measurements to determine how much to adjust the seams.
Step 3: Mark the Alterations
With the dress inside out, use a marking pen to indicate the areas that need to be adjusted. Mark from the top of where the dress starts to feel tight down to where it becomes comfortable. This will guide how much of the seam needs to be altered.
Step 4: Adjust the Seams
If you are taking in the dress, carefully pin the fabric along the new seam line and try it on to ensure a proper fit. If you are letting out the dress, use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitches from the old seam, releasing the extra fabric. You can then stitch a new seam with smaller seam allowances to create more room.
Step 5: Stitching
Once you have adjusted the seams and confirmed the fit, it is time to stitch the new seams. Carefully stitch along the new seam lines, ensuring that the fabric layers are aligned correctly. If there is a lining, tack it to the bodice fabric to prevent shifting.
Tips and Considerations:
- When letting out a seam by 1/4" on each edge, you gain 1/2" per seam, which can quickly add up.
- If you need to let out the bodice at the armscye point, you will also need to adjust the sleeves unless the bodice is sleeveless.
- Taking in or letting out a side seam by more than an inch can result in uneven seams at the intersection between the lining and the fashion fabric, requiring a new seam line.
- If you need to adjust the dress by more than what the seams can provide, consider alternatives such as adding a corset back or extra material.
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Adding fabric or replacing zippers
Altering a wedding dress bodice can be a challenging task, and it is recommended that only a professional seamstress attempts it. However, here is some advice on how to alter a wedding dress bodice by adding fabric or replacing zippers.
Adding Fabric
Adding fabric to a wedding dress is an option if the dress is too small and needs to be expanded. This can be done by adding fabric to the side seams. However, it is important to note that this may not be a simple process, as the fabric used for the expansion will need to match the original fabric of the dress. Obtaining matching fabric may be costly and difficult, and the final product may look like two different dresses stitched together.
Replacing Zippers
If the wedding dress bodice is too big, one option is to replace the back zipper with a corset back, which can help make the dress fit better. However, removing and replacing a zipper is a complex process that can be difficult, especially for a wedding dress that has many layers of fabric. It may be possible to alter the dress without removing the zipper by taking up the waistline or adjusting the fabric around the zipper. This can be done by pinning up the fabric and deciding how much to raise the waistline before making any cuts.
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Adjusting the waist, straps, or armholes
Adjustments to the waist, straps, and armholes are some of the most common alterations made to a wedding dress bodice. These adjustments can be made by a skilled bridal seamstress, who will work with you to understand your desired changes.
If the bodice is too long and the bust point is not landing at the bust line, the shoulders can be adjusted to move the bodice up slightly. This can be done by unpicking the facing or lining about 2" below the shoulder seam on the front and back neckline and armholes. The dress fabric shoulder seam can then be stitched by machine, and the facing or lining can be hand-stitched back in place. This method can also be used for dresses with straps, by pinning the straps at the shoulder and then marking and detaching the straps at the back.
If the armholes are too big, the shoulders can also be adjusted to make the armholes smaller. This can be done by taking up the shoulders, which will move the widest part of the bodice up and make the armhole smaller.
If the waist needs to be taken in, this can be done by adjusting the side seams or princess seams (the seams in the front of the bodice). If the dress is too small, fabric can be added to the side seams, or the back zipper can be replaced with a corset back.
Straps can be adjusted by seam ripping the waistline and shortening the straps as needed. If the dress has cups, these can be added between the layers once the bodice is removed.
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Shortening or lengthening the bodice
Altering the bodice of a wedding dress is a common adjustment to ensure the dress fits perfectly. This process can involve shortening or lengthening the bodice to achieve the desired look and feel. Here is a detailed guide on how to shorten or lengthen a wedding dress bodice:
Shortening the Bodice
To shorten a bodice that is too long, you can cut the dress in the middle where it is narrowest and overlap the fabric. The amount of overlap will depend on how much you want to shorten it. This method is suitable if there are not many decorations, such as rhinestones, that need to be peeled off and reattached. You can either hand-stitch or machine stitch the overlapped area, depending on your preference and the fabric's characteristics.
Another approach is to open the "waist" seam from side to side and gently tuck the centre upwards, tapering it towards the edges. This method avoids altering any lace at the bottom of the dress. Additionally, you can raise the shoulder seams to shorten the bodice and achieve a better fit.
Lengthening the Bodice
To lengthen the bodice, you can add a lengthen/shorten line perpendicular to the grainline on the pattern. Cut the pattern along this line. Then, slide a piece of scrap paper underneath and tape the top part of the pattern to it. Extend the grainline onto the scrap paper and draw a guideline to indicate the desired length. Align the bottom pattern piece with the grainline and the guideline, taping it in place. Finally, redraw the seams, creating a smooth line, and cut away any excess paper.
Additional Tips
When altering the length of a bodice, it is essential to consider your personal measurements and preferences. Comparing the pattern to a similar top that you like the length of can be helpful. Additionally, if you plan to wear specific undergarments, such as a particular bra or shapewear, on your wedding day, it is advisable to wear them during fittings to ensure the bodice fits perfectly.
In conclusion, altering the length of a wedding dress bodice can be achieved through careful cutting, overlapping, and stitching. These adjustments ensure the dress fits snugly and comfortably, enhancing the overall look and feel for the wearer.
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Fixing a sliding or ill-fitting bodice
Altering a wedding dress bodice can be a tricky process, but it is important to ensure the dress fits perfectly and makes the wearer feel their best. Here are some detailed instructions for fixing a sliding or ill-fitting bodice:
Identify the Issue
First, identify the specific issue with the bodice. Is the fabric sagging or pooling around the neck? Are there fit issues with the sleeves or bust? Is the fabric distorted or stretched? Once you know the problem, you can begin to fix it.
Adjusting the Sleeves and Bust
If the issue lies with the sleeves or bust, you may need to adjust the width on both sides of the bicep line. This will require modifying the sleeve and the bodice to ensure the measurements match. You may also need to adjust the sleeve cap height and/or the bodice armscye length. If the bust size needs adjusting, you can take in or let out the side seams or princess seams (the seams in the front of the bodice).
Shoulder Adjustments
Shoulder slope adjustments may be necessary if there is excess fabric in the neckline or if the fabric sags and pools. Measure how much excess fabric there is, pinch it out, and cut around the seamlines on the bodice. Push that sliver of fabric up by the same amount, redraw the shoulder seam, and true up the waistline. Repeat for the back bodice.
Broad Back Adjustment
If the bodice feels tight across your upper back, you may need a broad back adjustment. This can be achieved by cutting a larger size to fit your shoulders and adding a small bust adjustment. Alternatively, you can cut your pattern in hinges, allowing you to slide the shoulder outward while maintaining the armscye length and general shape.
Working with a Seamstress
It is always recommended to work with a professional seamstress for wedding dress alterations. They can assess the dress and your body to determine the necessary alterations. The seamstress will work with you to ensure the dress conforms to your body shape, giving you the confidence to walk down the aisle.
Remember, the process of altering a wedding dress bodice may vary depending on the style and fabric of the dress, as well as your unique body shape. It is always best to seek the advice of a professional to ensure the perfect fit.
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Frequently asked questions
Alterations ensure that a bride's wedding dress fits her perfectly, meets all of her specifications, and most importantly, makes her feel like her most beautiful self.
Most bridal gowns are made for a 5'10" woman. If you are shorter or taller than this, you will need to hem your dress. When hemming, keep in mind the lace trimming on the bottom of your dress, the compression of the design, and the layers of fabric that will need to be hemmed.
Your bridal boutique will either have an in-house seamstress or they will be able to recommend a trusted tailor to do the job.
