Deborah Chan
Wedding dresses are often made with alterations in mind, so it is possible to make your wedding dress bigger. Wedding dresses usually have larger seam allowances, so they can be let out to make the dress bigger. This is the simplest option if your dress only needs to be a little bigger. If there isn't enough fabric to let out, discreet panels can be added to the sides of the dress to make it bigger. However, finding a piece of fabric that perfectly matches the dress can be difficult. Another option is to restyle the back of the dress, for example, by replacing a zip with a lace-up corset back.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ease of making a wedding dress bigger | Relatively straightforward to make a dress 1-2 sizes bigger; making it bigger by more than that is more tricky |
| How to make a wedding dress bigger | Using fabric from inside the seams; adding fabric panels; replacing a zip with a lace-up corset; restyling the back of the dress |
| When to get a wedding dress altered | Most seamstresses recommend doing this about three months before the wedding |
| Cost | Can be expensive, e.g. $500 to make a plain satin bodice bigger |
| Wedding dress sizes | Wedding dresses are notoriously small, so you will likely need to go at least one dress size up from your normal size |
| Wedding dress alterations | Nearly every wedding dress needs alterations to fit the bride's body perfectly |
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What You'll Learn
Wedding dress alterations: how to make your dress bigger
Wedding dress alterations are a crucial step in ensuring that your gown fits you perfectly and makes you feel your most beautiful on your special day. While it is generally easier to take in a wedding dress, there are several methods to make your dress bigger if needed. Here are some tips on how to go about it:
Letting Out the Seams
One option for making your wedding dress bigger is to "let out" the seams. Wedding dresses often have extra fabric in the seam allowances, allowing them to be let out by around 1-2 cm. This method is ideal if you only need a little extra room and want to avoid significant alterations. However, it may not be suitable for delicate fabrics as the stitch marks from the original seams may show.
Adding Fabric Panels
If there isn't enough fabric to let out the seams, discreet fabric panels can be added to the sides of the dress to increase its size. The challenge here is finding fabric that perfectly matches the dress. Fabric from the hem can be used if the dress is also being shortened; otherwise, fabric from the original designer or a similar supplier may be needed.
Restyling the Back
Another option to address a snug-fitting dress is to restyle the back. This works well if the bust and waist are too tight but the hips fit comfortably. Lowering the back or creating a keyhole back can provide a more comfortable fit. Replacing a zipper with a lace-up corset back can also add significant room to the dress.
Modesty Panels
If your dress already has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel can be added to provide more coverage and flexibility in sizing. This option is adjustable, ensuring that any weight fluctuations in the lead-up to the wedding can be easily accommodated.
Timing and Cost Considerations
It is recommended to wait until about three months before the wedding to begin alterations. While simple adjustments can be made for a relatively low cost, extensive alterations or customisations can be more expensive and time-consuming. It is important to discuss your desired changes and budget with a professional seamstress to ensure the best outcome.
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Letting out a dress: using fabric from inside the seams
Wedding dresses can be made bigger by "letting out" the dress, which involves using the extra fabric from inside the seams. Wedding dresses, formal gowns, and many other dresses will have extra material in the seam allowances, which means they can be let out by around 1-2 cm without any structural changes. This method is best suited when the dress needs to be made only a little bigger.
To let out a dress, first, turn the dress inside out and examine the side seams to ensure there is enough extra fabric to let the dress out. Then, try on the dress and use a marking pen to mark the point where it starts to get tight and where it starts to fit more comfortably. Next, take off the dress and use a seam ripper to remove the seam at one of the sides, starting at the top mark and ending at the bottom mark. If the dress has an enclosed seam, the outer seam remains intact, and there is no need to sew it up. However, if the dress has an extra amount of folded fabric, it will need to be sewn back up.
It is important to note that stitch marks from the original seam lines may be visible on delicate fabrics, but there are ways to address this issue. Additionally, the colour of the fabric in the seam may differ from the rest of the dress, making it obvious that it has been let out. When buying a second-hand wedding dress, it is essential to consider that the previous owner may have trimmed the extra seam allowance during their alterations.
If there isn't enough fabric to let out the dress, discreet panels can be added to make it bigger. However, finding a piece of fabric that perfectly matches the dress can be challenging. Fabric from the hem can be used if the dress is being shortened, or fabric may need to be sourced from a supplier. Restyling the back of the dress is another option to consider when it is too small. Lowering the back or creating a keyhole back can provide a more comfortable fit. Additionally, replacing a zip with a lace-up corset can add extra room to the dress.
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Adding panels: what to do when there isn't enough fabric
When there isn't enough fabric to let out a wedding dress, discreet panels can be added to make the dress bigger. The difficulty here is finding a piece of fabric that perfectly matches the dress. Fabric from the hem can be used if the dress is to be shortened, otherwise, fabric must be sourced from a supplier. Panels can be added to the sides or back of the dress to make it bigger. It is important to choose a fabric panel that closely matches the colour and texture of the dress to maintain a seamless appearance. First, carefully seam rip the back or side seams of the dress where you plan to insert the fabric panel. Make sure to leave enough seam allowance on each side to sew back together with the new fabric panel. Measure the opened seam and cut a fabric panel with the same length, adding seam allowances on both edges.
Fabric can be added to a dress to make it bigger while also adding a special touch. It is important to pick a fabric that complements what the dress is made of and how it looks. Evaluate the seams to identify existing seams in the dress where additional fabric can be seamlessly integrated. Choose a matching fabric to insert panels inconspicuously in side seams or along the back zipper.
If the bodice is made of panels, a good seamstress can simply add another panel or two. However, fabric matching may be an issue. At the same time, the fabric doesn't necessarily need to match to still look good. If the dress already has a lace-up back, a wider modesty panel is sometimes all that is needed to solve the problem of a dress being too small. A modesty panel sits underneath the lacing, covering the entire back to just below the hip. This type of fastening is adjustable to fit your figure, which means that if you gain or lose weight in the lead-up to the wedding, it's not a problem.
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Restyling the back: lowering the back or creating a keyhole
If your wedding dress is feeling a bit snug, restyling the back is a great option to consider. This works well when a dress is too tight around the bust and waist but fits well at the hips. Two ways to do this are by lowering the back or creating a keyhole back.
Lowering the back can make the dress fit more comfortably. This option is perfect for brides who want to show off their backs while keeping it elegant and not too daring.
Another option is to create a keyhole back by removing some fabric from the back of the dress. This style features a small cutout in the back, showcasing a delicate and refined design that can vary in shape and size. The keyhole back is perfect for brides who want to show off a little skin while still keeping it elegant and sophisticated. It is often paired with high necklines like mock necks, boat necks, or V-necklines, and is commonly found in column, sheath, mermaid, or fit-and-flare silhouettes.
When it comes to the fabric, keyhole back styles are usually designed in lace or sleek fabrics like crepe or stretch satin. However, finding a piece of fabric that perfectly matches the dress can be challenging. Fabric from the hem can be used if the dress is being shortened, or fabric may need to be sourced from a supplier.
Restyling the back of a wedding dress is a creative way to add extra room to the dress, ensuring a comfortable fit for your special day.
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Customisations: adding straps, sleeves, or a train
Adding straps, sleeves, or a train to your wedding dress is a great way to customise it and make it your own. These alterations can transform the look of your dress and give it a bespoke touch.
Adding Straps
If you've bought a strapless dress but feel you might need the support of straps, don't worry—adding straps is a relatively easy alteration that can be done by a skilled seamstress. You can order matching fabric from the dress designer or use excess material from the hem of your dress to create the straps. This alteration can also be done for purely aesthetic reasons if you feel it would better suit your vision.
Adding Sleeves
Adding sleeves to your wedding dress is a common alteration that most seamstresses will be comfortable executing. Whether you want the added coverage for modesty or simply prefer the look of sleeves, there are many options to consider. These include off-the-shoulder, illusion, or detachable sleeves. The neckline of your dress will largely determine what kind of sleeves can be added. For example, adding a full set-in long sleeve to a strapless dress may require building up the neckline first. Consult with your seamstress to narrow down the types of sleeves that will work best with your dress, and remember to schedule your first session a few months in advance to allow time for multiple fittings if necessary.
Adding a Train
If you want to add a train to your wedding dress, this may be possible depending on the style and amount of fabric available. Consult with a trusted seamstress to discuss your vision and explore the options available. They will be able to guide you on what alterations can be made to achieve your desired look.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, it is possible to get your wedding dress made bigger. Wedding dresses usually have extra fabric in the seam allowances, which means they can be let out by up to 1 inch without any structural changes.
If there isn't enough fabric to let out, discreet panels can be added to make the dress bigger. Fabric from the hem can be used, or new fabric can be sourced from a supplier.
Restyling the back of the dress is another option. This works well if the dress is too tight around the bust and waist but fits well at the hips. Lowering the back or creating a keyhole back can provide a more comfortable fit. Replacing a zip with a lace-up corset back can also add extra room.
It is recommended to start the alteration process about three months before your wedding. The first appointment will be the longest, and subsequent fittings will be shorter, lasting around 30 minutes.
On average, you can expect to attend two to three fittings for your wedding dress alterations. The number of fittings will depend on the extent of the changes and the style and size of the original dress.
