Franklin Dean
Wedding dresses have changed significantly over time, reflecting the ever-changing fashion world. The classic white wedding dress became popular in the mid-nineteenth century due to Queen Victoria, symbolising purity and social status. However, before this, brides wore various colours and styles, with grey symbolising fertility for teenage girls and older women opting for brown or black. In the 1910s, brides wore floor-length, floaty dresses, and by the 1930s and 1940s, slim-fit dresses with high necklines and long sleeves were in fashion. The 1950s saw the rise of ball gowns with huge skirts, while the 1970s introduced high-neck dresses with puffed sleeves. In the 1980s, strapless dresses dominated, and by the 1990s, brides were asking for sleeves again. Today, wedding dresses continue to evolve, with modern brides choosing dresses that reflect their personality and comfort, and colourful dresses and unconventional styles are becoming more common.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Colour | White became popular in the mid-nineteenth century, although for most of history brides wore other colours |
| Silhouette | The slim waist, lace, and full nineteenth-century skirt layered over crinolines and petticoats was once considered a desirable silhouette. In the 1900s, the silhouette shifted from the S-shape to a more A-line shape. In the 1990s, a more modern, flirty silhouette was introduced by American designer Lazaro. |
| Sleeves | In the 1900s, sleeves were full. In the 1930s and 1940s, long sleeves were still common. In the 1990s, people started asking for sleeves again. |
| Neckline | In the 1900s, high necklines were common. In the 1930s and 1940s, high necklines were still fashionable. |
| Fabric | In the 1900s, bridal dresses were typically made from chiffon over satin, cotton, or silk. |
| Trends | In the 1910s, floaty dresses were popular. In the 1930s, slim silk dresses were popular. In the 1940s, bridal fashion didn't change much from the 1930s, with many brides wearing slim-fit dresses with high necklines and long sleeves. In the 1950s, ball gowns were introduced. In 2000, there was more diversification, with tighter dresses and A-line dresses often with embroidery. |
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What You'll Learn
The influence of Queen Victoria
Queen Victoria's wedding dress has had a profound and lasting impact on bridal fashion, especially in the West. When Queen Victoria married Prince Albert in 1840, she wore a white gown, breaking with the colourful wedding dresses of the past and establishing a new tradition. The dress was made of Spitalfields silk and Honiton lace, with a structured, eight-piece bodice, a wide, open neckline, short puffed sleeves, and a deep v-shaped pointed waistline resembling a basque shape. The lace-trimmed neckline and sleeves, as well as the voluminous skirt, contributed to the romantic and modest aesthetic of the time.
Prior to Queen Victoria's wedding, brides typically wore their best dress, regardless of its colour, and it was common for colourful wedding dresses to be worn and reused for other occasions. White dresses, when worn, were a symbol of wealth, as they were more expensive to clean and keep pristine. However, Queen Victoria's choice of a white wedding dress captured the public imagination, and its popularity was further fuelled by the media coverage of her wedding, including newspaper reports, paintings, and souvenir artwork.
The white wedding dress became synonymous with purity and innocence, as described in Godey's Lady's Book in 1849, which proclaimed that white was "the most fitting hue" for brides. This sentiment, combined with the desire to emulate the romantic bridal style of Queen Victoria, solidified the enduring appeal of white wedding dresses. The colour white also photographed well in the black-and-white photography of the time, ensuring the bride stood out in the images.
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The 1970s: Big sleeves, high necks
Wedding dresses in the 1970s were characterised by a mix of trends. On the one hand, the decade saw a continuation of the previous era's high necklines and long sleeves. On the other hand, the 1970s also witnessed a shift towards more flowy and bohemian styles, with bell sleeves and earthy, relaxed silhouettes. Gowns were often adorned with a touch of lace or floral embroidery.
The 1970s can be seen as a transitional period in bridal fashion, combining traditional and modern elements. While high necks and sleeves remained popular, hemlines became noticeably shorter, reflecting the rise in popularity of miniskirts at the time. This blend of modest and playful elements appealed to brides who wanted to strike a balance between classic elegance and contemporary flair.
The decade's fashion also offered a range of silhouettes to suit different tastes. Some brides opted for sleek and simple designs, such as A-line gowns with round necklines and statement flared sleeves, as seen on singer-songwriter Syreeta Wright when she married Stevie Wonder in 1970. Others embraced the era's bohemian trend, with flowing dresses that exuded a relaxed and effortless charm, as exemplified by Farrah Fawcett's long, flowy gown with dramatic voluminous sleeves in her 1973 wedding to actor Lee Majors.
The 1970s also witnessed a move towards more personalised and individual styles. Brides like Bianca Jagger, who married Mick Jagger in 1971, chose to forego traditional gowns altogether, opting instead for a tailored two-piece skirt suit by Yves Saint Laurent. This customisation and experimentation reflected a growing desire for self-expression in bridal fashion, setting the stage for the diverse and eclectic styles that would emerge in the decades to come.
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The 1980s: Strapless
The 1980s saw a resurgence of the strapless wedding dress, with the trend described as "big". This was the decade of wild hair, puffed sleeves, and oversized skirts. The style was epitomised by Princess Diana's royal wedding dress, with its lace, frills, cathedral train, and collared neckline. The 80s were all about drama and extravagance, a stark contrast to the minimalist styles that would become popular in the 90s.
The strapless dress itself first appeared in the 1930s, popularised by designers such as Mainbocher, who produced the first strapless evening gown in 1934. The style was also associated with actress Libby Holman, who wore a strapless dress in 1930 and was credited with inventing it or, at least, being one of its earliest adopters. The trend continued into the late 1940s, with Christian Dior also adopting the look.
By the 1980s, strapless dresses were made with stretchy, elastic fabrics that didn't require boning or interior structure. This made them more comfortable and secure, as demonstrated by Rita Hayworth, who wore a secure strapless gown in the film "Gilda". The style was also increasingly requested for weddings, with civil weddings becoming more popular in the 1990s, and the strapless dress becoming a valid option for brides.
However, the strapless style has been seen as controversial, particularly for religious weddings. The exposure of the shoulders and chest has been deemed inappropriate by some religious groups, with the style being called a rejection of the virginal ideal. Despite this, the strapless wedding dress remains a popular choice, with 72% of Americans disapproving of strapless tops for office wear but embracing the style for bridal wear.
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The 1990s: Lazaro's silhouette
In the 1990s, American wedding dresses began to shift away from strapless styles that had previously dominated bridal fashion. Brides started to seek out more modern and playful silhouettes, as reflected in the designs of American designer Lazaro. Known for his theatrical, romantic, and glamorous wedding dresses, Lazaro introduced a tight-fitting dress with an asymmetrical ruffle that resembled a "tango dress". This new silhouette proved popular and became a staple in bridal boutiques.
Lazaro's wedding dress designs are characterised by their blend of modern and vintage aesthetics, incorporating intricate embellishments and dramatic silhouettes. The brand, founded by designer Lazaro Pérez in the early 2000s, quickly gained recognition for its bold designs and high-quality craftsmanship. Lazaro's collections often draw inspiration from art, nature, and personal experiences, resulting in unique and whimsical gowns.
Lazaro wedding dresses are known for their luxurious fabrics, romantic details, and glamorous touches. The brand offers a range of styles, from classic ball gowns to fitted mermaid silhouettes, often featuring distinctive elements such as oversized bows and floral appliqués. The use of lace, tulle, and exquisite embroidery further enhances the elegance and uniqueness of Lazaro's creations.
Lazaro's Spring 2021 collection showcased statement-making designs with body-hugging silhouettes, shimmering blush tulles, and dramatic asymmetrical hemlines. The collection included a variety of gowns, such as the "Vienna" and "Adelaide" A-line gowns with sweetheart and V-necklines, respectively, and the "Juno" fit-and-flare gown with a lace-appliquéd bodice and layered tulle skirt.
The Lazaro silhouette of the 1990s reflected a desire for something different in bridal fashion, moving away from the traditional strapless styles. Lazaro's innovative designs continue to influence and shape bridal fashion, offering brides unique and memorable wedding dress options that showcase their individual personalities and styles.
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2000s: Diversification
By the turn of the millennium, American wedding dresses had diversified. Brides in the 2000s had a wide range of styles to choose from, including long flowing gowns, tighter dresses, and A-line dresses, often with embroidery.
The early 2000s saw a trend for strapless dresses, which showed off the collarbone and shoulders, while retaining a traditional mood with full skirts and long trains. However, some brides opted for more unusual styles, such as tight dresses or short frocks. Mermaid styles were also popular in this period.
The 2000s also saw a shift towards more simplistic and understated wedding dress styles, perhaps influenced by the previous decade's trend for minimalistic and casual bridal fashion. Simplicity was reflected in the sleek and chic gowns of the time, which often featured a straight neckline for an ultra-modern look.
The 2000s witnessed a resurgence of unique and creative styles, with celebrity brides leading the way. Gwen Stefani wore a hand-painted, pink and white ombre gown in 2002, while Katie Holmes wore an off-the-shoulder silk and lace dress in 2006. Jennifer Lopez's 2001 wedding dress was made from Chantilly lace with sheer, pearl-embellished sleeves, and a sleek updo. These dresses showcase the diversification of styles and the desire to showcase individual personalities.
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Frequently asked questions
The trend of wearing white wedding dresses was kickstarted by Queen Victoria in 1840. The colour was considered flattering on all skin tones and worked well in the black and white photography of the time.
In the 1910s, brides wore floor-length, flowy dresses that allowed them to move and dance easily. In the 1930s and 1940s, slim-fit dresses with high necklines and long sleeves were popular. The 1950s saw the rise of ball gowns with huge skirts. The 1970s introduced high-neck dresses with puffed sleeves, and by the 1980s, strapless dresses were all the rage.
In the 1990s, there was a shift back towards sleeves, and modern, flirty silhouettes were introduced. By the year 2000, there was more diversification, with long flowing gowns and tighter dresses co-existing in popularity.
Modern American brides often choose dresses that reflect their personality, style, and comfort. Colourful dresses and unconventional styles are becoming more common. Brides are also experimenting with multiple looks throughout their wedding day.
In Chinese folklore, a princess wore a phoenix dress and crown, which were considered symbols of good luck and strength in marriage. Today, Chinese brides often wear striking red gowns with a phoenix tail. In Korea and Japan, silk wedding robes were used in various styles and bright colours, fit for royalty.
