Deborah Chan
A wedding dress bustle is when the train of the dress is buttoned up to floor length, allowing the bride to move about freely and show off the beautiful detail of the train and the back of the dress. The bustling of the dress train is typically done by the maid of honour, the bridal party, or the wedding coordinator before the couple's first dance. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle or 'over bustle', which uses hooks or buttons at the waistline or the start of the skirt flare, and the French bustle, which has buttons sewn underneath on the inside of the dress skirt to form pick-ups or tiers. The choice of bustle depends on the silhouette of the dress, the fabric, the length of the train, and personal style preferences.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To button up the train of a wedding dress to floor length so the wearer can move about freely and dance without the train getting stuck, caught, or stepped on |
| Who does it | The maid of honor, the bridal party, or the wedding coordinator |
| When is it done | Before the first dance |
| Types of bustles | American or 'over' bustle, French bustle |
| American/over bustle | Uses hooks or buttons at the waistline or start of the skirt flare; virtually invisible on an A-line or ball gown dress with a full skirt |
| French bustle | Buttons are sewn underneath on the inside of the dress skirt, forming "pick ups" or tiers; suitable for plain satin, silk, crepe skirts |
| Number of hooks/buttons | Depends on the length of the train and fullness of the skirt |
| Fasteners | Buttons, hooks/eyes, ribbons, or a combination |
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What You'll Learn
The American bustle or 'over bustle'
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is a popular way to pick up the train of a wedding dress. This bustle style has the fabric folds flowing over the rest of the skirt, instead of under, creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds drape over the skirt. Brides can decide if they want one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for added drama and flair.
The American bustle is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. This is typically done with hooks or loops that are added along the waistline. When the train is fastened across multiple points, it creates elegant pleats at the waist. This bustle style can have one, three, or even five pickup points for a dramatic look.
The American bustle is a simple style for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It is a versatile option that can be used with most dress silhouettes and is not exclusive to sweeping gowns. It is a good choice for brides who want to transform the silhouette of their dress, making the train disappear, and creating a shorter hemline.
This bustle style is perfect for brides who want to be able to move around and dance comfortably during their reception without tripping over their train. It is a good option for mermaid-style wedding dresses as it adds drama and flair to the back of the gown, complementing the style of the dress.
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The French bustle
To create a French bustle, ribbons or hooks are used to connect and secure the fabric. This bustle technique can have numerous pick-up points for extra flair. The French bustle is particularly well-suited for dresses with voluminous skirts or dramatic silhouettes, as it seamlessly blends into the gown's design. It is also a good choice for brides who want the grandeur of a lengthy train during the ceremony but prefer the illusion of a train-less gown for the reception.
The process of bustling a wedding dress refers to altering the gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress, allowing the bride to walk freely and preventing the fabric from dragging on the floor. Brides typically bustle their dresses after the ceremony and before the reception, although some may choose to leave the train flowing for the first dance.
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The Waterfall bustle
To create the waterfall effect, the bustle is carefully constructed with a series of straps. These straps are of varying lengths, with one being long enough to wrap around and tie, ensuring a secure fit. This unique strap design is a defining feature of the waterfall bustle, setting it apart from other bustle styles.
For those seeking a dramatic and romantic look for their wedding dress, the waterfall bustle is an excellent choice. It adds interest and movement to the train of the dress, creating a stunning visual effect as the bride walks down the aisle. This bustle style is a wonderful way to showcase the intricate details of the dress, highlighting the beauty of the fabric and design.
Overall, the waterfall bustle is a beautiful and practical choice for a wedding dress, especially for those attracted to the mermaid or fishtail silhouette. With its effortless elegance and flattering shape, it is a style that will make any bride feel confident and radiant on their special day.
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Using hooks, buttons, ribbons, or eyes
The American bustle or 'over bustle' is the most common type of bustle for a wedding dress. This bustle uses hooks, buttons, ribbons, or eyes, either at the waistline of the dress or at the start of the skirt flare on a fitted dress. The number of hooks, buttons, or eyes will depend on the length of your train and the fullness of the skirt. If you only have a short train and a slim skirt, you may only need one fastening, but you may need many bustle points to keep a long train and full skirt off the floor.
The hooks, buttons, or eyes are usually on the outside of the gown and are virtually invisible on an A-line or ball gown dress with a full skirt and intricate details. However, if you have a sleek, plain gown, you may wish to avoid this option, as the hooks will be visible on the outside of the skirt.
The French bustle is another option and has buttons sewn underneath on the inside of the dress skirt. This option is best for plain skirts, so the buttons are not visible on the outside of the dress. When connected, they form "pick-ups" or tiers to the skirt, adding volume to the gown silhouette. This bustle can be used with multiple or single-point buttoning.
If you want to avoid hooks, buttons, or eyes altogether, you could consider a wrist loop to carry the train. This is a band that goes around your wrist to hold the train up as you move. This works best with simple trains and can also be used with heavier fabrics or fuller skirts that are too thick to be held up by buttons or hooks.
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When to bustle: before the first dance
If you're planning on dancing in your wedding dress, bustling it beforehand is a good idea. Dancing in a wedding dress with a train can be uncomfortable and difficult, and you run the risk of damaging the dress. Bustling your dress will prevent you from tripping on the train or getting your heels caught. It will also help you avoid damaging the bottom of your dress, keeping it stain-free and tear-free.
The time between the wedding ceremony and reception can be busy, so finding a moment to bustle your dress can be tricky. If you're having a cocktail hour, you can use this time to bustle your dress before your grand entrance. Alternatively, you can designate a time and place to bustle the dress, such as right after the ceremony or before you make your debut as newlyweds.
It's a good idea to have someone help you with bustling your dress, such as your maid of honour, mother, or a bridesmaid. They can accompany you to your final wedding dress fitting to learn how to bustle the dress, or you can have someone take a video of the process to show them later. Practising bustling the dress before the wedding will ensure that it's quick and easy on the day.
While some people dislike the look of bustles, functionality may take priority during your first dance. You can always unbustle the dress after the dance for photographs if you prefer the look of the unbustled train.
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Frequently asked questions
A wedding dress bustle is when the train of your dress is buttoned up to floor length so that you can dance and move about freely. It also showcases the beautiful detail of the train and the back of the dress.
The bustling of the dress train is usually done by the maid of honour, the bridal party, or the wedding coordinator before the couple's first dance.
The American bustle, or "over bustle", is a popular choice as it keeps the shape of the skirt and adds a dramatic effect. The French bustle, on the other hand, has buttons sewn underneath on the inside of the dress skirt, creating "pick-ups" or tiers.
During your final dress fitting, ask your seamstress to demonstrate how to attach the hooks or buttons. Consider taking a video for reference. It's also a good idea to have an emergency kit with large safety pins in case you need extra bustle support.
