Deborah Chan
Hemming a wedding dress is a crucial step in the alterations process to ensure the gown fits the bride's height and body shape. The length of the hem will depend on the bride's height, shoe choice, and desired amount of train. Most wedding dresses are too long and need to be hemmed to avoid tripping or dragging on the floor. Brides should bring their wedding shoes to the fitting so the seamstress can hem the dress to the perfect length, allowing for comfortable walking and dancing. The cost of hemming varies depending on the fabric and extent of alterations, so budgeting for tailoring is essential.
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What You'll Learn
The height of the wearer
For taller brides, the dress may already be the perfect height, but alterations may still be necessary based on the type of shoe they plan to wear. Very tall brides may need to order extra length on their dress to ensure it is the proper length. When ordering a wedding dress, it is recommended to go by the bridal designer's size chart and plan for alterations to tailor the dress to the wearer's height perfectly.
It is important to bring the shoes you plan to wear to your wedding dress fittings. This is because even a small difference in heel height can impact how the dress falls, affecting both comfort and appearance. If you plan to switch between heels and flats throughout your wedding day, you may want to consider purchasing two pairs of shoes with a similar heel height to eliminate the need for adjusting the dress length between events. Alternatively, you can hem the dress for flats to ensure comfort later in the day.
The ideal length for a wedding dress depends on the wearer's height and personal preference. A standard floor-length hem just grazes the floor, allowing ease of movement while maintaining a formal look. For outdoor weddings, a slightly higher hem can prevent the dress from getting too dirty or picking up debris from the ground. Brides who are on the shorter side may want to have their dress as close as possible to floor-length without touching the floor to create the illusion of added height.
Ultimately, the most important factor in determining the ideal hem length is ensuring the bride can move comfortably and effortlessly without the dress dragging too much or appearing too short.
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The type of shoe
It is essential to bring the shoes you plan to wear to your fittings. This will ensure the dress length supports mobility and comfort throughout the day. Your seamstress will need to know the exact heel height to hem the dress accurately. If you are wearing statement shoes, you may want to hem your dress by 6 cm or more to show them off.
If you are wearing a dress with a long train, bustling is vital. A bustle lifts the train off the ground, making it easier for you to move without tripping or dragging your gown. If you are wearing a floor-length gown outdoors, you should consider hemming it at least 2 inches from the floor with your shoes on to avoid dragging it on the grass.
If you order your wedding dress with a custom length based on a certain pair of heels or heel height, you could end up with a dress that is too short if you change your mind about your shoes. If you go from a taller heel to a shorter heel, you will just need to hem the dress to the correct length. However, if you decide to wear a taller heel than the pair you ordered your dress based on, your dress may be too short.
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The length of the train
One of the shortest wedding train lengths is the brush train, also known as the sweep train, which barely grazes the floor. Extending a few inches or less than a foot from the bottom hem, this train is a practical choice for brides who want to move freely on their wedding day, especially for outdoor venues like beach weddings. The court train is the second shortest option, extending about a foot out from the bottom of the gown. It offers a subtle train look without the hassle of a longer train.
If you desire a more formal and classic bridal style, the chapel train is a popular choice, extending 3 to 4 feet behind you. For a slightly more formal look, the semi-cathedral train provides a dramatic effect without the bulk, reaching 4 to 5 feet in length. The cathedral train, or the traditional monarch train, is the epitome of grandeur, extending 6 to 8 feet or even 10 feet or more for a truly regal feel. Princess Diana's wedding dress featured a 25-foot-long monarch train, a true fairytale vision.
When deciding on the length of your train, consider your venue, formality, and personal style. Additionally, keep in mind the functionality of the train during your wedding day activities and opt for a bustle if you want to keep your train off the ground during the reception for easier movement.
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The fabric of the dress
The fabric of the wedding dress plays a significant role in determining the hem length and the alterations process.
Firstly, the type of fabric used in the wedding dress will influence the overall design and style of the gown. For instance, lightweight and delicate fabrics like chiffon, tulle, organza, and lace are often used in flowing, multi-layered dresses, which may require a slightly higher hem to prevent tripping and ease movement. These fabrics may also require special handling during alterations, making the process more complex and costly. Smooth silk is another fabric that can be more challenging to alter. On the other hand, lace can be easier to work with as alterations may be better hidden within the pattern.
Secondly, the fabric and design of the dress will determine whether it can be hemmed at all and how much fabric can be removed or adjusted. For example, a dress with a well-defined waistline and gathered skirt is a good candidate for hemming by lifting the skirt and resewing it at the new length. This method also works well if there is lace or embellishment at the waist seam to camouflage the alteration. In contrast, gowns with complicated decorations at the hem may be hemmed from the waist to preserve the design.
Additionally, the fabric's drape and fall characteristics should be considered when deciding on the hem length. The bride's height, shoe choice, and desired train length will impact how the fabric hangs. For instance, a bride may need to add length to a second-hand dress to account for their taller stature, which may involve letting out fabric from the waist if it was previously altered.
Fabric choice is also important when considering the venue and terrain of the wedding. For outdoor weddings on grass, sand, or uneven surfaces, a slightly shorter hem may be preferable to prevent snags and stains. A delicate fabric like tulle is particularly susceptible to dirt and damage, so extra care may be needed when walking outdoors.
In summary, the fabric of the wedding dress is a critical factor in determining the hem length and alterations process. It influences the design possibilities, the ease of alterations, the desired fall of the fabric, and the practicality of the dress for the wedding venue and activities.
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The complexity of alterations
Hemming a wedding dress is a complex process that requires careful consideration of various factors. The length of the dress is crucial, as it should be adjusted to the bride's height and the type of shoe she plans to wear. For brides of average height or shorter, hemming is often necessary to prevent tripping on the extra fabric. Even tall brides usually require some hemming to achieve the perfect length.
The type of fabric used in the wedding dress also influences the complexity of alterations. For example, chiffon linings are typically shorter than the outer chiffon layer, and achieving an even hem can be challenging. Tulle is another fabric that demands a professional touch, as it is finicky to sew and easy to mess up. Additionally, the number of layers in a traditional wedding dress increases the difficulty of hemming and can impact the overall cost.
Budgeting for alterations is an important aspect of wedding planning. The cost of tailoring can vary significantly, ranging from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. It is recommended to consult with the bridal salon owner or an in-house seamster to obtain an estimated cost for the required alterations. This is especially crucial if the dress has intricate details or is made of expensive fabric, as these factors can drive up the price.
In conclusion, hemming a wedding dress is a complex process that demands professional expertise. The unique body type of each bride, along with their preferred shoe choice, influences the necessary alterations. The design and fabric of the dress also play a significant role in the complexity and cost of alterations. To ensure a perfect fit and avoid costly mistakes, it is essential to seek the skills of an experienced seamstress or tailor.
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Frequently asked questions
Your wedding dress should be hemmed so that it gently grazes the floor. This will ensure that you can walk, dance and move around comfortably without tripping on extra fabric.
Bring the shoes you plan to wear on the day to your fitting so that your seamstress can hem your dress accordingly. If you change your mind about your shoes after the alterations, you may need to have your dress re-hemmed.
The cost of hemming a wedding dress can vary from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. The price will depend on the type of fabric and the complexity of the alterations.
If you feel like you have to kick the dress out of the way when you walk, it's too long. Ideally, you should be able to walk relatively naturally without having to hold up the front of the dress.
