Crafting A Wedding Gown: An Intricate, Challenging Affair

Making a wedding gown is a challenging project that requires patience, time, and sewing experience. It involves several steps, from choosing the gown style and measurements to sewing the bodice and making adjustments. While it can be difficult to design and sew a dress from scratch, it is not impossible, especially with the right tools and guidance. Creating a custom wedding dress typically takes 9-12 months, allowing for adjustments and refinements to ensure the gown matches the bride's vision and achieves a perfect fit. The process includes choosing the fabric, creating a pattern, cutting and sewing the pieces together, and making any necessary adjustments. It is important to consider the theme of the wedding, the bride's personal style, and the venue when designing the gown. Additionally, dress fittings and mock-ups are essential to ensure the gown looks and fits perfectly on the bride's big day.

Choosing the style

First, consider the theme of your wedding. If you're having a beach wedding, you'll want a soft, light, and flowy dress. If you're getting married in a grand cathedral, think about the season and how much you want to stand out.

Next, decide on the silhouette of your dress. Popular options include ball gowns, A-line, mermaid/fishtail, fit and flare, and column/sheath styles. The silhouette you choose will depend on your body type and the level of comfort you desire. For example, ball gowns and A-line silhouettes are flattering for pear-shaped bodies, while mermaid styles are a good choice for those with an hourglass figure.

The neckline of your dress is another important feature. Sweetheart necklines are perfect for brides who want to emphasise their décolletage, while halter necks showcase toned arms and shoulders. A v-neck gown is a great option for shorter brides who want to elongate their shape.

Finally, decide whether you want sleeves or not. Long sleeves can elongate your arms, while off-the-shoulder sleeves provide coverage for the upper arms but still show off your shoulders.

Remember, it's essential to try on different styles and silhouettes to see what looks best on you before making your final decision.

Measurements and fittings

Dress fittings are an essential part of the process of making your own wedding gown. This is because they allow you to try on different styles and see what looks best on you. It is also a chance to see if any modifications need to be made to your design, or if a different design might be better.

It is important to get your measurements right. This will ensure that your dress fits properly and looks good. When measuring yourself, make sure you are only wearing your underwear. It is also a good idea to have someone help you. Stand straight, with your heels together, and keep your arms down. The measuring tape should be comfortable and not too tight. Double-check your measurements to make sure they are accurate.

If you are planning to wear a fitted dress, you will need to take measurements of your bust, waist and hips. For an A-line or ball gown, the most important measurements are your bust and waist. You will also need to know how to take your hollow-to-hem measurement. This is the length from the centre of your collarbone to the bottom of your dress. It is important to wear the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day when taking this measurement, as this will affect the length.

When measuring your bust, pass the measuring tape around your back and up to the front at the fullest part of your chest. Keep the tape level and make sure it is not too tight—you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your body.

To measure your waist, pass the measuring tape around your waist at the narrowest part of your torso. Again, don't make it too tight, and remember to leave enough room to fit a finger between the tape and your body.

For your hips, stand straight and pull the tape across the widest part. As with the bust and waist, leave enough room to fit a finger between the tape and your body.

Once you have your measurements, you can start to create a mock-up of your dress. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments before you start working with your chosen fabric.

Getting the perfect draping

Draping is an important part of making the perfect wedding dress. To get the perfect draping, it is recommended to create a custom dress form of yourself. This will allow you to see exactly how the dress will look and enable you to make any necessary adjustments.

The first step is to get acquainted with the different types of fabric available to you. Visit a fabric store and get to know chiffon, satin, silk, lace, organza, dupioni, and more. Don't be afraid to experiment and show your unique style through your choice of fabric.

When it comes to choosing the right fabric for your wedding dress, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the weight and texture of the fabric are important. You want something that holds its structure without needing extra pinups and stitching. Chiffon is a good option as it is lightweight and gives an exotic shine when light falls on it. Tulle is another option, often used for bridal veils as it gives a graceful movement. Organza is also a popular choice for draping as it is lightweight, has an attractive sheen, and adds volume to the dress.

Another thing to consider is the colour of the fabric. The colour should match the theme of your wedding. For traditional weddings, all-white fabric is the most common choice, but you can also opt for neutral colours like ivory or blush, metallic colours like gold or silver, bold colours like red or green, or multicoloured fabric for a modern look.

Lastly, remember that draping is a long process that requires patience and hard work. It is important to have a sketch of the wedding dress to make this process easier. For the mock-up, use cheap fabric that you can make alterations to, and then move on to the final fabric once you are happy with the mock-up.

Creating a mock-up

To create a mock-up, you will need some cheap fabric to work with, along with chalk for marking alterations, thread, scissors, a zipper, and safety pins. It is a crucial step as it gives you the opportunity to make mistakes and adjustments without ruining your chosen fabric, which may be expensive.

First, double the panels of your pattern (mirroring them) and sew them together. You will need to close the back of the mock-up, so you can sew in a zipper or use ribbon and snap fasteners to close this area. Once the bodice mock-up is finished, try it on and note any alterations that need to be made. Make adjustments to the seams, taking them in or letting them out as necessary, and mark these changes on the mock-up.

Next, create a skirt for the mock-up. You can make a simple circle skirt, which is slightly longer at the back to create a small train. This skirt does not need to be hemmed, as it is just a mock-up. Attach the skirt to the bodice, ensuring that the back is longer than the front to create a small train.

Once you are happy with the fit of the mock-up, take it apart using a seam ripper. Cut off the seam allowance from the panels, then place the panels on pattern paper and trace the edges. Use a set of French curves to draw clean edges, turning and shifting the curves to fit the panel edge. Extend the edge by 1.5 cm using a seam gauge or small ruler, then cut out two versions of the pattern: one with the seam allowance and one without. The version with the seam allowance will be used as a guide when cutting your chosen fabric, and the version without will be used to mark the seam lines on the fabric panels.

Sewing the bodice

Prepare the necessary materials and tools:

You will need the following:

• Lining/cotton/satin fabric for the bodice layers
• Interfacing (iron-on) to reinforce the fabric
• Rotary cutter for fabric and a cutting mat
• Weights or tea cups to secure the pattern to the fabric
• Overlock presser foot and a regular presser foot for your sewing machine

Cut out the bodice pattern pieces:

Using a rotary cutter, carefully cut out the bodice pattern pieces from the fabric, making sure they are placed on grain. Cut out three of each pattern piece (one for each layer of the bodice: lining, structure, and satin). Trace the pattern with a pen, allowing for a seam allowance, and cut out the pieces.

Baste the layers together:

Baste the layers of fabric together approximately 1/8" inside the sewing dotted lines. Use a small needle and silk basting thread for this step to avoid leaving visible holes in the fabric. This will keep the layers attached and prevent shifting.

Pin and baste the pieces together:

Pin the pieces right sides together, and then baste again 1/16" between the seam line and the first basting line. This will help hold the pieces in place and prevent them from shifting during sewing.

Press the seams and check the fit:

Press the seams flat and try on the bodice to ensure a proper fit before permanently sewing the seams. Make any necessary adjustments.

Sew the seams:

Machine stitch the bodice pieces together, removing the basting stitches as you go. Press and steam the seams flat to create a neat finish.

Attach the bodice to the corselet:

Attach the bodice to the corselet along the top neck edge and the zipper. You may also need to add straps, such as tubes of satin with twill tape strung through.

Frequently asked questions