Rhiannon Hendricks
When it comes to wedding dresses, underlining can be a useful technique to elevate the final product. Underlining involves adding a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, creating a 2-ply fabric that enhances the overall structure and appearance. It can be particularly beneficial for adding weight and opacity to translucent or lightweight fabrics, such as lace or tulle, commonly used in wedding gowns. The choice of underlining fabric is essential, with options like cotton, silk, or muslin, providing added stability and a luxurious feel to the dress. Whether to underline or not depends on the gown's design and the desired level of opacity and weight. While underlining adds steps to the dressmaking process, it can be a valuable solution for creating a professional and polished wedding dress.
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What You'll Learn
What is underlining?
Underlining is a sewing technique that involves adding a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, creating a 2-ply fabric. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit attached to the main fabric in a few key areas, such as necklines and sleeves, to create a smooth surface and a clean finish. Underlining, on the other hand, is basted to the fashion fabric, allowing both layers to act as one. This technique can be used by beginners and on casual garments, and it is not limited to "advanced" makers or "couture" garments.
Underlining serves several purposes. It helps to add body, stability, and structure to loosely woven, lightweight, or drapey fabrics. It can also be used to make transparent fabrics opaque, change the colour of the fabric, and hide seam allowances, stitches, and other construction details. Additionally, underlining can absorb perspiration, reduce wrinkling, add warmth, and make a fabric look and feel more luxurious.
When deciding whether to underline a garment, it is important to consider the desired characteristics of the fabric. For example, if you want to add stiffness or warmth, you might choose a different underlining fabric than if you are primarily concerned with hiding inner construction details. It is also important to test how the underlining and fashion fabric work together by cutting out scraps of each and layering them to see how they drape and whether the underlining is visible through the fabric.
The process of underlining a garment involves cutting out the pattern pieces in both the main fabric and the underlining fabric. The pieces are then stitched together, typically with a long stitch by machine within the seam allowance. It is important to stitch up the centre of each dart before sewing the darts to prevent the layers from shifting. Once the underlining is secured to the main fabric in all key areas, they can be treated as one.
In the context of wedding dresses, underlining can be used to add structure, opacity, and weight to the gown, particularly if it is made of delicate or translucent fabric such as lace or tulle. It can also help to prevent wrinkling and hide inner construction details. Whether to use underlining, lining, or both depends on the design of the gown and personal preference. For example, a separate underskirt can be attached to the bodice to allow the skirt to move more gracefully, while the bodice may be lined, underlined, or both depending on the desired effect.
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$59.97
Why use underlining?
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric that is treated as one with the main fabric. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few key areas. Underlining can be used to solve various sewing problems and give a beautiful body to the garment. Here are some reasons why you may want to use underlining:
- To add structure and stability: Underlining can add warmth, stability and body to soft and supple fabrics. For example, flannelette underlining can be used to add body and stability to the fronts and back of a silk jacket.
- To hide seam allowances: Underlining can be used to hide seam allowances that may show through translucent or transparent fabrics, such as tulle or lace.
- To increase opacity: Underlining can make a translucent fabric become opaque, providing modesty and preventing underwear from showing through.
- To add weight: Underlining can provide heft to light, flimsy, or loosely woven fabrics, which can be especially useful for wedding gowns to prevent the skirt from clinging to the body.
- To improve the finish: Underlining can help create a professional-looking garment by providing a smooth surface for stitching hems, button plackets, and facings. Hand basting stitches are often used to attach the underlining as they are soft and forgiving, allowing for adjustments to be made easily.
- To increase durability: Underlining can strengthen fashion fabric and improve its durability. For example, cotton batiste can be used to stabilise lightweight wool crepe.
- To reduce wrinkling: Using both an underlining and a lining can help to prevent a dress from wrinkling during long periods of wear.
When deciding whether to use underlining, it is important to consider the design of the gown, the type of fabric, and the desired level of opacity, weight, and stability. In some cases, a lining may be a better option, as it can be easier to attach and may not add as much bulk to the garment.
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What are the best fabrics for underlining?
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, creating a 2-ply fabric. It is different from lining, which is attached to the main fabric in a few key areas, whereas underlining is treated as one with the main fabric. The highest-quality dresses are both underlined and lined. Underlining can provide weight to light, flimsy, or loosely woven fabrics, and it can make a translucent fabric opaque. It can also prevent pockets or pressed darts from showing through the skirt.
When choosing a fabric for underlining, it is important to consider the design of the gown and the time of year or climate. For example, a heavy satin bridal gown could make a bride uncomfortable during summer nuptials, while an airy silk sheath might not be warm enough for a winter wedding.
Some popular fabrics for wedding dresses include silk, chiffon, brocade, damask, and dotted Swiss. Silk is a lightweight and breathable fabric that can be used for flowing styles, while chiffon, made from silk or rayon, is a sheer and transparent fabric often used as an overlay or accent detail. Brocade, which can be made from silk or synthetic fibers, is distinguished by its raised designs, while damask is a lighter-weight fabric with a similar pattern. Dotted Swiss is a lightweight and breathable fabric made from muslin, featuring evenly dispersed dotted motifs.
When choosing a fabric for underlining, it is important to select a fabric that will work well with the main fabric. For example, using a sturdy quilting cotton to underline a silk fabric would make it thicker and stiffer, which may not be the desired effect.
Some specific examples of fabrics that can be used for underlining include cotton batiste, cotton sateen, and muslin. In one case, a user sewing a silk satin wedding gown was advised to use a cotton batiste for underlining. The user was instructed to lay out the flat silk skirt panels onto the cotton underlining (wrong sides together), pin them together, and then hand-stitch the two fabrics together just outside the stitch lines. In another example, a user underlined a cotton sateen dress with muslin, which served as a mockup dress.
In addition to the choice of fabric, there are also some techniques to consider when underlining a garment. For example, when underlining a skirt, it is recommended to stitch up the centre of each dart before sewing the darts to prevent the layers from moving out of place. Additionally, when basting the two fabrics together, it is best to baste just outside the stitch line to leave the basting stitches hidden inside the garment.
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How to sew an underlining
Underlining a wedding dress can be a great way to add structure, weight, and opacity to the garment. It is a technique that can be used by beginners and advanced sewists alike, and it can elevate the final product to look more professional and luxurious.
To sew an underlining, you will need to first select an appropriate fabric. Muslin is a popular choice because it is inexpensive, strong, opaque, and easy to work with. It is important to select an underlining fabric that will complement your main fabric. For instance, a sturdy quilting cotton would not work well with a delicate silk satin because it would make the garment thicker and stiffer.
Next, you will need to cut your fabric. If you are making a mockup dress for fittings, you can use the mockup as your underlining fabric. Simply mark any corrections needed onto the mockup, take it apart, and use the pieces as patterns for your underlining fabric. Lay your underlining fabric flat and place your main fabric on top, ensuring that all grainlines match. Pin the fabrics together and cut them out.
Now, you are ready to begin sewing. It is recommended to hand-stitch the underlining and main fabric together, as this gives you more control and allows for adjustments. Machine stitches can leave ridges in some fabrics and may be more time-consuming if adjustments are needed. When stitching, be sure to keep your stitches within the dart and do not go past the tip. Once you have secured your underlining to your main fabric in all the key areas, you can treat them as one.
Finally, remember that underlining is not necessary for all areas of a garment. For instance, you may choose to leave the sleeve flounce without underlining to preserve a light drape. Additionally, when underlining a skirt, consider leaving the underlining free-hanging at the hem to prevent unsightly bunching.
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Underlining vs lining
When it comes to creating a wedding dress, underlining and lining are two important techniques that can be used to achieve different effects. Whether you choose to underline, line, or do both, depends on the design of your gown, the type of fabric you're using, and the overall look and feel you want to create.
Underlining is a technique where a layer of fabric is added underneath the main fabric, creating a 2-ply fabric. The two fabrics are treated as one, giving the garment a luxurious feel and providing weight and opacity. For example, underlining can be used to prevent the pocket bag from showing through the skirt or to avoid a white circle around the neckline. It also adds modesty by preventing visible underwear. However, underlining can add bulk to the garment and may not be suitable for certain design elements, such as sleeve flounces that require a light drape.
Lining, on the other hand, is a separate unit that is attached to the main fabric in key areas. It is generally easier to work with than underlining as it does not need to be attached around all edges. A lining can be used to protect the skin from scratchy seam allowances and boning, and it can also function as a slip. In the 19th century, separate linings were not commonly used, as exposing the seams made alterations easier. However, over time, linings became popular as they gave a more finished look and indicated a higher-quality garment.
The highest-quality dresses often feature both underlining and lining. For example, a dress may have an underlined bodice with a separate lining to protect the skin. Additionally, a lining can be used in conjunction with underlining to prevent wrinkling and perspiration stains.
When deciding whether to underline, line, or do both, it's important to consider the time and fabric required. Underlining can be more fabric-intensive and time-consuming, so it should only be done where necessary. Additionally, the choice of fabric for underlining is crucial, as it should complement the main fabric without adding unwanted thickness or stiffness.
In summary, underlining and lining serve different purposes in wedding dress construction. Underlining creates a unified fabric, adds weight and opacity, and enhances the overall feel of the garment. Lining, on the other hand, is a separate unit that protects the skin, adds comfort, and gives a finished look to the dress. The decision to underline, line, or do both depends on the specific design, fabric choices, and desired effects for your wedding dress.
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Frequently asked questions
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath your main fabric, that you treat as one with the main. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main in a few areas.
Underlining your wedding dress can add structure and make it feel more luxurious. It can also help to make a translucent fabric opaque, and prevent underwear from being visible. Additionally, it can help to keep your dress from wrinkling throughout the day.
Natural fiber fabrics like cotton, silk, or muslin are good choices for underlining. Muslin is inexpensive, strong, and easy to work with. Cotton batiste is also a good option for stabilizing lightweight fabrics.
The highest-quality dresses are both underlined and lined. However, whether or not you choose to do both is up to you. Lining is generally easier since it doesn't need to be attached all around the edges. You can also use a slip as a lining.
