Deborah Chan
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to prevent the bride from tripping over her dress and to make it easier for her to walk and dance freely after the ceremony. A bustle pulls the back of the dress off the ground and there are several types of bustles to choose from, including the American, French, Austrian, Ballroom, Train-Flip, and Royal bustle. The process of adding a bustle is complex and time-consuming, so it is best left to a professional seamstress or tailor. The cost of adding a bustle can range from \$75 to \$400, depending on the type of gown and the complexity of the bustle. It is important to have someone help the bride with bustling the dress on the wedding day, usually the maid of honor or another member of the bridal party.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to add a bustle | After the wedding ceremony |
| Why add a bustle | To prevent the bride from tripping over the dress and to protect the dress from getting soiled |
| Who adds a bustle | Seamstress or tailor |
| Cost | $75 to $400 |
| Types of bustles | American, French, Austrian, Ballroom, Train-Flip, Royal, Victorian, Bow, Wrist |
| How to add a bustle | Using buttons, ribbons, hooks, loops, or a wristlet |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a bustle style: French, American, Ballroom, Train-Flip, or Royal
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress is about more than just convenience; it's about preserving the integrity of your gown. A bustle keeps the train of your dress off the ground, ensuring that it stays clean and intact, even after hours of mingling and dancing. It also allows you to move with ease and showcase your gown in a new light.
When choosing a bustle style, you can consider the following options: French, American, Ballroom, Train-Flip, or Royal. Each style has its own distinct look and functionality. Here are the details of each:
- French Bustle: This style tucks the train of the dress under itself, creating a cascading effect. It is known for its understated, two-layer hem that adds a subtle design element to the back of the gown. This style is perfect for those who want a seamless and elegant look without changing the overall appearance of the dress.
- American Bustle: The American bustle is one of the most popular choices due to its simplicity and versatility. In this style, the train is lifted and fastened to the outside of the dress using buttons, hooks, or loops. It creates a clean, symmetrical look that pairs well with A-line and ballgown silhouettes. It is also a good option if you won't have someone to help you with your dress on your wedding day, as it is less complex than some other styles.
- Ballroom Bustle: Also known as the Austrian bustle, this style creates a unique silhouette that complements different dress designs. It completely hides the train, giving the appearance that the dress has no train at all. This is achieved by tucking the train under the gown, resulting in a seamless, floor-length look. It is well-suited for formal weddings and structured gowns with heavy fabrics.
- Train-Flip Bustle: This modern approach, also known as the flip-over bustle, is simple and comfortable. It flips the train up and secures it at the waist, creating a minimalist look with minimal fuss. It is an excellent choice for brides who want ease of movement and a sleek, uncomplicated appearance.
- Royal Bustle: This style is fit for a queen—quite literally. It is grand and dramatic, adding volume and dimension to the back of the gown. The royal bustle is perfect for those who want to make a statement and have a train that demands attention.
When deciding on a bustle style, it is essential to consider your gown's silhouette and your personal preferences. Discuss your options with an experienced seamstress during your early fittings to ensure that your dress is tailored to perfection and that your bustle complements the overall look and feel of your wedding ensemble.
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Hiring a seamstress or tailor with bustle experience
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress is a complex process that requires the expertise of a professional seamstress or tailor with bustle experience. Here are some tips for hiring the right one:
First, ask for recommendations from the bridal boutique where you purchased your dress. They often have relationships with experienced seamstresses who specialize in wedding dress alterations, including adding bustles. Word-of-mouth referrals from recently married friends can also be a great way to find a skilled and trusted seamstress.
When researching seamstresses, look for those with extensive experience in wedding dress alterations and bustle additions. Read online reviews and testimonials from previous clients to gauge the quality of their work and their expertise in handling delicate wedding gowns.
Before hiring, schedule a consultation with the seamstress to discuss your specific dress and bustle options. They should carefully assess your gown's fabric, design, and train length to recommend the most suitable bustle style. During the consultation, ask about their experience with different bustle types, such as French, American, Austrian, or wrist bustles, and request to see examples of their previous work with similar styles.
Cost is another important consideration. The price of adding a bustle can vary depending on the seamstress's expertise and the complexity of your dress and chosen bustle style. Be sure to get a detailed quote, including any additional costs for other alterations or rush fees if you have a tight timeline.
Finally, ensure your seamstress provides clear instructions on how to secure the bustle properly. They may even offer to demonstrate the bustling process to your maid of honor or a bridal party member who can assist you on your wedding day.
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Adding buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons to secure the train
Planning the Bustle
Firstly, decide on the type of bustle you want. The most common types are the French, American, and Austrian bustles, but there is also the wrist bustle for lightweight trains, which creates an asymmetrical look. The American bustle is the simplest option and is suitable for light dresses without long trains. For a more unique look, the Austrian bustle is created with a series of ribbons sewn inside the dress, allowing the gown to be pulled tightly together down the center back.
Marking the Dress
Put the wedding dress on the bride-to-be or a dress form of the same height. Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Pinch a small spot of fabric halfway down the train, lift it to the pin, and adjust the train so the hem falls as desired. This may take several attempts to get the right drape and length. Once the correct spot is found, mark it with another straight pin.
Sewing the Fastenings
Sew the chosen fastening—either a button, hook, or loop—onto the waist of the dress where the straight pin is located. If using a button, sew a matching ribbon loop about 1 inch long where the pin is on the train. For hooks, attach an eye hook to the end of the train, concealing it with embroidery or beading. If using ribbons, sew them onto the inside of the dress. Ensure all fastenings are securely stitched, and add a small piece of interfacing underneath for reinforcement if needed.
Final Adjustments
With the dress on the bride-to-be, grasp the ribbon loop and attach it to the button. Check that the train is falling as desired. If using hooks, fasten them, and adjust the fabric for a fuller look. If the buttons or hooks are visible and you would prefer them concealed, hand-sew lace appliqués on top.
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Practising bustling the dress before the wedding day
Practising bustling your wedding dress before the big day is essential to ensure you can dance and walk freely at the reception without having to worry about holding up your dress or tripping on it. Here are some tips to make sure you're prepared:
Choose a bustle style that suits your dress
The type of bustle you choose will depend on the style, fabric, and shape of your dress, as well as your personal preference. The most common types of bustles include the French bustle, Austrian bustle, and American bustle, each creating a different visual effect. For example, the French bustle tucks the train underneath the dress, resulting in a cascading, layered look, while the Austrian bustle gathers the train fabric in a way that resembles draping or ruching. The American bustle is a simple and popular option, suitable for lightweight dresses, as it involves attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt.
Work with a professional seamstress
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress is a complicated process that requires the expertise of an experienced seamstress. They will be able to recommend the best type of bustle for your dress and seamlessly add the necessary hooks, ties, buttons, or loops. The bridal boutique where you purchased your dress should be able to recommend a skilled seamstress.
Assign a designated "bustler"
Enlist the help of a trusted bridesmaid, family member, or friend to be your designated "bustler." This person should attend your final dress fittings and alterations appointments to learn how to properly bustle your dress and get hands-on practice before the wedding. They can also take notes, photos, or videos of the process to refer back to on the day.
Practise with your bridal party
Schedule a bustle practice session with your bridal party a few weeks before the wedding. This will give your designated "bustlers" a chance to practise with any special tools that may be needed and ensure they feel confident in their role. It will also allow you to identify any potential issues or weak points in the bustling process and make adjustments as needed.
Prepare an emergency kit
Despite your best efforts, there is always a chance that something could come loose or unravel during your wedding day. Be prepared for any last-minute repairs by assembling an emergency kit that includes safety pins, hooks, needles, and thread that matches your dress colour. Keep this kit handy on the day of the wedding so you can quickly fix any issues that may arise.
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Assigning a bridesmaid to help with bustling the dress
Adding a bustle to your wedding dress can be a tricky task, and you will need help from your bridesmaids or family members to bustle the gown on the big day. It is nearly impossible to secure a bustle while wearing a bridal gown, so you must enlist support from a trusted person. This person should attend your final fitting and learn how to alter your dress from your seamstress.
The designated bridesmaid should be prepared to sew any ribbons back into the dress with a clear fishing line if they come loose. If the problem is complicated, the bridesmaid can pin the dress together at the broken bustle point with a large safety pin.
The ballroom bustle is a unique style that is gaining popularity and creates an eye-catching shape. Bridesmaids can easily help get things in place with this style. The French bustle is another option that is not overly complicated and has the train fold under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem.
The designated bridesmaid should be comfortable with bustling the dress and be able to do it quickly. It is recommended that they attend at least one fitting to understand the technique and reduce fumbling time on the wedding day.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a process of "removing" a train from a wedding gown. It is added to the back of the gown to attach the train post-ceremony. This allows the bride to move around and dance freely without worrying about tripping over the dress.
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, Ballroom bustle, Train-Flip bustle, Austrian bustle, and Wrist bustle. Each bustle has a different look, but they all benefit the wearer in the same way.
It is recommended to partner with an experienced seamstress who can advise on the best type of bustle for your dress. The right bustle will depend on the style and silhouette of your dress.
A bustle can cost anywhere between $75 to $400, depending on the type of gown and the complexity of the bustle. Gowns with more train fabric, like a ballgown, will cost more to bustle as they may require multiple attachment points.
While it is possible to add a bustle yourself, it is a complicated and time-consuming process. It is best to leave it to a professional seamstress or tailor who has experience in adding bustles to wedding dresses.
