Flash Photography: Enhancing Or Ruining Your Wedding Day?

Flash photography is a common technique used by photographers to capture clear and vibrant images, especially in low-light conditions. When it comes to wedding photography, the use of flash is a topic of debate among professionals. Some photographers prefer to avoid using flash during the wedding ceremony out of respect for the couple and guests, opting for natural light or high ISO settings instead. Others argue that flash is essential to capture high-quality photographs, especially in dimly lit venues. Ultimately, the decision to use flash during a wedding depends on various factors, including the lighting conditions, venue constraints, and the photographer's style and preference.

On-camera speedlight

When using an on-camera speedlight, it's important to remember to angle the flash head slightly sideways at a 45-degree angle to get a directional bounce. If there is ample light, you may want to bounce the light upwards to create a more even spread of light, but be aware that this can cause deep shadows under the eyes and chins. If there is a lot of light, you can point the flash head backward to get a bit of fill light on people's faces. The only time you should point the flash head straight at the subject is when the scene is completely backlit or if you are going for a silhouette.

It is also crucial to remember not to have the flash pointing downwards, as this can create "horror lighting". This happens when you change the orientation of your camera from landscape to portrait, and the flash goes from pointing sideways to pointing at the floor.

When using an on-camera speedlight, you can also use a bounce card to soften the light. This will help you avoid harsh flash and create a more uniform exposure.

Additionally, when shooting with an on-camera speedlight, it is recommended to use the ETTL (Evaluative Through the Lens Metering) mode if you are unsure of what you are doing. This mode will automatically figure out how much power the flash needs based on your camera's metering.

Finally, remember that the higher the power of your speedlight, the more flash output and energy used, which will increase your recharge time and drain your batteries faster.

Off-camera speedlight

Equipment

For off-camera speedlight, you will need a flash unit, such as a speedlight, and a way to trigger the flash remotely. You can use transceivers or transmitters/receivers that work with radio waves, allowing you to control multiple flash units from a distance. Nowadays, transceivers are more popular as they can transmit and receive signals.

Setup

Designate one flash as the master and any additional flashes as slaves. The master flash will control the power settings of the slave flashes. You can also set up flash groups to control the power of each group of flashes. This allows for more precise control over your lighting setup.

Placement

For family portraits and group shots, consider using two flashes, with one flash firing more light to create a brighter and more dramatic look, while the other flash fills in the shadows. This technique can also help balance a bright background, such as a beach. When shooting at night, place the flash to the side or behind the couple to create a backlit effect. Direct the flash towards the couple's backs to avoid lens flare.

Creative Techniques

Use off-camera speedlight to add creative flair to your photos. During the "getting ready" portion of the day, point your flash at an adjacent wall to create a beautiful side light. For dramatic effects, angle the flash to create shadows and add depth to your portraits. You can also place the flash behind your subjects to create sunbursts and interesting lighting effects, especially during the day.

Detail Shots

Dance Floor Shots

For dance floor photos, you can use two flashes: one bounced off the ceiling to fill in light and the other placed on the side of the dance floor as the main light source. This will create dramatic lighting effects while maintaining the ambiance of the dance floor.

Dragging the shutter

Shutter drag, also known as motion blur, is a photography technique that can transform ordinary photos into vibrant, dynamic images. It adds a touch of whimsy and energy to your shots, making it perfect for capturing the festive atmosphere of a wedding dance floor.

To achieve the shutter drag effect, you need to shoot at a very low shutter speed, such as 1/10th of a second. This slow shutter speed allows you to capture the ambient light and create light trails in the background of your image. While the shutter is open, you can also move the camera to create funky light effects.

• Use a camera with a hot shoe and manual mode.
• Attach a wide-angle lens (24mm-35mm is recommended).
• Set your ISO to around 800-1000, adjusting as needed for the ambient light in the room. A higher ISO will result in more ambient background light, while a lower ISO will create a darker, more contrasting look.
• Set a low shutter speed. A good starting point is around 1/6th of a second. The longer the shutter is open, the longer the light trails will be. However, be careful not to go over 1 second for reception shots, as too much exposure can muddy the photo.
• Choose your flash sync setting. Front curtain sync will fire the flash as soon as the shutter opens, freezing your subject. Rear curtain sync fires the flash at the end of the exposure, creating a wilder effect.
• Set your aperture to a high value, such as f16, to achieve super crisp light trails. You can open up to f14/f12 if you want brighter trails.
• Set your flash to manual or TTL. TTL (through-the-lens metering) is a good starting point if you're unsure, as it automatically figures out the power needed based on your camera metering.
• If your flash has a zoom function, set it to the highest number possible to create a more focused beam of light.
• Point the flash directly at your subject without any diffusers.
• Focus on your subject and press the shutter button. After the flash goes off, move the camera in any direction you like—up, down, spin it around, or give it a twist. Check the image, and adjust as needed.

Some additional tips for troubleshooting and refining your technique:

• If you're not getting enough light trails, try lowering your shutter speed or adjusting your camera to capture light from nearby sources.
• If your image is a messy blur, try shortening your shutter speed or lowering your ISO.
• If your subject is overexposed, lower your flash power.
• For the best-defined trails, use string lights or chandeliers as your light source. Aim your camera towards these lights to capture their effects.
• If you're having trouble focusing in a dark reception area, turn on your focus assist beam.
• Avoid blasting your subjects in the face with flash, especially if they're looking directly at the camera.
• Shutter drag works well in dark spaces lit mostly by string lights or fairy lights.

Direct flash

Managing Contrast and Highlights

The high-contrast look of direct flash can be enhanced by shooting in monochrome. However, it's important to avoid overblown highlights and maintain detail in the brightest areas of the image.

Positioning and Angles

Experiment with the angle of the flash to avoid unflattering shadows and red-eye effects. For portrait shots, try tilting the flash slightly to the side. Play with the flash's position relative to the lens axis to achieve different effects, such as wrapping the light around the subject or creating a classic 'pop' look.

Balancing the Environment

Managing Harsh Lighting

To soften the light and reduce unflattering shadows, adjust the flash power, angle, and distance from the subject.

Capturing Genuine Emotions

Dealing with Reflections and Glare

Use diffusers, modifiers, and adjust settings to minimize reflections and glare from shiny surfaces like wedding rings, mirrors, or glass.

Adapting to Changing Environments

Weddings offer dynamic lighting scenarios, from dimly lit receptions to bright outdoor ceremonies. Be adaptable, creative, and quick-thinking to capture memorable shots that tell the story of the day.

Gear Recommendations

• A high-powered flash unit with adjustable intensity and spread.
• A reliable flash trigger system that syncs with your camera, especially when using multiple off-camera flashes.
• A sturdy mount or stand for your flash, adaptable to various shooting environments.

Camera Settings

• Shoot in manual mode for full control over exposure.
• Set the aperture based on the desired depth of field.
• Keep the shutter speed at or below the camera's sync speed to avoid dark portions in the image.
• Maintain a low ISO setting to minimize noise.

Bounce flash

How to bounce flash:

• Step 1: Pick the right flash. You will need a hot shoe flashgun, one that allows you to both tilt and swivel the head.
• Step 2: Pick your subject and identify all bounceable surfaces. Identify your subject, which might be an individual, a couple, a group, or a room. Then, determine your available bounce surfaces, including walls, ceilings, or even white vehicles.
• Step 3: Set the perfect bounce angle. For portrait photography, angled front/sidelight is generally best, so you might point your flash toward a wall off to the right or left. That way, you can achieve nice shadows and a three-dimensional subject.
• Step 4: Fire the flash. Take a shot or two (but don’t be afraid to make adjustments based on feedback!). Remember to readjust your flash direction if you switch between portrait and landscape orientation (and vice versa).

When to use bounce flash:

Bounced light looks great when you have a nearby ceiling or wall (preferably white, so there is no colour cast to the light). You can bounce a flash both indoors and outdoors, though bouncing outdoors can be tough as you need a surface to do the bouncing.

When not to use bounce flash:

Tips for bounce flash:

• Look for light-coloured walls. Light-coloured walls reflect almost all of the light back to the scene, whereas a dark-coloured wall will absorb most of the light and impart its own characteristic to the light, throwing off your white balance.
• Bounce in the right direction. Point at a wall or ceiling that faces toward your subject's face so the light reaches them and doesn't simply disappear.
• Use TTL, but compensate. Use TTL for your exposures, but be prepared to bump up the exposures by a stop or more depending on the size of the room and the particular situation.
• Choose a higher ISO. It's a balance between how hard you want your flash to work and how much grain you can accept.

Frequently asked questions