Deborah Chan
Wedding dress trains have been a symbol of elegance and class since medieval times, and they continue to be a popular choice for brides today. While some modern dresses do away with the train, many brides still opt for this traditional feature. However, the train can be a challenging element to manage, especially when it comes to packing, bustling, or shortening the dress. In this discussion, we will explore the role of a seamstress in altering a wedding dress train, including the various techniques they can employ to ensure the bride's comfort and satisfaction on their big day.
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What You'll Learn
Wedding dress trains: a sign of wealth
Wedding dress trains have been used to indicate wealth and social status since medieval times. The longer the train, the wealthier the family, and the closer they were to the royal family. Trains were an outward sign of wealth because they are an extra piece of fabric that serves no practical function and were therefore seen as elaborate.
Today, wedding dresses are usually made with trains because they add formality and fluidity to dresses and give the illusion that the wearer is taller as the fabric trails behind. Trains are purely decorative and are considered one of the most iconic, defining elements of a bridal gown.
There are several types of wedding dress trains, from the subtle sweep to the grand cathedral. The sweep train is the shortest wedding train length, with the fabric extending only a few inches from the bottom hem of the gown. This type of train is a sensible choice for brides who plan to be moving around a lot or having an outdoor wedding. The court train is the second-shortest train, extending about one foot out from the bottom of the gown. It's a perfect shorter train option if you want the look of a traditional wedding dress without the hassle.
The chapel train is one of the most popular lengths, extending 3 to 4 feet behind the bride. It's a timeless yet understated option that adds a certain amount of drama to a wedding dress. The semi-cathedral train is slightly more formal than the chapel train, extending 4 to 5 feet from the waist. It gives the same dramatic effect as a long wedding dress train without the maintenance.
The cathedral train is a grand option for a formal venue, often extending around 22 inches or more. Finally, the royal train is the longest of the wedding dress trains, generally reaching about 300cm or 10 feet in length.
While there are no rules for how long a wedding dress train should be, it's important to consider the venue and style of the wedding when choosing the length. For example, a sweep train might be more suitable for an outdoor wedding, while a cathedral train might be better suited to a formal indoor venue.
Regardless of the length, a skilled seamstress can usually shorten a wedding dress train or add a bustle to make it easier for the bride to move around. A bustle is a series of hooks, buttons, or ribbons that lift the train, allowing the bride to have a long train for the ceremony and a shorter or no train later in the day.
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The bustle: a series of hooks, buttons or ribbons
Wedding dress trains have been around since medieval times and were initially a sign of wealth. Today, they add formality and fluidity to dresses and give the illusion that the wearer is taller. However, many brides are concerned about the practicalities of having one. This is where a bustle comes in—it is a series of hooks, buttons, or ribbons that lift and secure the train of a wedding dress, allowing the bride to move more freely and comfortably.
There are different styles of bustles, ranging from simple to complex. The most common styles are the American bustle or over bustle, where the train is gathered up and fastened over the rest of the skirt, and the ballroom bustle, where the train is folded beneath the skirt and fastened at several points so it is completely hidden. Another option is the underbustle, also known as a French bustle, where the train is lifted from underneath the gown, creating an elegant gathered look. The train is secured with hooks or ribbons to discreet points on the underskirt or lining.
A royal bustle can be simple or elaborate. If the bride wants a single pickup point, only one hook and eyelet are needed to lift the train. However, for a more detailed look, multiple pickup points can be added down and across the back. This style is also known as the Victorian bustle as the folds add more dimension to the silhouette.
When deciding on a bustle, it is important to consider the style and design of the dress. Most wedding dresses don't come with bustles, so they are often added during the alterations process. A seamstress will assess the gown and discuss the bustle options. They will determine the most suitable style and create the bustle based on the specific dress. The time required to bustle a wedding dress can vary depending on the dress's complexity and the chosen bustle style. On average, it takes 5-15 minutes to properly secure the bustle.
It is recommended to schedule time to fasten the bustle on the wedding day. It is also important to teach someone how to do it before the big day. This can be a trusted individual, usually a bridesmaid or family member, who attends the final alterations appointment to get hands-on practice.
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Removing the netting layers
Removing netting layers from a wedding dress can help reduce volume and create a more streamlined silhouette. The process depends on the dress's construction and fabric.
Firstly, identify the horsehair layer and determine how much structure should be reduced. Carefully cut or reshape it to achieve a softer drape. Reattach or hem the edges to maintain a polished finish.
If your wedding dress has excess underskirts made from heavy fabric or stiff netting, you might need to remove entire layers. This involves examining how the underlayers are attached to the bodice or outer skirt and removing them entirely without affecting the gown's balance. Ensure that the outer fabric still hangs smoothly without the removed layers.
Some dresses incorporate layers for structural support, and removing them may change the dress's overall drape and movement. Analyze whether the fabric still falls naturally without the extra layers. Removing too many layers can alter the dress's original silhouette. Make gradual changes and reassess how the gown looks after each adjustment.
One common method is to remove the petticoat layers. If your dress has built-in crinoline, carefully detach a few layers using a seam ripper or scissors while ensuring the remaining structure is intact.
Another approach is trimming tulle or organza layers by selectively cutting excess fabric at the seams or hem to achieve the desired fullness.
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Shortening the front of a wedding dress
Wedding dresses are often long and flowing, but sometimes a bride may want to shorten only the front of her dress to create a more unique look. There are several ways to shorten the front of a wedding dress, and each method will produce a different result.
One way to shorten the front of a wedding dress is to cut off the excess fabric. This will give the dress a shorter, more cropped look in the front. This method is permanent, so it is important to be certain about the desired length before cutting. It is critical not to tear too tightly at the stitches or to cut too quickly. One way to do this is to fold the dress in half and cut the fabric that will be folded up. This will ensure that the front and back of the dress remain even in length.
Another way to shorten the front of a wedding dress is to fold or pleat the excess fabric. This technique can be more difficult to execute, but it will give the dress a more finished look. This method can be achieved by measuring the desired length and replacing the hem with a new one, either by hand or by using a sewing machine.
If you are unsure about how to shorten the front of your wedding dress, it is always best to consult a professional seamstress or tailor. They will be able to advise you on the best method for your specific dress and help you achieve the look you are going for while ensuring that your dress fits properly.
Additionally, there are other options to consider if you want to shorten your train temporarily for convenience or practicality. One option is to use a wedding dress bustle, which is a series of hooks, buttons, or ribbons that lift the train, allowing the bride to move around more easily. This way, you can have a long train for the ceremony and a shorter or no train later in the day. There are different styles of bustles, such as the American bustle or the ballroom bustle, and a professional seamstress can help you choose and create the best option for your dress.
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Different types of bustles
Wedding dress trains have been around since medieval times and were initially a sign of wealth. Today, they add formality and fluidity to dresses and give the illusion that the wearer is taller. However, they can be a hindrance to the bride's movement, especially on the dance floor. This is where a seamstress comes in—they can shorten the train or add a bustle to the wedding dress. A bustle is a series of hooks, buttons, or ribbons that lift the train, allowing the bride to move around comfortably.
- American Bustle or Over Bustle: This is a classic style where the outside of the train is secured near the waistline, forming a cascading effect. It works with many types of bridal gown silhouettes, including A-line, ball gown, and mermaid, but is especially beautiful with a cathedral train. The train is gathered up and fastened over the rest of the skirt.
- French Bustle or Under Bustle: This bustle is perfect for lace and satin gowns with a natural waistline. It is the reverse of the American bustle, as hooks are used to pick up the train and tuck it under the silhouette of the gown. Ribbons may also be attached to connect and secure the fabric, creating multiple pick-up points for extra flair. This bustle is best suited for dresses with minimal trains.
- Ballroom Bustle: This style gives the illusion of no bustle at all. The train of the dress flips under the fabric and is pinned into itself, creating the appearance of a floor-length gown with an even fuller bottom due to the extra fabric attached underneath.
- Side Sling or Wrist Loop: This asymmetrical design is surprisingly easy to implement and can add a unique touch to your gown. Instead of attaching the train to hooks or buttons, it is attached to your wrist, allowing you to physically lift it yourself. This option works best with simple, lightweight dresses with modest trains, as heavy fabric or full skirts can be burdensome.
It's important to note that there isn't a one-size-fits-all bustle, and the right style will depend on the bride's height and the gown's style. A skilled seamstress will be able to advise on the best option and make the necessary alterations.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, a skilled seamstress will be able to shorten your wedding dress train. They will either cut the lace, or remove and move and re-sew.
There are a few different ways to shorten a wedding dress train. One way is to cut off the excess fabric, giving the dress a cropped look in the front. Another way is to fold or pleat the excess fabric, creating a more finished look. You can also opt for a wedding dress bustle, which lifts the train to allow the bride to move around comfortably.
The two most common styles are the American bustle or over bustle, where the train is gathered and fastened over the rest of the skirt, and the Ballroom bustle, where the train is folded and hidden beneath the skirt. Other types of bustles include the French bustle, which complements a mermaid or trumpet-shaped dress, and the natural bustle, which uses hooks and eyes to create an invisible look.
When looking for a seamstress, consider using Yelp to find someone reasonably priced with a good reputation. You can also ask your local alterations shop if they offer this service, especially if you have a specific material or style of dress in mind.
