Crafting Wedding Bands: The Process

Wedding bands are made from a variety of metals, including gold, platinum, palladium, silver, titanium, zirconium, tungsten, and steel. Pure gold, silver, and platinum are too malleable to be used alone, so they are alloyed with other metals to improve their properties. For example, gold is combined with silver and copper to create a more resilient metal, with the amount of copper determining whether the alloy is yellow gold or rose gold. White gold is made from gold and palladium or platinum and is often plated with rhodium. Similarly, sterling silver is an alloy that contains at least 92.5% silver, with the remaining percentage usually consisting of copper. Platinum and palladium rings typically have a purity of 95%, with the remaining percentage consisting of ruthenium, iridium, or rhodium. Titanium rings are commonly made from aircraft-grade titanium, an alloy that contains small amounts of vanadium and aluminium, while black zirconium rings are created by oxidizing zirconium metal to produce a black coating of zirconium oxide. Tungsten rings, known for their durability and scratch resistance, are made from tungsten carbide, a compound of tungsten and carbon, with a small amount of cobalt added to improve malleability.

Metals used: gold, platinum, palladium, titanium, zirconium, tungsten, steel

Gold is the most common and classic choice for wedding bands, with yellow, white, and rose gold being the most popular types. However, pure gold is too malleable to be used for jewellery, so it is mixed with other metals to create an alloy. For example, yellow gold is made using a combination of pure gold, copper, and zinc. White gold is created from a combination of pure gold and metals such as nickel, silver, and palladium. Rose gold contains a higher amount of copper, giving it a coppery hue.

Platinum is another popular choice for wedding bands. It is a durable metal that is known for symbolising pure, everlasting love. Platinum is also hypoallergenic, and it ages nicely, developing a patina over time. However, it is one of the priciest choices for a wedding band.

Palladium is a naturally white metal that is very similar to platinum in terms of appearance and strength but is more affordable and less dense. It is also lightweight and comfortable to wear. However, it shows scratches and can be difficult to resize.

Titanium is a strong, lightweight, and scratch-resistant metal that is becoming increasingly popular for men's wedding bands. It is also easy to maintain and requires no extra care. However, titanium wedding rings cannot be easily resized.

Zirconium is another metal used for wedding bands. Black zirconium rings are created by oxidising zirconium metal to produce a black coating of zirconium oxide, which is then polished to produce a smooth, black surface. Normal zirconium rings are also available.

Tungsten is a dense, hard metal that is scratch-resistant and long-lasting. It is available in white, grey, and black, making it ideal for those who want to avoid traditional gold or silver colours. However, it is brittle and breakable, and it cannot be resized.

Steel, specifically stainless steel, is a strong, durable, and affordable option for wedding bands. It can be polished to maintain its appearance, but some jewellers may not have the correct equipment to resize stainless steel rings.

Pros and cons of tungsten

Tungsten is a popular choice for wedding bands due to its affordability, durability, and hypoallergenic properties. However, there are several factors to consider before purchasing a tungsten wedding band. Here are some pros and cons to help you decide if tungsten is the right choice for you:

Pros of Tungsten Wedding Bands:

Durability and Strength:

Tungsten is an incredibly hard and durable metal, making it highly scratch-resistant. Its hardness also ensures that it won't bend out of shape easily, making it ideal for everyday wear and active lifestyles. The shine of tungsten also won't fade over the years, ensuring that the ring maintains its luster long after the wedding.

Hypoallergenic Properties:

Tungsten is hypoallergenic, meaning it won't trigger an allergic reaction in individuals with sensitive skin. This makes it a safe choice for those who may be allergic to other metals commonly used in jewelry, such as gold or nickel.

Affordability:

Compared to precious metals such as gold, silver, and platinum, tungsten is a much more affordable option. This makes it an attractive choice for those who want a stylish and durable wedding band without breaking the bank.

Versatility and Style:

Tungsten wedding bands offer a wide range of styles, from smooth and polished traditional designs to modern and rugged looks. The metal is available in various colors, including white, grey, black, yellow, rose, and even blue and red inlay, allowing individuals to choose a ring that reflects their unique personality.

Low Maintenance:

Due to its scratch-resistant properties, tungsten requires minimal maintenance. It can be easily maintained by polishing it with a soft cloth and a mixture of warm water and detergent-free soap.

Cons of Tungsten Wedding Bands:

Brittleness and Breakability:

Despite its hardness, tungsten is a brittle metal and can break or shatter if dropped or accidentally smashed against a hard surface. Any man who works with his hands or is active in sports should consider this carefully as the broken ring cannot be repaired by a jeweler.

Cannot Be Resized:

Due to its hardness, tungsten wedding bands cannot be resized. If your finger size changes over time, you will need to purchase a new ring, which may not be a perfect fit.

Heavy Weight:

Tungsten is a dense metal and has a substantial weight to it. While some individuals prefer solid and heavy jewelry, others may find that the weight of tungsten is uncomfortable or too heavy on their finger.

Limited Customization:

The hardness of tungsten makes it difficult to engrave or customize. If you wish to personalize your wedding band with inscriptions or designs, other metals such as gold may be more suitable.

Color Coating Scratches:

While tungsten itself is scratch-proof, color coatings are not. The natural grey tungsten is scratch-proof, but colored tungsten, which is ion-plated with other metals, is more susceptible to scratches and wear over time.

In conclusion, tungsten wedding bands offer a stylish, durable, and affordable alternative to traditional metal choices. However, it is essential to consider the potential drawbacks, such as breakability and the inability to resize, before making a decision. Ultimately, the choice of metal for your wedding band depends on personal preference, lifestyle, and budget.

Gold purity: carats and percentages

Gold is measured in carats, which indicates the purity of the gold. Pure gold is 24 carats, and this is too soft for use in jewellery. Instead, gold is mixed with other metals to increase its strength and flexibility. The higher the carat rating, the higher the gold content. 18-carat gold is 75% gold, and 14-carat gold is 58.5% gold. 18-carat gold is the most common, but 14-carat is the most popular in the US.

Gold can also be measured in fineness, which represents the purity in parts per thousand. The standard fineness for 14-carat gold is .585, and for 24-carat gold, it is .999. Accepted tolerances on purity vary from market to market. For example, in China, Chuk Kam, which is the majority of sales, is defined as a minimum of 99% gold.

The different colours of gold are achieved through the process of alloying, or mixing pure gold with other metals. White gold is created by alloying gold with white metals such as palladium or silver, and it is usually plated with rhodium to add brightness and hardness. Rose gold is made by adding copper to gold, resulting in a soft pink colour. More unusual colours such as blue and purple are obtained by adding patinas or oxides to the alloy surface. Black gold, for example, is coloured by adding cobalt oxide.

Metals' properties: density, colour, malleability, hypoallergenic

When choosing a wedding band, it is important to consider the properties of different metals, such as their density, colour, malleability, and hypoallergenic qualities.

Density refers to the weight of the metal, with some metals feeling weightier or heavier on the finger. For example, platinum has a higher density than other metals, while titanium has a lower density, making it lighter for its size.

The colour of the metal is also an important consideration. White metals, such as silver, platinum, and palladium, are popular choices for wedding bands. Silver is the most common and affordable option among these three metals. Gold metals, such as yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold, offer a range of colours, with yellow gold maintaining the characteristic hue of gold and rose gold having a coppery hue due to higher copper content.

Malleability refers to the softness and flexibility of the metal. Pure gold and silver are too malleable for jewellery and are often alloyed with other metals to increase their hardness. Titanium, a natural element, is extremely hard and has grades that vary in malleability, with Grade 1 being the softest and most malleable, perfect for earring findings and wire work.

Finally, hypoallergenic qualities are important for those with sensitive skin. Hypoallergenic jewellery is made from materials that are less likely to cause an allergic reaction, usually by limiting the amount of nickel or copper in the metal. Platinum, palladium, and titanium are considered hypoallergenic and are commonly used in medical implants due to their inert and biocompatible properties. Gold can also be hypoallergenic, but only if it is 24K gold, as lower karat gold is often mixed with other metals that can cause allergies.

Resizing rings

Making a Ring Smaller

To make a ring smaller, a jeweller will typically cut out a small portion of the band and then solder the ends back together to form a tighter circumference. This process involves carefully cutting out a small section of the metal, usually from the bottom of the band, and then joining the remaining ends with heat and a soldering agent. The ring is then cleaned and polished to remove any signs of the resizing process.

Alternatively, a jeweller may use a technique that involves bending the band inward using pliers or a ring clamp to create a tighter fit. This method does not require any cutting or soldering and is, therefore, less invasive. Another option is to use a ring guard or sizer, which can be inserted into the band to adjust the size without permanently altering the ring's structure.

Making a Ring Larger

To make a ring larger, a jeweller will typically cut a small portion out of the band and then add a piece of metal to expand the circumference. This process, known as ring shanking, involves carefully fitting the new piece of metal to the existing band, soldering it in place, and then smoothing and polishing the surface to blend the seams.

Another method for making a ring larger involves stretching the metal using a ring mandrel and a hammer or a hydraulic press or roller, depending on the type of ring and the extent of the resizing needed.

Rings That Cannot Be Resized

It is important to note that not all rings can be resized. Rings made of certain materials, such as titanium, cobalt, tungsten carbide, stainless steel, and rose gold, are prone to breakage or are otherwise difficult to work with during the resizing process. Non-metallic rings, such as those made of resin, crystal, or ceramic, also cannot be resized. In addition, plated metals and rings coated in enamel are not suitable for resizing as the process can cause the material to flake or damage the coating.

Furthermore, rings with stones that go all the way around the band, such as diamond eternity bands, cannot be resized as there is no bare metal to work with. Similarly, tension rings, which hold a gemstone in place with pressure from the two ends of the ring, typically cannot be resized and need to be custom-made to ensure a perfect fit.

Frequently asked questions