George Boyle
Tambour embroidery is a technique that uses a hook to create a chain stitch instead of the traditional needle and thread. It is an excellent way to add dimension and sparkle to sheer garments with its sparkling beads and sequins in Art Deco-inspired motifs. To add tambour embroidery to a wedding dress, one must first prepare the materials and start the thread, then perform the basic tambour stitch, and finally finish the thread at the end. The process involves designing the embroidery, setting up a slate frame, and stitching. It is recommended to use a hoop on a stand or an embroidery loom, with translucent fabrics like silk organza or embroidery tulle to start.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Translucent fabrics like silk organza or embroidery tulle; silk taffeta, linen, or cotton |
| Tools | Tambour embroidery handle, hook, and hoop; slate frame; pins; twill tape; beads |
| Techniques | Chain stitch; adding beads from the top or bottom; basic stitch |
| Benefits | Adds dimension and sparkle to sheer garments; works up quickly |
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What You'll Learn
Preparing your materials and starting the thread
Preparing your materials is an important step in achieving a good finish when adding tambour embroidery to a wedding dress. You will need a tambour embroidery handle that feels comfortable in your hand and has a bolt that won't loosen over time. You will also need a tambour embroidery hook, with a size 70 hook being the most commonly used with beads. If you plan to use thicker threads, consider a larger hook. You will also need a slate frame, which is better than a hoop as it allows you to stretch the fabric taut and have both hands free. However, a hoop is okay for beginners. If using a slate frame, you will need pins and a large roll of twill tape to 'dress' the frame.
For fabric, translucent fabrics like silk organza or embroidery tulle are recommended when starting out. Once you are comfortable, you can use materials like silk taffeta, linen, or cotton. Choose a fabric that is woven, flat, and see-through. For thread, a wax-coated one is recommended as it is sturdier and prevents the needle from snagging or shredding the thread.
When you are ready to start, cut your fabric and baste around the piece so that you know your limitations once it is hooped. Remove your pattern piece and baste the outline of your embroidery. If using silk organza, you can draw the piece on with a heat-disappearing pen. Now, hoop your fabric tightly. The word 'tambour' means 'drum' in French, which references how tight the fabric needs to be on the hoop. If it is too loose, it will be difficult to bring the hook through the fabric and you may snag your thread or fabric.
To put the hook and handle together, place the size 70 hook into the handle, lining up the eye of the hook with the screw. With the hook perpendicular to the fabric, loosen your grip slightly on the thread from the bottom and pull the thread to the top of the fabric. Move a few millimetres to the left and put your hook through the fabric. Repeat this process to create a basic chain stitch, which you can build upon to add beads and create intricate embroidery pieces.
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The basic tambour stitch
To get started with the basic stitch, you will need a tambour embroidery handle, a hook, and some thread. The hook typically comes in three sizes: 70, 100, and 120. Size 70 is the most commonly used with beads, while size 120 can be used with embroidery thread for lace or intricate embroidery. The handle should be nice to hold and have a bolt that won't loosen over time.
Before you begin stitching, set up your tambour hook correctly. Ensure that the knob on the handle and the opening of the hook point in the same direction. This is important because, while working, you can always see the knob, but not the opening of the hook. Knowing where the opening is will help guide your stitching.
To anchor the thread in the fabric, you need to learn the chain stitch. Make a loop with the thread in your left hand and bring it under the fabric. With the hook in your right hand, bring it down through the fabric and hook the loop, then bring the thread back to the top of the fabric. Place a pin near the thread and wrap the thread around it.
When inserting the needle, ensure that the opening of the needle is on the same side as the locking screw. This makes it easier to evaluate the direction of the crochet points during embroidery. Practice on a piece of fabric, trying out different stitches and textile decoration techniques. Organza is a good fabric to start with, but you can also use tulle.
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Finishing the thread
There is no "absolute way" to finish the thread when performing tambour embroidery. However, there are several methods that can be used. One way is to use a waste knot to anchor the thread, which involves leaving small knots that will eventually need to be removed and secured. Another method is to start with a tiny stitch that locks in the thread, and then use a touch of white glue on the hanging thread, clipping it to about half an inch.
When finishing the thread, it is important to ensure that the fabric is stretched tightly within the hoop or frame, resembling a drum, as this word is where the technique gets its name. The fabric should be pulled taut and the hoop screw tightened as far as possible. This helps to prevent puckering and snagging.
The type of thread used is also important. A non-divisible thread is recommended, such as DMC Cordonnet Special in size 70, which has a nice finish and forms crisp, substantial stitches. Alternatively, plain Gütermann 100% cotton sewing thread can be used for finer details. High-quality thread is essential for creating smooth chain stitches with the hook.
For beading, the beads should be threaded onto the working thread before beginning. A thin needle can be used for this, and the starting thread should be pulled to the working side and secured with a few stitches. The beads are then pushed into place with the left hand, and the thread is wrapped around the hook to lock them in. Finally, the stitch is finished in the same way as a basic stitch.
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Using a hoop on a stand or embroidery loom
When using a hoop on a stand, it is important to ensure that the fabric is taut on the hoop. Tambour embroidery requires the fabric to be tight, as the hook needs to move through the fabric with ease. If the fabric is too loose, the thread can snag. The ideal hoop size will depend on the size of the project. For larger projects, a larger hoop, such as a 10" hoop, is recommended. This allows you to hoop up large pieces of fabric while still being able to clamp them into the frame. A larger hoop also means you don't have to move the hoop around as much, increasing your speed.
There are a few options for the type of stand to use. A table-top stand is a good choice for its affordability and sturdiness. The Lacis table-top tambour stand is an example of a stand that includes a hoop and is relatively affordable at $31. An adjustable hoop clamp can also be used to hold the hoop and can be adjusted to different heights, making it a good option for those who want to work on their project in various locations, such as at a table or on the couch.
When using a hoop on a stand, it is important to consider the size of the beadwork in relation to the size of the hoop. If the beadwork is larger than the frame, it can be difficult to move the hoop around without crunching the beads between the inner and outer rings. In this case, a slate frame may be a better option, as it allows you to roll the fabric over one of the arms of the frame as you work, exposing new areas for beading without damaging your previous work.
Practising with the hoop, stand, and embroidery technique is key. Start by stitching in one direction, whichever is most comfortable for you, and keep practising until you have the movement of the hook down. From there, continue to practise until you can stitch in all directions with ease.
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Adding beads from the top or bottom
When adding beads, it is important to ensure that your fabric is tightly hooped, as tambour embroidery requires the fabric to be tight like a drum. You can use a slate frame or a hoop on a stand to achieve this. If using a slate frame, you will need pins and a large roll of twill tape to 'dress' the frame. Once your fabric is securely in place, you can begin adding your beads from the top by following the path of your design.
Another technique to keep in mind when adding beads is the "false stop" method. This involves behaving as if you've finished the work, but instead of ending, you move on to a different part of the design. This can be helpful when working with complex designs or when you need to skip to another area without cutting the thread.
When adding beads from the bottom, the process is similar, but you will be working in the opposite direction. You can use the same size 70 hook for adding beads from the bottom, ensuring that your fabric is tight and your design is transferred onto the fabric.
With practice and experimentation, you can create intricate and sparkling embroidery pieces using the tambour technique, adding dimension and beauty to your wedding dress or any other garment.
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Frequently asked questions
Tambour embroidery is a technique that uses a hook to create a chain stitch instead of the traditional needle and thread. It is believed to have originated in India and spread to Europe in the mid-1700s.
You will need a tambour embroidery handle, a size 70 hook, organza fabric, and high-quality thread. A slate frame is recommended, but you can also use a hoop.
First, cut your fabric and baste around the piece to know your limitations once it is hooped. Remove the pattern piece and baste the outline of your embroidery. Ensure the fabric is tight on the hoop to successfully perform the technique.
Place the size 70 hook into the handle, lining up the eye of the hook with the screw.
Sketch your design onto your fabric or netting. You can use a water-soluble fabric marker or a heat-disappearing pen if using silk organza. The best designs for Tambour embroidery are those that can be worked in one continuous line.
