The Craft Of Wedding Rings: From Ore To Ornament

Wedding rings are made using a variety of methods, including casting and hand-making techniques. The traditional hand-making technique involves cutting a piece of metal to size and shaping it into a circle, while casting involves creating a detailed mould based on the shape and design of the ring setting. The type of metal used, such as gold, platinum, or palladium, will also impact the ring-making process, as some metals are softer and easier to shape than others. Ultimately, the specific process used to create a wedding ring will depend on the desired style, design, and type of metal chosen.

Casting vs. Handmade Techniques

Casting and handmade techniques are two of the most common production methods used to create wedding rings. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

Casting

Casting is a common process used by jewellers that involves pouring molten metal into a mould. The process begins with the creation of a detailed mould based on the shape and design of the ring setting. This can be done by hand or through 3D printing. The mould is then covered in plaster and heated, causing the wax to melt and leaving space for the molten metal to be poured in. Once the metal has cooled, the plaster is removed, and the piece is polished and set with any gemstones.

Casting is a cost-effective process, as the same mould can be used repeatedly to create identical rings. It is also possible to use multiple moulds at once, making it an efficient method for producing large volumes of jewellery. In addition, the use of 3D CAD models and waxes can help visualise the final product.

However, casting has some drawbacks. There is a risk of porosity (small air pockets within the metal) that can make the ring weaker and more prone to breaking. Cast metal is also less dense than handmade jewellery, making it more susceptible to scratches and bends. Creating delicate designs with finer details can be challenging due to the limited durability of the metal.

Handmade

Hand fabrication is a traditional form of creating jewellery where pieces of cold-rolled metal wire (such as platinum or gold) are shaped into the desired design. This process involves a series of cutting, hammering, annealing, and polishing steps to carefully form the final piece.

Handmade jewellery is less common and requires a high level of craftsmanship. It is more expensive than casting due to the increased production costs and time involved. The human element in crafting the jewellery can also result in slight variations in the ring design.

However, handmade jewellery has several advantages. It is almost 50% harder than cast jewellery, resulting in a more durable product that is more resistant to scratches and bending. The use of less metal allows for sleek and delicate designs, and the setting can be sculpted around the exact dimensions of the gemstones, ensuring a perfect fit. Mixing different types of metals in a single piece is also easier with handmade jewellery.

In summary, both casting and handmade techniques have their strengths and weaknesses. Casting is more cost-effective and efficient for producing identical rings, while handmade jewellery offers a more unique, durable, and delicate product. Ultimately, the choice between the two methods depends on the specific requirements and preferences of the consumer.

The Metal

The first step in making a wedding ring is selecting the metal. The most common choices are gold, platinum, silver, palladium, titanium, zirconium, tungsten, and steel.

Gold, silver, and platinum are typically used in their pure forms, but they can also be alloyed with other metals to improve their properties. For example, sterling silver is an alloy that contains a minimum of 92.5% silver, with the remaining percentage usually consisting of copper. This alloy is necessary because pure silver is quite malleable and could bend out of shape over time. Adding copper increases the hardness of the silver and makes it less malleable.

Platinum and palladium rings are on the more expensive end of the spectrum and are typically alloyed with other metals such as ruthenium, iridium, or rhodium to improve their properties. These rings often have a purity of 95%.

Gold is also available in different colours depending on the metals it is alloyed with. Yellow gold maintains the characteristic hue of pure gold and is alloyed with silver and small amounts of copper to make it more resilient. Rose gold is alloyed with copper and silver, with slightly higher amounts of copper giving it a coppery hue. White gold, on the other hand, is often alloyed with palladium or platinum, resulting in a silvery appearance. It is also commonly plated with rhodium to add hardness and a shiny lustre.

The purity of gold rings is measured in carats. 24-carat gold is 100% gold, which is too soft for jewellery, so it is not used in rings. 18-carat gold is more common, containing 75% gold, while 14-carat gold (58.5% gold) is cheaper due to its lower gold content.

Titanium, zirconium, tungsten, and steel are newer, more affordable options for wedding rings that are also highly durable. Titanium rings are often made from aircraft-grade titanium alloy, which contains small amounts of vanadium and aluminium. These rings have a low density, making them particularly light for their size.

Tungsten rings, on the other hand, are made from tungsten carbide, one of the hardest known materials. This makes tungsten rings extremely scratch-resistant, but also prone to shattering. Tungsten carbide rings also contain a small amount of cobalt to improve their malleability.

Black zirconium rings are created by oxidising zirconium metal to produce a black coating of zirconium oxide, which is then polished to create a smooth, black surface. Normal zirconium rings without the oxide coating are also available.

Lastly, stainless steel rings are made from steel, an alloy of iron and carbon, with a minimum chromium content of 10.5%.

The Shape

The traditional handmade technique involves cutting a piece of precious metal, such as gold or platinum, to the appropriate size, and then shaping it into a circle. This can be done by hand, using a bending machine, or with a pseudo male/female type machine. The band is then closed up to create a complete circle, soldering the point where the ends meet using a filler of the same material.

Another method is called casting, which allows for the creation of more complex designs. This involves making a detailed mould based on the shape and design of the ring setting. Molten metal is then poured into the mould, which is then plunged into cold water to cool it instantly.

A third method is to use a combination of computer-aided design (CAD) and handmade techniques. A jeweller will create a CAD or 3D model of the ring they are designing, and then turn this into a wax casting. Plaster is poured into the wax casting, which is then baked at high temperatures to remove the wax, leaving a ring-shaped cavity. Molten metal is then poured into the cavity to create the ring.

Soldering

To solder wedding rings, a jeweller will use a filler made from the same material as the rings. This filler metal is melted to join the two rings together. Before soldering, flux paste is applied to the joint to prevent oxidisation and discolouration under the high temperatures required for soldering. After soldering, the ring is dipped in a weak acidic solution to gently remove any excess flux. The ring is then polished, resulting in a comfortable, effortless fit for the wearer.

While soldering has its benefits, there are also some drawbacks to consider. Soldering makes it difficult to wear the rings separately, limiting the wearer's options for accessorising or mixing and matching their jewellery. Additionally, if something happens to one ring, the other will also be affected as they are now fused together. Separating soldered rings can be challenging and may even damage the rings. Therefore, it is essential to carefully consider the pros and cons of soldering before making a decision.

Overall, soldering is a popular choice for those who want to physically unite their wedding and engagement rings, creating a comfortable and secure bridal set. However, it is important to weigh the potential advantages and disadvantages before making any alterations to your jewellery.

Polishing and Finishing

The final step in the wedding ring-making process is polishing and finishing. This stage involves cleaning the ring and applying a final polish to give the ring a nice lustre. If the ring is made of white gold, it may be dipped into an electroplating solution to give it a coat of rhodium and a nice metallic sheen.

For handmade rings, the jeweller will use an assortment of files and/or sandpaper to remove excess solder and tool marks. They will then add the final finish or polish to the custom-made wedding band.

If you are polishing your ring at home, you can fill a bowl with warm water and add a few drops of basic dishwashing soap. Avoid harsh cleaning liquids as these can damage your ring. Soak your ring for 20-30 minutes, then gently brush it with a soft toothbrush to remove any residue. Rinse the ring with warm water, then pat it dry with a soft cloth and leave it to air dry.

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